Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Today Jean Paul Gaultier presented the future. His runway show was 3D! All guests attending the show (including singer Kelly Rowland) got special 3D glasses to watch the special effects JPG had added to his show.

JPG’s models were as diverse as they could be: pale, bronzed, bearded, shaved, blond hair, brown hair. A few had glasses on and some had afros. Some were young, others looked older. Even a blond haired girl popped up twice at the show.

The clothes for spring were like the models: a little bit of everything. They seemed to be Moroccan inspired so we saw some see-through fabrics and a few caftan-like blouses. The set of the show was a steamy hammam.

At first JPG showed some transparent black. Two tops were closed with laces at the front. Then some beige looks came buy; jackets with lots of pockets and big scarves (for a cold summer night?). Some printed creations followed. Those prints looked as if they were made out of paint splatters. The models wore a strange kind of bonnet to go with the printed outfits.

To stick with the Moroccan feeling JPG had added some embroideries to his blouses matched with pants that were tight at the bottom and loose around the crotch. We then saw an overall, a suit jacket matched with shorts, a skirt, one black caftan that reached the floor and a see-through black one-piece outfit.

Though JPG mostly used brown, black, beige and white in this collection, he did add some cobalt blue towards the end. Not to speak of the finale, when models entered the runway in bright, shiny, printed designs that came to live with 3D glasses.

The collection maybe was a bit messy, but there were some good items in it. And the fact that JPG was the first designer to use 3D in his collection is worth some extra credits too.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Classic is the perfect term to describe Yamamoto’s new collection. The designer seemed to have taken his inspiration from the eighteenth century when men wore puff pants, knee stockings, large bows, hats and buckled shoes.

Yamamoto also designed a few classic floral prints in beautiful warm colors. He used those for a few loose-fitting suits with pants that showed just a little bit of leg.

Like many other big shows we’ve seen this past week, Yamamoto clothes looked way to hot to wear on a sunny day too. There were a lot of suits; printed and striped, black & white. Long shirts – almost dresses – were worn underneath them.

In between the mix ‘n match outfits there suddenly were four outfits in one color. One model was dressed in white from head to toe. Three other models wore only green, orange or blue, which formed a big contrast to their pale faces.

Some nice details in this collection were the playful emblems on several jackets, a ruffled shirt and all kinds of classic hats. On top of that the models wearing fake moustaches, beards and powdered English wigs added an extra special feeling to the show.

Overall Yamamoto showed some great classic style with this collection and we sure enjoyed travelling back in time with him.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The overall message this season is redefining contemporary dressing. And Viktor & Rolf  practice this message since they started designing menswear. Their hero for the summercollection 2011 was a 1940’s moviestar on vacation at Biarritz. In his suitcase he got a streamlined suit with elongated jackets and wider lapels – sometimes in contrasting colors, piped or with sequins -,  short sleeved sweaters, a bermuda and leather sandals.

Viktor & Rolf chose typical summer fabrics like seersucker and a madras-check. Colors were kept light, as in white, chocolate-brown, blue and gray. Patent-leather shoes in blue, black and white contrasted with the beige and black/blue.

Singer/performer La Roux (aka Elly Jackson) appeared as their special guest at the Monsieur -show. Viktor & Rolf: “When we first saw La Roux on TV, we were immediately drawn to her.  We were intrigued by the way she plays with expectations about gender and we love her authentic way of dressing.  Her boyish attitude mixed with her high-pitched voice creates a great contradiction.  We had this vision to dress her in our Monsieur line, but made to measure for her and that’s what we’ve done: a blue silk jacket with a black top and black tuxedo pants.  We consider it menswear, adapted to a woman.”

La Roux said “I was thrilled to be asked to play at Viktor & Rolf’s Paris show. I’m a very big fan of theirs and for me it’s a natural fit, my music and their style. I look forward to future collaborations with them.” La Roux performed an exclusive acoustic set for the designers and their audience.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Right before the show Rick Owens was quietly drinking his espresso and watched everybody getting ready. Yet once the show started calm and quiet weren’t words that came to mind anymore. The music was extremely loud and the models seemed to be almost running on the catwalk as if the end of the world was near…

Like the hair of the male models, the silhouette of this collection was long. Jackets, blouses and tops all often reached the models’ knees (how summery!). Besides the boys wore long leather boots and some of them worked a long headband.

For this collection Owens again used his favourite shades: black & white, with one or two brown items. It matched to show area (a big black room) and the special effect of the show (white smoke was blown in the air).

Apart from the long autumn-like jackets Owens introduced a few sleeveless versions. Several of those were made out of leather. And while this season many brands opted for the double breasted jackets, Owens made his with zippers at the front.

Some of the tank tops and black over-the-knee shorts looked more like summer. Let’s just hope nobody will actually dare to wear one of the asymmetrical, one-shouldered tops outside of the house…

Fashion Focus: all about Ann Demeulemeester

Name of the brand: Ann Demeulemeester

Name(s ) of the designer(s):  Ann Demeulemeester

About the designer(s): Ann Demeulemeester (1959) was born in Belgium. She studied at the Royal academy of fine arts in Antwerp and graduated in 1981. She is now a world-renowned fashion designer. She is married to fashion photographer Patrick Robyn.

Start of the brand: 1984

First collection: 1985
Breakthrough: 1986; Ann Demeulemeester then shows her collection in London. She quickly become famous outside of Belgium. Ann is seen as one of the ‘Antwerpse zes’, a group of influential fashion designers who graduated at the Royal Academy of Antwerp in the eighties (including Dries van Noten en Walter van Beirendonck).

The Ann Demeulemeester woman: is not a specific type of woman. Ann said: ‘People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to fit into their lives. I don’t know exactly who will end up wearing my clothes. It’s like creating a present for an anonymous person.’ Ann does say the women she designs for have a strong personality.

Ann Demeulemeester women: Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, Nicole Richie

The clothes are: never ‘trendy’, their focus is on shape and structure. Ann designs with her feelings and uses lots of black in her clothes.

Type of clothes: outspoken, original, comfortable.

Signature: black designs in outstanding shapes

Collaborations: with Rodney Graham (1992), Patti Smith (1999), Steven Klein (2004)

Awards: Golden Spindle (1982), Culture Award (1996)

Quotes:

• ‘The idea that garments are alive is a big inspiration. I want to fill them with soul.’
• ‘I don’t travel’
• ‘I never planned ahead. I just go from one season to the next. If I ever feel like I’ve told my story in this medium, it’ll be time to move on to another.’

Extra:

• Ann has been designing jewellery and furniture as well. She even won some prices with that.
• In the beginning Mugler, Montana, and Versace were Ann’s inspiration
• Since 1996 Ann also designs men’s clothes.
• Ann and her husband Patrick have been together since Ann was seventeen.
• Regardless of the financial crise Ann Demeulemeester has sold more than ever.
• Especially Ann’s laced up boots were a bit hit.

Streetwear trend: trenchcoats

There is hardly any fashion piece that is worn as much and by as many diverse people as the trenchcoat. This iconic coat has a style that suits any person, no matter their age, gender, length, size or race.

Although Burberry claims they invented this coat, nowadays many large fashion labels have trenchcoats in their collections. And the fact that you can run itno someone wearing a trenchcoat every minute of the day proves these coats are still ultra-popular.

While we were in Milan, Paris and New York we ran into all kinds of people wearing the trenchcoat as well. They all wore the fashion piece  differently. So the saying that a trenchcoat tells you something about a person must be true.

If you – after watching our photos – haven’t yet got enough of the streetstyle trench you should take a look at The Art of Trench. Especially for Burberry fashion blogger Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) took the most amazing streetwear trenchcoat photos and Burberry created a website around it.

We couldn’t picture a world without the trenchcoat. If you ask us it’s like with denim, it’s here to stay forever.

Topmodel of the Week: Sasha Pivovarova

Most people know this girl from Prada. She was the face of the brand for three years in a row. Yet this Russian beauty does so much more….

Name: Sasha Pivovarova
Age: 24
Date of Birth:  21 January, 1985
Place of Birth: Moscow, Russia
Discovered: Her friend, photographer Igor Vishnyakov took her picture in 2005 and sent it to IMG modelling agency. She was studying art history back then.

Runway debut: Prada, the brand immediately signed an exclusive three-year contract with Sasha.
Fashion shows: Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Pringle of Scotland, Rag & Bone, Rodarte, Max Mara, PHI, Christian Dior (couture), Elie Saab(couture), Valentino (couture).She opened last season’s (fall/winter 2010/2011)shows for: Jean Paul Gaultier
Covers:  American Vogue, Greek Vogue, Russian Vogue, British Vogue and Australian Vogue.In May 2007 Vogue named her as one of the new ‘supermodels’ together with models like Doutzen Kroes, Jessica Stam and Chanel Iman. As one of the favorite models of Steven Meisel, she appeared on the cover of the Italian Vogue five times.

In 2009 Pivovarova was ranked second on the Models.com top 50, together with Natasha Poly.
Vogue declared her one of the top 30 models of the 2000s.
She won the Best International Model award in Shanghai in 2006

Ad campaigns:  Pirelli 2008, Armani, Longchamp, Chanel, H&M, Mulberry

Agencies:  IMG models (NY), Unique (Denmark), Donna Models (Tokyo)

Quotes:

• ‘I was on board  of 148 airline flights in 2008!’
• ’I’m not a person who likes waking up early’

Extra:

• Sasha loves to paint and draw.
• Her paintings have been published in French Vogue.
• She uses anything as a canvas hotel papers, casting and itinerary papers.
• She is working with Miuccia Prada to produce a book of her own artwork.
• She is also illustrating a book for Karl Lagerfeld based on Russian fairy tales.
• She is married to long-time friend and photographer Igor Vishnyakov.
• She practices Kung Fu.
• She recreated her wedding for a Vogue spread
• She has a very strong Russian accent

Streetstyle vs. Catwalk fashion

Each fashion season we all get very much inspired by the collections presented on the catwalk. After New York, London, Milan and Paris we have new creative ideas and we have picked up the trends we will probably be wearing a season later. So there’s no doubt fashion designers create trends or at least a certain style.

Yet it’s also true that a big part of  fashion starts on the street. What people wear in their daily lives is a starting point for fashion too. Whether it’s your grandma walking her dog in a floral printed skirt, your father in one of his suits or your neighbour is a pair of old school jeans. Every kind of streetwear can be the beginning of a fashion trend.

During the fashion weeks our team always spots the most fashionable people outside the fashion shows. They wear clothes not everyone dares to wear. Their streetstyle is often bright-colored, crazy-shaped and remarkably printed. Not to mention their shoes and accessories.

To show you that streetwear can be an inspiration for fashion designers we selected six outfits that were seen in the streets as well as on the runway.

The fashion we’re gonna see this summer is very lady-like and romantic. Pastel shades and ruffles therefore are unmissable in your summer wardrobe. In need of inspiration? The Valentino show has some great ruffle examples.

Victoria Beckham was one of the first who started wearing bleached denim again last year. And it proves she was right about this denim trend.

Milla Jovovich ones again showed the popularity of the navy trend. Anna dello Russo worked a splendid (Balmain) jacket with silver embellishments (as seen at Anna Sui). And one of the girls we spotted on the street, showed she had guts with a pair of checked pants (which might just be inspired by the Watanabe show that was full of the black and white checked print).

And by the way… Did you know that olive green (Celine) can look this great?

Streetwear trend: pretty in pink

Not only on the runway you see the strangest fashion pieces being worn. On the streets special designs and unexpected trends can be seen as well.

For example this candy pink trend. All of a sudden it seems this color is a huge hit on the streets. Yet we never noticed before it was this popular.

While we were reporting on the pastelshades that are a big fashion trend this summer, this pink popularity most have slipped right through.

On the streets we saw trenchcoats, boots, dresses and tops in pink. Those outfits really stood out in between all the other streetfashion. It looked so fresh we are thinking about hitting the stores ourselves.

Yet of course this color is not for everyone. Only with the right skintone you can look pretty in this kinda pink.

Topmodel of the Week: Abbey Lee Kershaw

This topmodel from down under is unstoppable. She walks in all the big fashion shows, was a Victoria’s Secret angel twice, was a model for the famous Pirelli calender and did a tv commercial for Gucci. You might wanna read more about this Australian beauty…

Name: Abbey Lee Kershaw
Age: 22
Date of Birth: June 12, 1987
Place of Birth: Melbourne, Australia
Discovered: While she was on the beach with her grandma in Australia. After that she took part in a modelling competition and won.
Runway debut: Milan, Gucci. She was booked exclusively for Gucci.
City: New York
Fashion shows: almost any fashion brand; one season Abbey walked in 84 shows.
She was a Victoria’s Secret angel for two years (2008 & 2009).
Last season (fall/winter 2010/2011) she opened the shows of Chanel, Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Issa, John Rocha and Pucci.
Covers:  Australian Vogue, Japanese Vogue, V, Dazed & Confused, Muse, Numéro. In 2008 Style.com named her one of the top ten newcomers.
Abbey Lee is ranked 8th on the Top 50 Models Women list by models.com.
Ad campaigns:  Gucci, D&G, CK Jeans, H&M, Levi’s, Lord & Taylor, See by Chloé, Guilty Brotherhood, Express Jeans and Pirelli Calender 2010.
TV Commercials: Gucci fragrance Flora
Agencies:  Next Management (London, New York, Paris), Chic Management (Sydney), 2pm Model Management (Copenhagen)
Quotes:

• ‘I like my hands. They do most of the talking.’
• ‘Let’s just say, if I weren’t a model, I’d be a walking collage. I see my body as a blank canvas that’s aching to be decorated; I find it all very fascinating.’
• ‘TV will never be something I commit to.’
• ‘I didn’t even know modelling existed as a job’
• ‘In New York you have to be very ambitious to stay ahead of everyone, otherwise you get lost in the crowd.’

Extra:

• Abbey Lee worked in the bakery section at Newmarket Safeway before.
• She has a pierced nose and a pierced nipple.
• During Paris Fashion Week Abbey Lee fainted at the Alexander McQueen runway right before she was to exit the runway.
• She is currently seeing Puerto Rican fashion director, producer, and runway coach Daniel E. Rivera.
• She fell at a spring Rodarte show in New York (2008)
• She had to skip a whole fashion season due to a knee injury.
• She smokes.
• She said no when Alexander McQueen asked her to walk in the spring/summer show in the crazy Armadillo shoes

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