The Kingpins Show New York, november 2017

November 30, 2017 by  
Filed under Denim, Fashion, Featured Items, Kingpins Show, New York

Denim professionals gathered yesterday and today in Basketball City New York for the Kingpins Show. A tradefair filled with denim and kinds of product related to it. We’re always happy to be there and make our bi-annual reportage since the setting, location and people are so cool and relaxed.

Delpozo Spring / Summer 2018 New York

October 11, 2017 by  
Filed under Featured Video, New York, Video

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

September 14, 2017 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

It was within the context of luxury cars (Porsches, Bugattis, Jaguars, Ferraris) that Ralph Lauren’s claim of connection between clothes and cars resonated. Unlike some of the cars, revolutionary when created in terms of design and performance, the clothes didn’t attempt reinvention. Rather they oozed the timeless chic in which Lauren believes deeply and which, as the surroundings indicated, has worked well. The show opened with the tony men’s wear fabrics he loves — mixed tweeds, checks and plaids. The extensive passage featured a women’s range of dressed-up (bustier over pants) and dressed-down (relaxed jacket, pants). Men’s looks included a re-fabricated motorcycle jacket over shirt and tie and a double-breasted coat belted over lumberjack plaid sweater.

DelPozo Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

September 14, 2017 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

The collection of Josep Font for DelPozo was inspired by the kitschy poolside glamour of Esther Williams and the music by Xavier Cuga. A retro world with soirees at the Waldorf Astoria. And without getting on the campy side of that world, Font came up with modern flamboyance, color and concept.
The models walked through the sunlit space at Pier 59 Studios in vivid combinations of red, white, pink, yellow and aqua blue with pert straw bow headpieces while the band Negro Helado, dressed in white tuxedos, performed throwback easy-listening tunes. Daywear was done in architectural shapes — sportswear in sculpted but minimal curves — in mostly ivory punctuated by a pop of fluorescent yellow or orange.

Font also let his imagination run wild with blown-out red paisley prints on a molded coatdress worn over aqua pants, or an aqua and white honeycomb sundress with a bright yellow strap and a wave of sculpted ruffles at the shoulder, hip and hem. There were rainbow-colored tulle gowns and a dress in blue, red and silver lame flowers with puffed tulle sleeves.

Fenty Puma by Rihanna Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

September 13, 2017 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

The set of Rihanna’s Fenty Puma show was a pair of pink sand dunes over which several BMX bikers flew in a series of aerial stunts. After last season’s show of schoolyard stereotypes and the 18th-century girly sport of the season before, Rihanna went in an entirely different direction with a hyper-athletic mash-up of surf, motocross, rock climbing and all things extreme sport.
There were windbreakers and biker shorts, hoodies, racing pants, and for the first time, swimwear. Everything was torqued with athletic straps and buckles and emblazoned with Puma branding as well as words like “wet” and “drowning” in fast, graphic fonts. The colors were classic sports-born combos of navy and hot pink, black and fiery red, pool blue and white and hunter green and navy. The tight stuff was tight, but there was oversized stuff too that had a current street flavor. Everything was styled to the nines with attitude and a sense of humor. And once again Rihanna managed to make athletica, one of the most widely mined concepts in current fashion, into a vibrant collection with a point of view that can hold its own.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2018, Day 04

September 13, 2017 by  
Filed under Featured Items, New York, Streetwear

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, womenswear SS2018.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2018, Day 03

September 12, 2017 by  
Filed under Featured Items, models, New York, People, Streetwear

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, womenswear SS2018.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2018, Day 01

September 11, 2017 by  
Filed under Featured Items, New York, People, Streetwear

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, womenswear SS2018.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

September 11, 2017 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

After two collections, it’s clear that Raf Simons’ approach of Calvin Klein is to mine broad-stroke aspects of American culture, whether out of respect, curiosity or a yen to telegraph to skeptics (if any exist), his appropriateness for the creative helm of one of the great bastions of American fashion. Hence, a prolonged stroll under Sterling Ruby’s latest collaboration with Simons, the rafters now hung with colorful, exaggerated pompoms and banners representing the cheery high school life, but with grim sightings — an axe here or there — interrupting the frivolity. That provided the setting for the show, “Sweet Dreams,” inspired, Simons’ show notes informed, by the Hollywood horror genre and “its depictions of both an American nightmare, and the all-powerful American dream.” It resulted in a thoughtful juxtaposition of pleasant facade and disturbing underbelly, realized via a collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts; Simons used graphics from the artist’s “Death and Disaster” series to recontextualize clothes that ranged from ethereal (ghostly, billowing nightgowns) to cool (coed denim).
Within the social-commentary context, Simons mused broadly and brilliantly on silhouette and materials. He presented Take Two on several very American motifs introduced in his debut collection — the denim, quilts and the color-blocked Western shirts with which he opened. These made an odd kickoff to a show brimming with ideas: modernist nylon redos of full-skirted Fifties frocks, madcap dresses made from miles of yarn fringe, and, for men, lean-cut plaid suits that worked the chic side of geek.

The clothes were often inventive and always impeccable. Yet it all felt a little hollow, observational rather than immersive. Perhaps it’s the difference between an intellectual and emotional approach. Simons falls in the former camp, and masterfully so. Yet horror is an emotional motif. The show notes indicated “a corporeality that speaks of both sexuality and mortality.” That’s a lot to put on a dress — even one with Warhol knives on it.

, our review will follow shortly.

Tom Ford Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

September 11, 2017 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

The spring summer collection Tom Ford presented was a classic one: the calculated decadence we know so well from Ford, rendered in a split between athletic-derived sportswear and power-woman goddess gowns. Crossover of athletica into the primary daywear vernacular aside, Ford loves tailored polish. He opened with a bold-shouldered pale pink satin tuxedo jacket over a liquid metallic top and short-shorts, rolled at the hem. Unlike the old Gucci days when he worked the daylights out of a single look, here he offered options, some approachably chic, others challenging to all but the most secure of attitude and body image: classic pantsuits, dressed-up dark denim, short leather trenches and racy jumpsuits. One, a long, backless drink of water in white crepe, rang the bell of a long-ago Gucci dress with a cutout abdomen. An infusion of wit came in an only Tom take on the twinset: slouchy chain mail shoulder bag and matching briefs worn with a louche pale pink top. As for the eveningwear, strong shoulders and sequined sleeves transported classic draping from ethereal to aggressive, as glam as it gets.

The takeaway was of familiar audacity. Ford believes genuinely in the transformative power of clothes.

It didn’t come easily. To replicate the original getups, Ford wanted old-school tube socks, to the knee, but his staff came up empty — today’s versions hit midcalf. Someone then thought to cut the sock foot into a thong, thus extending the overall length. Tailored tube socks. Aspiration realized takes many forms.

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