G-Star Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

The new G Star NY RAW-collection was a fusion between 3D, craftsmanship, the elegancy of 1920’s city life and outdoor. That sounds a bit weird, but somehow the designteam of G-Star made it into a modern, consistent collection with a clean urban vibe. The collection also showcased hidden functionalities, based on 1920’s explorers mixed with elegant tailoring. Heavy protection-wear is back into fashion.

Highlights of the collection were the New Charlie Pant for men, featuring a 3D-shaped leg and extreme high back, originally to protect from weather conditions at sea, and inspired by an over pant, which creates volume. The padded Jade Skirt for women featured an extreme knee silhouette created for protection, whilst looking elegant due to high tech tailoring. It was combined with the utility Selwyn Vest, featuring a waxed finish inspired by early North Sea fishermen, who would rub linseed oil into their smocks for waterproofing and windproofing.

Representation of this Metropolitan Explorer theme included the Launceton Coat for both men and women, featuring a storm collar and the natural insulating properties of wool to create a weather proof piece, whilst having a refined tailored silhouette. The city camouflage modern geometric print in the collection also underpinned the core theme, as expressed in the Mackay Jacket.

Prabal Gurung Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Prabal Gurung got the inspiration for his romantic-with-an-edge collection from Miss Havisham, the rich, heartbroken bride that becomes mad in the Charles Dickens novel ‘Great Expectations’.

That explains the beautifully made and seductive dresses in scarlet or blush pink with dramatic flaws: a ‘wrong’ shoulder above a full skirt, a black leather jacket contrasting with a lacy chiffon skirt, harlequin patterned pants, a juicy mix of red with pink. But also fabrics that were washed so many times they almost began to break down. Fur and feathers worked into the surfaces also gave that disordered look.

It was a daring collection, since Prabal Gurung’s signature seemed more the American sportswear-style. But the designer explained he was in for a new challenge and it seems it worked out very well for him.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

The collection Alexander Wang sent out yesterday was based on thick padded ponchos, quilted on the inside, that looked as if the models had pulled duvet covers over their heads. All the lush, cocoon-y outerwear was clever, with hybrids of bomber jacket-turned-poncho, boyfriend blazer-turned-fur coat, and a tuxedo jacket with puffer sleeves.

Sometimes it looked a bit exaggerated and over the top, but that’s just what Wang had in mind. He wanted to make some fun of decadence and luxury. A key element of the collection was the use of technologically advanced fabrics that combined knits and woven silk in a single piece, the result worked out beautifully. But there were more materials he used unexpectedly: everyday fleece or techno Neoprene for elegant outfits, jogging pants in luxurious pony skin; and eye goggles framed with fur. Even when the clothes were relatively classic, like bias-cut satin dresses, the skirts unraveled into ribbon streamers to give the look a twist.

Libertine Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Known for it’s sophisticated yet handcraft one-of-a-kind garments the Los Angeles based label Libertine sent out a colorful, artistic collection with painted plaid-prints on coats, blazers, dresses, tights and even gloves. The garments were pretty classic and chic – like short blazers, pencilskirts, dresses, tiny cardigans and coats – but the colors, prints and mix made it very modern and surprising. Electric blue, purple, fuchsia, yellow-green, red, orange and black were mixed together and made it into an upbeat collection.

Johnson Hartig and then partner Cindy Greene started Libertine in 2004 presenting vintage pieces with silk-screened graphics. After a few seasons of silence Hartig is back without his partner.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

The army of press and photographers at the catwalkshows of Jason Wu grows every season bigger and bigger. Since Michelle Obama put the designs of this young designer in the international spotlights, his shows are one of the most anticipated of New York. This time the setting was a runway made of gilded mirrors and grandiose chandeliers in glass boxes decorating the room. And it was the perfect stage for his new fall winter collection where baroque met sportswear in a very elegant, daring way. Lace never looked so fresh.

Wu’s polished and ladylike look had a more urban vibe. The designer put a big emphasis on tailoring. He opened with a charcoal gray coat flung over the shoulders of a cropped jacket, printed blouse, and slim black slacks. Instead of an average flannel coat this one came with a strip of black lace down each sleeve.It was followed by prim, high-collared silk blouses with frilled collars and delicate bows at the closure and a virginal white dress with dainty lace overlay. For cocktail and evening Jason Wu came up with his signature tulipdresses and ravishing columndresses.

Wu made lace an integral part of this collection. Sometimes little bits of lace were embroidered onto blouses or A-line, slightly above-the-knee skirts and he engineered it to look like a print. The designer went all the baroque way by adding dense clusters of colorful stones at lace embroideries, even the hair got a gold-leaf pigment. Black and nude were the main colors, spiced up by blue, red and green.

H&M launches eco-fabulous Conscious Collection

This spring H&M will launch yet another eco friendly fashion collection. The Consicous Collection, which will hit the stores on the 14th of April, is meant for women, men and children and looks amazing.

With lots of whites and shades of nude, embroideries, ruffles and drapings the collection for women is ultra-romantic. And though the designs are made from organic cotton and recycled polyester, there’s no sign of the geeky image sustainability might have. We loved the maxi skirt, the shorts and the beautiful embroidered dresses!

With Natasha Poly as the face of this collection (in the commercial for the sustainable Garden collection of last year we saw her with blond hair) H&M couldn’t have picked a better spokesperson.

Here are some snapshots of the Conscious Collection…

Boutyq Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam AW 2011

The Boutyq-event has developed itself into a serious fashion-event, where Dutch talents get to present themselves two times a year plus an international renowned brand or fashion-house. Last Tuesday Dutchies Francisco van Benthum, Jeroen van Tuyl, Jan Boelo and the British label Unconditional presented their fall winter 2011 collections. And after a full week of mainly womenwear it was refreshing to see some good menswear-collections.

Francisco van Benthum started his career in 1996 with colleague Michiel Keuper, but began his own line in 2001. It’s been difficult for the talented designer to maintain his own label over the years, but it seems his Francisco van Benthum/whitelabel is succesful. It was this line he presented at Boutyq. His clothes still have that constructed  look but less edgy, finishing and proportions still play an important role.

Jeroen van Tuyl celebrates his 10th anniversary this year and he proved himself a serious mensweardesigner. Elegant, sharp, tough are keywords that explain his signature style, his graphics are always strong. This time prints were inspired by pieces of broken glass and they appeared at suits, coats and scarves.

Jan Boelo has just begun, but got his education at several sources: Jan Taminiau, Marloes Blaas, Paul Schulten and Balmain. At the last fashionhouse he discovered his signature style: strict, sharp and with a touch of rock ‘n roll. He presented his first collection in 2010.

Philip Stephens is the man behind the British label Unconditional, contemporary, luxury basics for men and women are mixed with more fashionable and seasonable specials. Remarkable fact is that the collections are produced in an ethical way, with organic fabrics and environment friendly dyes.

Highlights 14th edition AIFW FW2011

We did it again! We survived Amsterdam International Fashion Week, with more than 27 shows, presentations and party’s. We shot front-stage, backstage, street-wear, shows and soirees and we loved every minute of it.

More than 20.000 people attended the AIFW this time – amongst them a large group of international bloggers – and we hope they enjoyed themselves as much as we did. We did see some strong collections, beautifully dressed people and a lot of fashion-enthusiasm. We won’t forget the couture-show of Jan Taminiau or the colorful parade of Bas Kosters full with energy and fantasy. And we were surprised by the collection of Marloes Blaas and the sweet romantic style of Sage & Ivy. Die-hards like Tony Cohen and Addy van den Krommenacker demonstrated us what a real professional catwalk-show looks like. And talking about show: you don’t have to tell Supertrash anything about that. This was glamor tot the max!

And let’s not forget Spijkers & Spijkers, Monique Collignon, the LAB-shows, Ready to Fish by Ilja Visser,  Huen Yeu, Velour, Elsien Gringhuis. And the Green Fashion Competition. This is how diverse and inventive Dutch fashion-design is.

Fashion is vaporized

After a week of hard work and great shows the fashion-circus is leaving again. What’s left are good memories and the left-overs of parties and presentations. Bye Amsterdam Fashion Week, we’ll be back in july!

Next stop for Team Peter Stigter is New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2011  and we will keep you posted on what’s happening there. See you soon and thanks for all the enthusiastic support.

Hunkemöller Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam

On the last evening of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week lingerielabel Hunkemöller held a show named ‘It’s a women’s world and we love it’ in the Zuiveringshal at the Westergasterrein. For it’s brand new collection Hunkemöller was inspired by Hollywoodstars of the thirties and forties, like Marlene Dietrich, Josephine Baker.

Models with daring pink wigs (which had been cut and steamed for hours backstage) walked the runway in the most diverse lingerie looks.

We saw bras, strings and high waisted knickers in nudes, orange, green, purple, petrol, deep blue and black. Combined with lace, strass-details, bows, feathers and garters they made up for a very feminine and sexy look.

The collection was divided into four separate themes; Hollywood Glamour, Hot Cognac, Excentric Luxury and Mysterious Black, each with it’s own inspiration, colors and style. All looks were finished off by eye catching jewelry and accessories.

During the grande finale a model (the contemporary muse of Hunkemoller) wearing a brown slip dress, a shoulder- and an enormous head piece appeared on the runway. She stood on top of some stairs as all models walked their final round on the catwalk.

A great show. Adele’s Rolling in the Deep is still in our heads…

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