First View Milan ss2012: Sweet Memories

Celebrating the sweet is what Miucca Prada preaches for ss2012. Reminiscent of famous movie-moments these catwalk beauties look soft, smooth and sensual. This polished romance is not always just innocent since frivolous fabrics alternate with shimmery plastics and lush leather. Dressed up looks show a continuous interest in accessories and jewelry with supersized glasses, sparkling jewelry and charming bags.

Blugirl goes innocent, with sweet florals in pretty pastels, where Fendi adds a touch of concealed drama in ladylike looks. Fabrics as well as shapes have pin up appeal; lovely lace tops, frilled aprons and pretty plisse skirts. Adding to the lust for print, as we noticed in New York, Milan shows Fifties inspired patterns in the loveliest of colour schemes.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

From the flowing, moody jewel-colored Seventies style to a more constructed, hard and geometric jazzy style – that’s the turn Gucci-designer Frida Giannini took this season. And this anniversary-collection looks quite different. Polished as ever, but with jazzy influences (flapper-dresses), references from the Twenties and Thirties, Louise Brooks, African Art and Man Ray. But also the geometric lines of the art deco style the American way – as in the Chrysler building – and the metallic surfaces. Giannini herself said in the show-notes she wanted to show an optical side of femininity, a sculptural glamor.

Well, glamorous it was, and polished but somehow it lacked a certain softness and sensuality. Maybe it’s because of the mix of equestrian elements like striped, double-breasted jockey-jackets, the green/ocre/white and black. Or the straight lines and hard metallics.

Hopefully we’ll find more of Gucci’s sensual warmth in the museum that’s soon to be opened in Florence.

 

 

First View New York ss2012: Tribal

Urban tribes stride the catwalk. Each designer driven by personal inspirations and motivations. ‘Afriluxe’ states Michael Kors, a more minimal tribal turn for BCBG, Haiti influenced Donna Karan where Proenza Schouler designers followed their feel for crafts. Roomy tunics, slouchy shifts and rompy sweaters shape this decorative and laid back look. Brush stroke prints, dip-dyed patterns in a Haitian inspired colour palette; earthy shades and shots with burning orange, deep purple, golden ochre and sea green. Superior craftsmanship is shown in beaded patterns, raffia weaves and tie-dye, batik and ikat patterns. From precise and traditional folk interpretations to expressive, graphic and large-scale tribal twists.

This third ‘Stylespot’, analysing the New York catwalks, is one more proof of the power of print.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Impressions of AIFW SS2012 Day 4

This was Day 4 of Amsterdam International Fashion Week edition SS2012. Highlights of yesterday were the Frank-show which turned out to be a guerilla-action of Zeeman, the Quoc Thang show and the cheerful show of  the Danish label Edith & Ella. It was also the day that the Green Fashion Competition took off.

 

Catwalk Fashion Show Ilja Couture / Ready to Fish AW2012

Today Dutch designer Ilja Visser followed in the footsteps of Tom Ford and Victoria Beckham and brought intimacy back to the runway. Not only was her brand new Ready to Fish collection narrated look by look, different courses of a Ilja Visser menu were served in between every few looks too.

It was a lovely setting and there was a nice atmosphere. You could not tell Ilja’s whole team (hairdressers, make-up artist, marketing and shop employees to name a few) had been working all day to make sure four different shows were held. Four different shows, four different audiences and four different types of amusement (lunch, drinks, a little boat trip and diner).

The Ready to Fish collection was all inspired by the eighties movie Paris, Texas and brought a mix of masculine details and feminine elegance. There was a lot of asymmetry, which we’ve seen before at Ready to Fish. Also, the bright yellow and pink shades and the raw denim stood out. The clothes felt thick for summer, but thanks to the choice of fabrics (linen, loose knits) were in fact airy.

Straight after the ready to wear collection presentation we were presented with a few very strong Ilja couture looks from the collection named Pluche. The inspiration – politicians and formalities – was not very visible, but the creations (mainly black and beige) were stunning. Business influences like high shoulders and classic cuffs were combined with feminine silhouettes. Ilja used a lot of fake fur and played with the structure of her couture designs.

Both collection were beautifully made and presented in a great way. We had a fun night and can only hope more designers decide to go back to where fashion shows once started; intimate, personal and memorable.

The three pictures above are three looks from the Ilja couture collection.

 

 

 

 

Jan Taminiau Couture Collection Paris FW2012

Dutch designer Jan Taminiau seemed to be the first designer to kick off Haute Couture week in Paris, unofficially that is. While everybody was awaiting the Dior couture-show (is there already a new designer?), Jan prepared his collection quietly. Nature Extends is the name of the collection, that was an unusual mix of cork and rich, flowing materials like chiffon. The fabrics and materials were sculpted into long, dramatic high collared dresses and tight suits. Colors changed from silver sequins into gray, taupe, brown/yellow.

Fashionclash, this was saturday

The second day of Fashionclash was reserved for three long shows from all kinds of designers, from expertimental hairpieces to perfect men’s shirts. Highlights of the evening were the collections of Delikatessen, Femke Agema, Angelo van Mol, Diana Tax en Swantje Langeheine.

Fashionclash Maastricht Exhibition

The third edition of Fashionclash Maastricht is a fact. This year the event presents more than 100 emerging talents from 11 countries. It’s three days of fashion in the broadest sense of the word. Presented in the raw industrial surroundings of the old Mosa factory, the first Dutch porcelain factory  known for working with talented designers.

Fashionclash creates a clash with fashion, a cultural and creative encounter of designers, disciplines and culture around the overarching theme – fashion. It’s also a unique platform for young and talented designers.They not only show their collections, there are also designers and photographers who present their work in  an exhibition.

 

Fashionclash, this was friday

The first day of Fashionclash Maastricht 2011 the stage was for the catwalk performance of Karel van Laere and the show of sixe German designers who presented themselves as Berlin Offer.

Van Laere’s catwalk performance reminded of reptiles crawling over the floor, the models dressed in shiny (cat)suits embroidered with small particles were dragged along the runway which gave it a siniter underworld character.

The show of Berlin Offer presented a variety of styles and inspirations. Strict and sober, fokloristic, modern hippies and paradisebirds – it was all part of an impressing show.

 

Fashionclash opening

The opening-show at the third edition of Fashionclash Maastricht 2011 opened with a fashionprocession, to illustrate the relationship between the creativity of fashion and the religious background of Maastricht. The procession was followed by a collection of black & white folded and pleated garments made by the 2nd year-students of the academy if Fine Arts in Maastricht called Blast. The finale was called Rash and the collectiond seemed inspired by fantasy, science fiction and maybe a part Alice in Wonderland and The Wizard of Oz (?).

It surely made a remarkable fashion-moment.

 

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