D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

The D&G- ss2012 show brought us back to the years that Gianni Versace reigned men’s fashion with his large foulard-prints. But the designers at D&G went a bit further, they not only used the prints for shirts, they also mixed them with denim in pants, showed them on bermudas, hats, suede moccasins, jackets and T-shirts. And every which way and loose, loose being the operative word for flowing shirts, low-crotch pants and roomy swimming trunks. We’ve got the message indeed.

This is the last D&G collection before it is integrated with the main label.  So we’d better enjoy it.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

According to WWD Gucci’s new collection was inspired by a gentlemen’s club. “But a very relaxed one with a sporty attitude,” creative director Frida Giannini told WWD backstage before the show.

The inspiration was visible in the checked (hounds tooth, Prince of Wales and Glen plaid checks) suits, the classic  cardigans and the bow ties. It was also in the absence of socks and ties, which you wouldn’t necessarily miss if Giannini hadn’t said anything.

Like the boys at Calvin Klein and Bikkembergs The guys from Gucci’s club are sporty types too, we could tell by the leather trim on a red coat and the large pockets on some of the shorter jackets. Yet unlike many other menswear brands we saw this week Giannini didn’t go with the loose, relaxed silhouette. Her designs stayed classic and tailored; probably just how the English gentleman likes it.

Moncler Gamme Bleu Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

Tom Browne surely knows how to morph the craziness for sports into a wearable collection for the Italian label Moncler Gamme Bleu. You can’t believe that after his extra-ordinary shows led with military precision, the Italian teenagers actually buy his clothes. But leave all the quirky details and entertainment out, and left is a collection with nice athletic jackets and bombers, T-shirts, shorts, leather motorcycle gear and navy-inspired costumes. Checks came in gray and black, stripes in blue and white with an occasionally red accent and black and white played their of role.

The show was set in a real fence-club with trophies and photos of fencers lining the walls. Giant, fluorescent sci-fi lights were there just for the occasion. The connection between a fencer’s padding and Moncler’s skiwear heritage is rather obvious, but you need Browne to make the link between this and the storm troopers in Star Wars. To the tune of the movie’s ‘Imperial March’ the masked corps filed out and lined up against the back wall of the club. The tone was set.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Sports are going to be big for 2012. At Missoni the Olympic games were the main inspiration for the new collection. The brand reinvented the Olympic tracksuit that Ottavio Missoni (founder of Missoni) designed for the 1948 London Olympic games.

This heritage translated to a beautiful color palette (the turquoise/sand combinations looked stunning) and the most elegant knitwear. Soft jackets and classic cut cardigans (with different patterns) were worn on top of each other, mixed with sporty shorts.

The mood of the show was relaxed, the clothes looked comfy. Though most of the designs are by no means suitable for wearing at the contemporary Olympics; they’re sure fun for a casual day at the office or a lunch in the park.

Our pictures will be published shortly.

 

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

No doubt Miuccia Prada is into golf. Her new ss2012 menswear-collection screamed golf from head to toe. From the oversized caps to the shoes and colorful bags with clubs. She must have been on the green lately and asked herself why those golfers looked so geeky and dressed so bored. And she decided to draw a totally new world. Literary. The setting of the Prada show was unreal, as in colors and prints that were to bright, outfits that looked out of this world, too green fake grass and kitchy, shiny clubs.

But you’ll never know with Prada. The collection was a strange, casual mix of vintage-looking golfwear, rhinestone western-jackets, Sixties-inspired flowerprints and Fifties-inspired comics of jazz-musicians. Black, blue and gray played with faded yellow, blue and taupe. The silhouette was slender, with straight pants topped with double breasted jackets, a pullover, a polo or a short jacket. Scarves tied in the neck instead of ties. It all reminded me of the cliche-image people have of American men in the fifties. You’re shocked at first view, but at second sight you admire them for their courage. It’ll make the world a lot more brighter.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Calvin Klein was quite what we expected. Clean wearable looks in plain colors, this time with a very sporty vibe. Sporty pants were mixed with tank tops, polo’s and T-shirts. All perfectly color-coordinated in shades of white, grey, yellow and black (incl. the socks and the shoes).

Fabrics were sheer and shiny, with sporty details like lines and zippers. Everything looked perfectly constructed and none of the looks seemed to be trying to hard. Like a white suit jacket mixed with shorts (worn just over the knee) and a simple pair of jeans with a casual black T-shirt. A shiny short black jacket with a straight pair of black pants and a long jacket combined with a waist belt.

We will have to get used to the (look-a-like) safety glasses and the sequined tops, but the rest of the collection will definitely be an instant hit.

 

 

 

 

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Oh, how I wish every man would dress like Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta uses to dress his men. How tough, sensitive and beautiful they would look in one outfit. The Bottega Veneta ss2012-collection proved it again. Impeccable suits in decent colors and patterns, soft and tough leather pants and jackets, workwear de luxe in denim and leather and intelligent mixes of prints, knitwear and fabrics. It seemed a fine mix of the inventive and the innovative without screaming or being to eccentric.

The sheer quality of the materials put the collection into a high register and the essential alost invisible codes of the house were all there, especially in the soft bags folded under the arm like giant envelopes. Even the use of ‘shocking’ colors, as in turquoise or green suits, the result was still classy.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

If anything the Emporio Armani show today was relaxed. The silhouette was loose, the fabrics were airy and the nonchalant male models walked in a chill mode (sunglasses on, hands in their pockets).

The fabrics moved with every step the models took. Those loose pants seemed ultra comfortable, several knitted sweaters looked weightless and some of the jackets appeared almost translucent.

With a colored palette ranging from off white and light grey to navy and black Armani’s silk and linen designs were the perfect example of casual elegance.

Dark denim and leather jackets with lots of zippers added some streetwise feeling. And the barefoot finale once more stressed the relaxed spirit of this collection. No sharp & sleek business looks here, but maybe Armani wants men to loosen up a bit. It sure looks very tempting.

 

 

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

It was the first time Roberto Cavalli’s son Daniele Cavalli had some influence on the menswear-collection. His father asked him to add some youthful juice to the line. He presented an almost clean collection, where blue-tones and white played a central role plus some bold colors. The show was a romantic take on Riviera summers with influences from all over the world. Instead of playboys in flirty clothes came men dressed smart casual in natty blazers, suits in vivid fuchsia, yellow or purple/blue, and jackets with inserts of python.It seemed the young designer wanted to do a very good job, not too cool and hip.

And somehow it worked out fine, to be honest: it was better than all the rock ‘ roll, Jim Morrison meets Mick Jagger inspired Cavalli-collections we’ve seen in the past seasons. Although it lacked a bit of irony.

John Varvatos Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

After just the first look the mood was set at John Varvatos. Dressed in a loose blouse and a slightly flared pair of trousers, accessorized by an eye-catching necklace the look of the long haired model breathed seventies, hippie-chic, romance and freedom.

From that first look on the loose silhouette continued (as well as the long hair). First in multiple grey tones. Changing from a loose fitting suit jacket to a military jacket and later a long cardigan (never without the necklace).

Waistcoats, suede jackets, a checked pair of pants and scarfs with the print of the American flag followed in shades of sand, camel, off white and black. All styled with a seventies vibe (lots of layering), but just as wearable combined with some less outspoken items for anyone who’s not feeling the early Rolling Stones style.

 

 

 

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