Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

That was a dark show and a tough and sharp fall-collection Alexander Wang presented yesterday. Again Wang played with perceptions by manipulating his fabrics.

Fabrics looked stiff and shiny, the palette was white, black and a bit of oxblood. The silhouette was graphic, with lacquered merino wool tweeds, waxed suedes and shrink wrapped-jacquard knits. The first look was a boxy, white lacquered tweed raincoat with a round helmet of a hood. Under it, a fishnet turtleneck was pulled up over the model’s mouth. Sometimes it reflected a mood of chic aggression.

After the models took their final walk, the lights changed and out came a more elite and elder pack of models, including Shalom Harlow, Karolina Kurkova and Gisele Bündchen as the finale. The looks they wore were the same but with less shine, more refinement and more tailoring.

Prabal Gurung Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

In Prabal Gurung’s fall collection Hell and Heaven came together, starting off with all black, followed by a blue period, and culminating in a finale of gold and ivory.  To the press the designer talked about his own spiritual quest, about embracing both the dark and the light within.
The show went from dark to light, beginning with all-black looks on brunette/black models, then a blue section on girls with light brown hair, followed by the ivory and gold finale shown on blondes. With this collection Gurung moved away from the ladyfied looks that got him noticed in the first place.

A sense of precision was revealed in well-defined lines: sculpted coats, tunics and sexy bootleg trousers; a black neoprene dress with sheer tulle inserts at the waist and neck accessorized with a patent-leather spine harness. Bold variations on spring’s Rorschach-like prints turned up, as did the flounced-skirt silhouette.

Peter Som Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

There was a lot of peplum-stuff going on at Peter Som. With this major seasonal trend Som payed homage to Hollywood icons like Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn. The designer was also inspired by the industrial shapes of 20th century sculptors Chamberlain and Brancusi. Stiff fabrics added an architectural element to the clothes. The designer explored just about every use of the peplum from skirt-like overlays on top of narrow trousers to a frill on the rear of a beautiful, leather burgundy pencil skirt to a long, flowing floor-length chiffon train on a black nylon organza dress. Prints were almost absent, but the colors were interesting: bottle green, burgundy, muddy brown and flashes of neon pink.

Doo.Ri Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

From the first model that stepped at the catwalk at Doo.Ri it was obvious the collection was influenced by modern dance. The washed out faces, the slicked-back buns with headbands and the jersey draping. And hey, draping seems to be the strongest point of designer Doo-Ri Chung – so there was much to enjoy. From the twist-top blouses and dresses,  high necks, and ink-blue wrap dresses with a twist top. The most interesting idea was to create jackets and coats that looked like two overlapping garments. Colors were like poetry: the tonal combinations of pale pink and shades of brown and eggplant looked fresh.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

For the first time Jason Wu took his heritage – Asia – as a theme for his collection. Fall 2012 is all about Mao meets the Qing dynasty and Shanghai Express. Luckily no cliche-clothes, but a savvy and sophisticated collection. A belted, army green puffy jacket was quilted at the shoulders with a black lace overlay everywhere else except the big military pockets. Opulent embroideries, fur sleeves and collars gave the sharp tailoring a regal air. Variations on the cheongsam dress were beautiful precision-cut sheaths, some with alluring keyhole necklines, others with lavish embroideries. For evening, Wu recharged a Golden Age glamour silhouette with a strong shoulder, high neck and lean skirt that draped around the body with a dramatic slit.

Menswear: it’s all in the accessories

Spring is not far away, but in Europe it’s still winter. So we still stay close to the wintertrends – just in case you’re looking for a hat, boots or bag.

 Boots

Karl Lagerfeld is wearing them for years and will probably never take them off: his black heeled boots. And he’s absolutely right, because this fashionable footwear is everything a man needs this winter.

While women are already hooked for years, finally our men seem to be down for this timeless and ultra comfy footwear. Even the trouser- in- shoe- style seems to be accepted right now. While boots used to be worn by the rebels and mavericks, they now veered into high fashion territory. Labels like Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Kris van Assche, Bottega Veneta and Ann DeMeulemeester showed us masculine and sturdy boots. And also on the streets we find many men walking in them.

Most popular this season is for sure the combat boot, based on the actual military boot worn by soldiers. We saw them already last year, mainly because of the huge military trend, but this time the designers gave a little twist to it. They played with different colors and textures and combined brogues, sporty and grunge elements into one. Not convinced yet? Just take a look at these men…

Classic hats

They used to be the ultimate style element for a man in the twenties en thirties and for some men it still is: the classic hat. After the huge popularity in the early Nineteenth Century – think American entertainers like Humphrey Bogart and Frank Sinatra – this iconic item sadly enough disappeared for years because it became an item that was more for the older and conservative man.

But in the Nineties it was pop icon Michael Jackson that made this phenomenon incredibly popular again. Flipping his head while doing the moonwalk. And many stars followed his lead later on, like Justin Timberlake and Black Eye Peace front singer Will.i.am. They showed that a hat is something that everyone man could en should wear on every age, and not only in a classic way.

And that’s exactly what the designers showed us too this season. While still most popular worn with a suit, a hat can be worn with almost everything and in every style. From fedora chic to Mafioso cool. Preferably right on the head and a little bit over the eyes. Take a look at the photos to see which style will suit you well…

Bags

Bags, you can’t have enough of them, at least if we ask most women. But for men it has always been a little bit different. Why carrying a bag all day when you can put your stuff in your pocket? But it seems that they’ve changed their minds. For the last few years we’ve seen more and more men walking with a so-called man bag. And not just a bag, but a real it- bag that fits perfectly with their outfit. Even a clutch is no longer a no go area. Thanks to male celebs and style icons like Pharrell Williams, Kanye West and David Beckham, showing off their Louis Vuitton and Prada purses, men seem to no longer be ashamed to be spotted with a man bag.

And this is not only noticeable in the streets but the catwalks are also full of it. Man bags are coming in a wider range of size, type, color and material. They’re masculine, aesthetic and perfect to finish off your outfit for any occasion. Like the Bottega Veneta super size casual chic purses or the structured clutches from Louis Vuitton to smarten up your look. So do not longer be afraid to get in touch with your feminine side, because the man bag is slowly becoming a real wardrobe essential.

Eva Dusch

This was Amsterdam Fashion Week FW2012

Fashion is vaporized. All cameras are packed. Make up dissolved. The stage disappeared. This 16th edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week attracted almost 20.000 people. Visitors enjoyed the vibe and nice shows, to name some highlights: the openingnight with Bas Kosters and Sjaak Hullekes, the Lab-shows, Sage & Ivy-show, SIS by Spijkers & Spijkers, Jan Boelo and the Cast Iron-show. A special thanks to the organization of Amsterdam Fashionweek who made it all work out smoothly.

We’re on our way already to the next fashionweeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

So we’ll meet again.

 

 

Said Mahrouf & Dennis Diem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

Sunday night Amsterdam Fashion Week came to an end with not one but two fashion shows, sponsored by Flower Fashion Group.

Dennis Diem

Dennis Diem’s collection ‘The Asphalt Jungle’ (inspired by this film noir film) was based on the beauty of the orchid. It included stunning corsets and bodysuits (Diem’ signature) made out of beautiful reptile scales, in black and off white. They were combined with incredibly high heels, with which Diem tried to change the charisma of a woman.

Besides the floral theme and the scales there were more nature-inspired influences in his designs. A black top was decorated by feathers, a light bodysuit was made out of white fur and bones and skulls were used for accessories (necklace and clutches) and those towering high shoes.

Like Mahrouf Diem also opted for very feminine touches like ruffles and floral shapes. He even ended his show with an exquisite white (bridal) gown. Still, his collection was completely different from that of Mahrouf. Diem added more of an edge to his looks and creatively showed off his handcraft skills in his details.

It might not have been the most wearable collection of the Amsterdam Fashion Week, but Diem certainly wowed us with his designs. We assume it won’t take long until Lady Gaga orders one of his unique looks to make a special appearance. Hats off for Diem for holding a great closing show. It might even be one of the best of the week.

Said Mahrouf

On a catwalk decorated with floral art Said Mahrouf was the first one to show his new collection inspired by roses and orchids.

During his fashion show debut in Amsterdam he showed summer dresses in off white and pretty pastels. Short playful dresses were followed by long elegant gowns. They all had fun and feminine details like asymmetry, ribbons, bows and twisted fabrics. The collection breathed summer, especially with the light yellow and green eye make-up.

A beautiful bridal gown with a subtle train and a white bouquet was the last look of Mahrouf’s super feminine collection. It perfectly combined the elegant collection and the show’s floral theme. How lovely!

Dennis Diem & Said Mahrouf Frontrow Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

Who sat next to whom at Dennis Diem and Said Mahrouf?

Check out the front row of the last Amsterdam Fashion Week shows below.

Monique Collignon Couture Front Row Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

Who visited the Monique Collignon Couture show today? Check out the front row gallery below.

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