Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The Louis Vuitton-collection hit all the commercial notes. Washed denim bags, printed scarves and shirts with chinese tattoo prints and clothes with a sense of travel and adventure. The prints were designed by tattoo-artist Scott Campbell and they even appeared on the models skin the LV-monogram included.

The clothes should make every man eager, since he lost his appetite in a great suit.  Constructions of jackets were functional, fabrics were kept lightweight – inspired by parachutes – and some jackets came in pebbled leather or colored python. There even was a camouflage-like leopard-print.

It all had a sporty, outdoor vibe, not only because of the fabrics (nylon, silk), but also because of the construction and looks: bermuda’s, shorts, quilted short jackets. Shirts looked inspired by the middle-east, especially those thin, semi-transparent shirts with tattoo-prints and T-shirts. Colors were kept modest, lots of (dark)blue, black, beige, white and gray.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The overall message this season is redefining contemporary dressing. And Viktor & Rolf  practice this message since they started designing menswear. Their hero for the summercollection 2011 was a 1940’s moviestar on vacation at Biarritz. In his suitcase he got a streamlined suit with elongated jackets and wider lapels – sometimes in contrasting colors, piped or with sequins -,  short sleeved sweaters, a bermuda and leather sandals.

Viktor & Rolf chose typical summer fabrics like seersucker and a madras-check. Colors were kept light, as in white, chocolate-brown, blue and gray. Patent-leather shoes in blue, black and white contrasted with the beige and black/blue.

Singer/performer La Roux (aka Elly Jackson) appeared as their special guest at the Monsieur -show. Viktor & Rolf: “When we first saw La Roux on TV, we were immediately drawn to her.  We were intrigued by the way she plays with expectations about gender and we love her authentic way of dressing.  Her boyish attitude mixed with her high-pitched voice creates a great contradiction.  We had this vision to dress her in our Monsieur line, but made to measure for her and that’s what we’ve done: a blue silk jacket with a black top and black tuxedo pants.  We consider it menswear, adapted to a woman.”

La Roux said “I was thrilled to be asked to play at Viktor & Rolf’s Paris show. I’m a very big fan of theirs and for me it’s a natural fit, my music and their style. I look forward to future collaborations with them.” La Roux performed an exclusive acoustic set for the designers and their audience.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Right before the show Rick Owens was quietly drinking his espresso and watched everybody getting ready. Yet once the show started calm and quiet weren’t words that came to mind anymore. The music was extremely loud and the models seemed to be almost running on the catwalk as if the end of the world was near…

Like the hair of the male models, the silhouette of this collection was long. Jackets, blouses and tops all often reached the models’ knees (how summery!). Besides the boys wore long leather boots and some of them worked a long headband.

For this collection Owens again used his favourite shades: black & white, with one or two brown items. It matched to show area (a big black room) and the special effect of the show (white smoke was blown in the air).

Apart from the long autumn-like jackets Owens introduced a few sleeveless versions. Several of those were made out of leather. And while this season many brands opted for the double breasted jackets, Owens made his with zippers at the front.

Some of the tank tops and black over-the-knee shorts looked more like summer. Let’s just hope nobody will actually dare to wear one of the asymmetrical, one-shouldered tops outside of the house…

Francisco van Benthum Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

This spring Francisco van Benthum announced he was going to start two extra clothing lines, one casual ‘FVB’ and one chic ‘Van Benthum’. Of course his main line ‘Francisco van Benthum’ stays. In fact this week he showed his latest spring/summer collection of that line in Paris.

The collection started with some completely white outfits. Loose pants with fully buttoned blouses and sleeveless tops that felt kind of sporty. Then some grey coats were added, all with a different shape, but still with a sporty touch.

The models walked on sandals, colored white, grey and yellow. And though it’s a fashion no-go, they did wear socks in them.

The second half of the show the yellow, grey and white were replaced by some beige, green and black. Francisco took some risks by combining sleeveless tops with small waistbelts and ties. He also introduced a red striped (beach-chair?!) print.

Altogether the collection was a modern mix of sporty/casual outfits. And as always it was clear Francisco had been experimenting a lot with volume and proportions. We’re not so sure if the men-waistbelt will become such a huge hit, but everything else looked quite wearable. Plus, our men don’t have to hit the gym for next summer. ‘Cause with all those loose-fitting designs you’ll hardly see that extra five kilos.

DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

This time twin-brothers Dean and Dan Caten took the movie American Gigolo as their inspiration for the spring summer 2011 collection. It’s an ambitious choice, since the suits Richard Gere wore in the move were designed by Giorgio Armani. But the collection wasn’t about the look of Gere, it was about the luxurious lifestyle these guys lead and their attitude.

So the model looked tanned, handsome, in great shape and were dressed in tight trousers and unbuttoned shirts. The once ultra ultra low DSquared-jeans appeared with high waist and a flare – so that means you will have to get rid of that belly, boys. Jeans were mixed with (shiny) shirts, blue was the main color besides bright colors like red and green.

The overall look was rather dressed with a casual feel like we’ve seen before this week in Milan.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2011 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Milan.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

If someone would have said Armani showed his pre-fall collection today, we would have believed that person. The summer inspiration was hard to find in the Giorgio Armani show. Almost every look existed of a pair of long pants and a jacket. No shorts, no Tees, no airy fabrics.

Besides Giorgio chose to use very dark colors like deep blue and black, only once in a while alternated by a hint of light gray, green or yellow. No summery prints or colorful excesses, just one or two stripes and checks. Many of the models did wear sunglasses (with circular and yellow glasses) but that was not enough to give us a feeling of summer.

Jackets really were the hot item of the collection, double breasted, waisted, more sportive, leather and linen. They had striking buttons and sometimes a handkerchief popped out of the front pocket.

Another item Giorgio introduced was the waistcoat. Maybe that was the reason he invited Ricky Martin to the show. Waistcoats and tight Tees have become this singer’s signature throughout the years.

The Armani models all walked with their hands in their casual trousers. The loose pleated trousers didn’t look spectacular, yet seemed very comfy.

And that’s exactly how we would describe this Giorgio Armani collection. As a good mix of comfortable, wearable clothes with some amazing well-tailored jackets. It’s just that for summer we would have loved to see a little bit more light colors.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Three ninjas dressed in black dramatically lit a big Olympic Flame at the courtyard of the Palazzo del Senato’s courtyard – it marked the start of the Roberto Cavalli show but also the celebration of his 40th anniversary.

Instead of digging into his heritage of rich hippie westcoast rock-dandy dressing a la Lenny Kravitz (those were the most interesting and exciting collections of Cavalli) the designer got stuck in black/white/blue suits mixed with animalprints at shirts and kerchiefs. Wild were the pants and shirts with big flowerprints Cavalli saw in Indonesia – but somehow it all looked too uninspired and a bit hurried. It’s a pity, because men’s fashion can use some spicy stuff.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Milan.

Pringle of Scotland Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

New Wave seems a trend this Milan Fashion Week. After two soundtracks of Talking Heads, today the British rock band Franz Ferdinand was playing at the Pringle show. Alex Kapranos and Nick McCartney were present to play an acoustic set.

Yet there was a second reason why the boys were at the Pringle show. They appeared to both have designed a piece of knitwear for the label. The singer and the guitarist were among several Scottish artist who’d designed a limited edition design for the 195^th anniversary of Pringle.

McCarthy’s sweater was named Sign for Strength and had the artist’s handwriting on it. Kapranos named his design The Execution of the perfect swing and replaced Pringle’s logo by a golfer swinging on a gallows. They didn’t wear their creations themselves today.

Apart from the limited edition sweaters the rest of the very small collection (of 16 pieces) had more good knitwear pieces in it. The woollen cardigans will be too hot for summer. Yet the almost transparent knitted tops will do just fine.

Furthermore we saw stiff shirts, bright blue coats and the brand’s signature (the Argyle pattern) in a top. It was not really a full collection. Sixteen looks is a bit thin and we actually thought the show was rather boring.

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