When two designers like Dean and Dan Caten mark their 20th anniversary, one can expect an over the top celebration. The duo did not disappoint — at least on the frolic front — with a great venue and live entertainment.
Heavy rain did not withhold guests from flocking to the Hangar Bicocca in Milan on Friday night, where Anselm Kiefer’s installation “The Seven Heavenly Palaces” served as backdrop for a fashion show. There was one recurring look — skinny denim pants with cowboy boots, plus outerwear options ranging from common puffers to lumberjack jackets inspired by the duo’s home and native land. This looked best when the Canadian mountaineer took on a rock ’n’ roll guise in parkas generously lined with fur and styled with matching trapper hats.
The highlight was a surprise performance by Mary J. Blige, who walked out for the finale dressed in an embroidered burgundy tuxedo, followed by the twins lip-singing to her rendition of U2’s “One.” It was her birthday, too.
The DSquared show was all about an ideal tiki lounge, with gorgeous girls and Vegas gods. The vacationlike atmosphere — white sand-covered runway, cha-cha and mambo rhythms — didn’t divert attention from the collection, which mixed the brand’s glamorous look with a more mature, elegant style. Looking to voluptuous beauties of the Fifties, the duo put the focus on the waist via short hourglass-shaped bustier dresses padded at the hips to exaggerate the curves. Elsewhere, ladylike puffed frocks were cheap viagra internet layered with yards of tulle, while another dress featured a skirt done in laser-cut leather petals. Cocoon-shaped caban coats were worked in glossy, bold-hued crocodile, animal-printed ponyskin and textured metallic fabrics, and paired variously with culottes and embroidered retro briefs.
‘James Dean crashed with his plane on a tropical island and adapts’, that was in short the story that inspired the Caten-twins to design their ss14 DSquared-collection. The show opened with a model taking a shower under a tropical waterfall wearing nothing than a pair of briefs from the duo’s new underwear and swimwear-line. The James Dean the duo imagined chopped off his cotton pants at mid-calf, but kept his biker jacket. Also in hun survival-wardrobe: Bermuda shorts with tropical motifs and rockabilly T-shirts, slouchy, laser-cut shorts and jackets made from a lightweight, waterproof fabric.
The Fifties flavor was felt throughout — on a curtain print, for example, which evolved into cropped pants and jackets, as well as in eveningwear.
Dan and Dean Caten took us back to the 1940s with a muscular Karmen Pedaru opening their menswear inspired show. Her hairy evening gown (which caused for a nipple slip to happen) was followed by line up of double breasted suits and high hats. Tight skirts, accentuated waists, fur details, chunky jewelry and rich colors really brought the forties back to life. Beautiful tailored coats and wide legged pants were some of the best pieces. Touches of metallic added that modern touch. Leave out the crazy hats and the rest of the excessively used accessories and you’ve got yourself a perfectly wearable jazz-inspired fall collection.
While most labels hire more and more asian models, Dean and Dan only sent all black models down their Milan runway. They wore casual ready to wear designs and were given a geek-y touch by high hats and nerdy glasses.
The show’s setting took us back to the twenties Jazz Age (there was even a small strip performance going on in the backdrop), but the clothes looked modern and youthful. Drop crotch Jeans with rolled up legs were matched with white shirts and styled off in many different ways. Combined with knitted sweaters, checked waistcoats, shiny tuxedo jackets and always finished with a bow tie or a tie in a fun color or print.
To make sure it all wouldn’t feel to gimmick-y the designers took (quite) a few steps back for the finale. Over thirty men dressed in neutral shaded underwear, a pretty sight to end this Milan Fashion Week with.
The DSquared-collection reminded of hard-core club gear, with Dean and Dan Caten using Village People leather caps, safety pin chains, tangles of black crucifixes, cobweb embroidery and neon and leopard-print accents to sex up their standard acts: sharp tailoring with cropped jackets and fitted pants, form-fitting white shirts, distressed denim and the like.
It’s the dream of any teenage girl; going to her prom in a designer dress. A prom dress designed by Dean and Dan from Dsquared might not be her first option, but the duo sure proved they know how to stage a prom show, including disco balls and a live band.
Their high school prom designs were pretty much everyday clothes. Like cropped trousers combined with leather jackets. Or croc leather pencil skirts worn with mohair sweaters. And those camel colored pants mixed with a denim jacket. Or that toggle coat with leopard collar worn with a check shirt and tight jeans.
Like always at Dsquared the styling was playful and casual. Bright shades of green, pink, purple and yellow alternated each other in goofy streetwise looks topped off by eye-catching accessories.
Models had big sixties hair, pointed glasses, chunky necklaces, funky (odd-fitting) hats and big brooches. Some of them even smoked on the runway, as if to emphasize the rebellion/youthful aspect of the show and the collection.
The show was closed by a couple of ballgowns, but even those weren’t all too serious. But never mind if their outfits matched with the dresscode or not; never a dull moment with these Dsquared high school girls
High School was the setting at the DSquared show and the model acted like little schoolboys, smoking on the runway and throwing paper planes at teacher. A retro classroom was set at the end of the runway. The models tried to behave like rebels, but the collection was far from that. Just DSquared-clothes: distressed, low-rise denim, fitted biker jackets and college-style shirts. But a great theme to play with. And there were actually some great outfits and garments, like the mohair & angora Fair Isle sweaters, a nice tweed car coat and some fitted suits.
Dean and Dan Caten, the twin-brothers of D-Squared got inspired by the coolest summer festivals for their spring- summer collection 2012. Colorful maxi-dresses, denim shorts, destroyed concert-T-shirts, a denim jacket, a hat and high heeled Wellington-boots is all you need. But of course, a real festival-groupie does have all those items in her closet already!
So it was just a nice theme to get the show on stage, it seemed an excuse tot present all kinds of casual summerwear from long dresses to tank-tops and shorts. Nothin new so far.
Today Dsquared twins Dean and Dan took us on a European summer vacation. They showed us Denmark, Greece (the island Mykonos), Italy (Florence) and England, by presenting pictures of those places as backdrop, that is.
In every European destination we came we were presented with another way of dressing, all of them styles we’ve seen before at Dsquared. There was the outdoor man with his lumberjack checks, the handsome (and very bronzed) beach boy in his tiny swimwear, the sharply dressed holiday man (in modern suit jackets in multiple shades) and the party boy (dressed in shiny tuxedos).
It was a nice trip and there surely was a lot to see. The clothes all looked very wearable and commercial and the mix of colors was fun. Any guy will be able to pick up something he likes in this collection, yet we were not really surprised by something new or refreshing.
Dean and Dan couldn’t be bothered with that concern; in the afternoon they were already celebrating the launch of their new perfume with a large group of international press.