Chanel Haute Couture Paris SS2013

At Chanel couture the feeling was fairytale like, yet scary at the same time. Dressed in perfect light shaded lace ensembles Lagerfeld’s models walked his path through the green. Their eyes dark and decorated with feathers, their faces hidden behind large droopy headpieces. They were classy ladies dressed in playful volume skirts and ribbon tweeds jackets. And how chic were those over the knee lace boots?! After hemlines dropped a few inches (midcalf length) and Lagerfeld added color in form of floral embroideries, evening dresses appeared both chic and dramatic. Evening dresses and two wedding dresses at the end that might just include Lagerfeld’s thought on the momentarily much discussed gay marriage in France.

Individuals by AMFI Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013

For the very first time Individuals by AMFI, a collection designed by student, will have the honor of opening Amsterdam Fashion Week. We caught up with Peter Leferink, Principal Design Lecturer at AMFI and creative Manager of Individuals, to talk about the design process, the collection and the success of Individuals.

About Inviduals
AMFI’s Individuals project is a 6 month minor that BA students at AMFI can take during their third or at the beginning of their fourth and final year. A total of around 24 – 30 students from the 3 different departments Fashion & Design, Fashion & Management and Fashion & Branding together design, produce and deliver to retail a collection for the school’s label Individuals.

Why is it important that Individuals gives a show during Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“First of all it is a big honor. For the students a show at the end of their period with Individuals. Those 12 minutes of fame are quite fundamental to the process. Showing in a professional environment like AFW gives the students such a boost. This year we were asked to open the fashion week, which is the ultimate moment and compliment. It means people take us seriously and appreciate what we do with our students. To me personally it means a lot. The fact that our show is held in the Gashouder is extra special too; when I graduated from the C Montaigne Academy in 1994 with a small group of students we rented the same Gashouder for our show. At that time we felt it was the coolest spot in Amsterdam, I believe we had to pay 400 Gulden for it. Being able to see our students shine there as well makes it very special.”

What is the most important aspect of holding a show?
“If you bring it down to the basics a show is a form of PR. You want to reach the press, the retailers and your audience. Yet as a school we believe there a more platforms on which you can show your collections and creativity. There is lots of new media via which you can reach your audience quickly and effectively. But, to be honest, for a lot of students a catwalkshow is the ultimate highlight; the spotlights, the people, the camera’s clicking and the feeling that comes with such a live event. It gives them such excitement, which is hard to match. Therefore I feel catwalkshows will always be there, even though lots of new platform (digital or non digital) will be introduced.”

How did it happen that Individuals is opening Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“We have been showing, with smaller and larger shows, during Amsterdam Fashion Week since the start. This definitely is the icing on the cake for AMFI and Individuals. Especially since around 800 extra young people, students and teachers will be able to see the show through live stream, thanks to Vodafone. I’m very excited how it will all turn out, but I am sure it will be a great happening.”

What part of the collection will eventually be sold?
“It’s hard to put that in percentages, since it depends on the styling of the show, which is planned for the second week of January. We always create Production Pieces, which retailers can buy and Unique Pieces (for the catwalk and photoshoots). Eventually the Production Pieces will be sold in a total of 10 boutiques ranging from high end casual to designer/luxury across the Netherlands.”

Is the collection sold in your own AMFI store as well?
“The Inviduals sales to retailers is organized via our By Amfi store. Every season we change the store in a way that it matches perfectly with the collection and invite our retailers there. After a period of about three weeks the store becomes a By Amfi store again; a very pleasant and dynamic collaboration.”

One of the design students spoke to us about inspiration, colors and materials

What was the inspiration for the upcoming collection?
“We were inspired by the current state of the world. We provide a contemporary solution for how to deal and live within it, partly inspired by Darwin’s theory of survival of the fittest. We draw the line. We tell the story of the Neo-Pioneer who dares to settle within the unsettled. For fall/winter 2013/2014 we’ve communicated it like this

A multitude of choices has resulted in an inability to move forward in the world. The time has come to confidently step forward and set the underlying tone for this generation. Armed with a desire for progress, we draw the line in order to create an enhanced state of protection. We attract because we dare. We survive because we protect. We are an energy to be reckoned with. We are the Neo-Pioneers and ELEMENT is the key to our survival. 

This collection boldly draws the line by settling within the unsettled. An action towards survival defined by a magnetic attraction of angular and curved shapes. A mix of unconventional fabrics sculpts this modern day armour. Each piece makes its own statement, building a positive tension thus, empowering the wearer. An air of artificiality emphasizes the evolution of crucial details in design.

What can we expect to see?
“We will see colours that are derived from a dark uniform palette. Think about a dark oil stain on a wet pavement. Furthermore we want to put the spotlight on the strong and the vulnerable parts of a woman in order to provide her the protection that she needs to face the world. As for the fit, think pronounced angular and curved shapes mixed with a touch of tailored design. We chose new materials that are more technological than we have ever used before. We also used leather and other materials that enhance protection and are key iNDiViDUALS materials are used in every collection.”

Individuals By AMFI will present their latest collection on Wednesday night, the 23rd of January at 07.00 P.M.

See our gallery below for some sneak peeks of the collection.

 

Elise Kim Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013

Elise Kim has had quite a few busy months. She has held a show in her hometown Saigon, has been making tailor made clothes for her clients and went out and about to meet new lots of new people. But she is now fully focused on her brand new fall winter collection, which she will show next week. It’s part of her trilogy of which we’ve already seen part one and part two and from what Elise has shown us so far it sure looks promising. Expect a chic, sexy collection, made with lots of handwork and a few very modern techniques as well. Oh and Elise is not only showing clothes this time around…

Why did you decide to show again during AFW?
“I chose to show at AFW because this collection is the third part of a trilogy and the first two parts I already showed at Amsterdam Fashion Week. It is nice to close my trilogy here at the Gashouder location at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. It is a nice exposure for my new collection and also for my clients and press to come and see the show. Recently I started to like to do fashion shows, it gives me such a kick.”

Does the third part of your trilogy have as much handwork as the second part?
“Although I still have handwork in this collection, it is much less compared to the last collection. Handwork is part of who I am, I really like doing that. When I have a lot of stress it is my meditation doing handwork.”

Do you get help creating your designs?
“I work together with 2 seamstresses. Recently, an intern joined us, she helps with some small things and the handwork. I’m really picky with choosing interns, if I don’t have a click with someone, it’s very difficult to work together. It would block my creativity, then I’d rather work on my own. Since the team is so small, I personally cut all the fabrics myself and prepare all the work so that the seamstress can put together the clothes as fast as possible.”

What was your inspiration for the new collection?
“This collection is inspired by a darker dream when one is in a deep sleep, but sometimes wakes up from seeing bizarre images or gets lost in another world. Once I read a short story and I was inspired by this sentence: Night is strange, night is surreal. Night is when you dream, and not because you are asleep.”

How is that darker dream visible in your f/w2013 designs?
“It’s a collection with lots of black, cobalt blue and some bright colors (reddish orange, orange and fuchsia) every now and then. It was also in the weirdest dream I saw while making this collection; I saw accent colors, sparkling in the deepest night. You can see dark clothing pieces with bright embroideries or embellishments.”

What else can we expect?
“I’ve fallen in love again with leather, there are also different kinds of wool, silk and cotton. Besides the materials we used different kind of techniques, such as laser-cut, embroidery and beading. I will show a total of 28 looks: 45 pieces of clothing. For this collection we also have shoes and bags, in collaboration with Jarah Stoop and Jelske Peterson.”

How would you describe the collection?
“Every collection reflects how I feel at the moment. This is a different collection, but it is still Elise Kim’s style. The graphic, feminine, edgy elements and the use of embroidery and handwork are all there. The Elise Kim woman is growing up, she’s sexier and mysterious, yet still my designs are very chic and wearable.”

Elise Kim will present her new collection on Saturday 26 January at 09.00 p.m.

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013

No Amsterdam Fashion Week without the Spijkers-sisters. Once again Truus and Riet Spijkers are presenting their latest SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers collection. A rock ‘n roll collection with a sweet fifties touch and a muse that is, for a change, still alive. We caught up with Truus to talk about the upcoming SIS a/w2013 collection.

What inspired you for your upcoming collection?
“We thought of a rock ‘n roll / high school theme. Don’t expect lots of black leather; you have to think of the rock ‘n roll of the fifties, a sweet kind of rock ‘n roll. It also has something surrealistic, which becomes visible through the prints. Like with every collection we chose a woman as our muse. I can not tell you who it is. But this time it is a rock ‘n roll lady and she is still alive, which is new for us.”

What kind of winter collection can we expect?
“There will be heavy and light pieces brought together in a somewhat airy collection. Since we’re sold all over the world we didn’t necessarily want to produce a very warm and heavy collection. There has to be something for every occasion and overall the feeling needs to be fresh and light. A SIS woman for instance can wear one of our lace tops underneath an angora sweater. Colors will be winter shades like black, blue and brown, yet done in a fresh way.”

How will the SIS woman be dressed next winter?
Overall the collection has designs for every day, yet there might be one or two looks that are more for a night out. We’ve worked with lace, cotton, silk, crepe de chine, angora and some lovely knitwear out of which we’ve made beanies and scarves. We’ve created super soft suits made of a wool and lycra mix. We’ve produced T-shirts with a dog print and there is another cute print, which we’ve produced in two different color schemes. In every look the waist is the focus point and our models will wear wide belts to stress that.”

Are you excited about showing at the much larger show area at the Westergasterrein?
“I haven’t really thought about that. Let’s just hope the catwalk is not much longer than usually. A normal fashion show is already pretty though for our young models. But the new show area seems like an exciting space which will lead to a different experience. Let’s hope enough people will come so we can fill up the large area.”

What are your plans for 2013 regarding SIS?
“Since last season we have new selling points in France and Italy, which we’re very excited about. Before we mostly sold SIS in the Netherlands and Japan, now we’re really hitting the market in Europe. Yet we’re also planning on extending our sales within the Dutch market. This year we’ve investigated why SIS is not sold extremely well in our home country and found out not everyone knows SIS. A lot of people don’t even know we have a second line and think we’re much more expensive (the Spijkers en Spijkers collection is three times more expensive than the SIS collection). In 2013 we would like to work on becoming more visible and known in our own country. We would for instance love to be sold at the Bijenkorf.”

On the 24th of January the new SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers collection will be shown at 06.00 p.m.

 

Streetstyle Trend: Classic Camel

Some trends start on the streets, others begin on the catwalk. The camel coat is one of those catwalk wonders. From MaxMara and Chloe to Gucci, Hermes and Michael Kors; it was in every show a few seasons ago and now it’s a big streetstyle trend. Models, bloggers, editors, photographers; everyone is sporting the classic coat look. And we can’t blame them. Those camel coats look both soft and warm and go well with just about anything. Pick a XL version and you’re joining in on the oversize fall trend as well. Wear it big or tie things up with a small belt around the waist. Just keep it classic and you can’t go wrong!

Streetwear Trend: Make a statement

You have the right shoes, this season’s it-bag and you’re rocking a splendid dress, yet the real show stopper probably is your necklace. 2012 has been all about the statement necklaces. The bolder, brighter and crazier shaped the better. Streetstyle icons like Elisa Nalin, Miroslava Duma and Anna dello Russo made head’s turn in the streets with their mesmerizing jewelry. And did you see Elena Perminova’s legs necklace paired with this season’s it-sweater by Kenzo? Really, when it comes to this streetstyle trend anything goes. Fruit, flowers, birds and ice creams make some outstanding necklaces. And you can even try and DIY your very own. Just combine it with a colorful look and let the necklace do the talking…

Streetstyle Trend: Checks for chicks

J. Crew, Marni, Jonathan Saunder; all designers who opted for checks this fall. J.W. Anderson probably scored this biggest hit with it’s checked sweaters, which we spotted in the streets of Milan and London. Funny how something so simple can become such a hit, right? Well, if you have any fashion item that has a bold check print you should start wearing it. How nice is it we can start wearing checked shirts tied around our waists again? Tweeds, pied-de-poules, tartan and hound tooth checks will do the job too. Don’t hold back, wear a fashionable kind of check.

 

Dutch Fashion Awards 2012: Collections

For the ones who couldn´t attend Friday night´s spectacle or for those who want to take an extra look at the designs: here´s our gallery of collection images. From last year´s winner Conny Groenewegen, to Fair Luxury Award winner Elsien Gringhuis, Dutch Incubator Award winner (for the second year in a row) Hyun Yeu, Dutch Touch Paris Award winner Anne de Grijff, Marga Weimans and of course, Mattijs, who went home with two awards.

Click through the images of Elsien´s beautifully colored sustainable collection, dream away with Anne´s airy pleated creations, be amazed by Marga´s architectural looks, get overwhelmed by Hyun Yeu´s structured menswear looks and see just ow talented these young Dutch designers actually are.

Streetwear Trend: (Take it) to the floor

Maxi dresses, maxi skirts; they’ve been around in fashion for a while now. But since fashion is always evolving even these maxi pieces are slowly changing. First it was all about the floral prints, then we only had eyes for the pleated skirts and now it’s all about showing some skin. Be fully on trend in a transparent maxi dress or a skirt with a high slit and don’t forget the hi-low trend, which is actually a mix of mini and maxi. Many of the streetstyle sensation in the gallery above master the art of revealing while keeping things classy. Other just look stylish, long and lean in their floor sweeping pieces. Unfortunately it’s not a very practical trend, but it sure makes a up for a beautiful image.

Streetwear Trend: Graphic Gallore

MiuMiu, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Versus all had the same kind of seventies suits in their fall collections. Suits with bright graphic prints that are now all over the place. Just like the bold and colorful ones Giambattista Valli presented on his runway. A look that takes some guts to pull off. Guts and a strong pair of shoes that keep everything in balance. Velvet ankle shoes perhaps? Or a pair of suede peep toe beauties? Just keep it strong and outspoken, ‘cause this just is not the trend for wall flowers.

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