First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Going Green

As design goes green and the possibilities of green fashion are being reconsidered the title of this kick-off of New York Fashion Week might give us high hopes. Yet green in New York is the shade of a smart mixture of nature and artifice unified in disciplined outfits with military references and work wear details. Though stern in principle the outcome is ultra feminine and tailored showing a defined, sinuous silhouette. The green hues range from olive, army and loden to tender and marbled leave shades.

Lacoste shows sculpted leather dresses with diagonal zips. Where Richard Chai stages neat tailoring in stern uniforms finished with a glamorous polish.

Rag & Bone has chosen aviation as a starting point in a free interpretation of vintage flight suits and flight attendant uniforms. Urban nomads, dressed by Nicholas K, wear sheltering layers of intriguing textures in a myriad of greens, where the modern-day Amazones of Prabal Gurung show utilitarian city-combat styles. A sturdy look that is inspired by the Ukraine’s Asgarda tribes.

Hopefully this trend symbolizes ‘the green light’ towards excitement.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Alexander Wang was looking for something different in his fall 2013 collection. No neoprene, no modern techno-fabrics. Instead he went for the natural, fuzzy and warm: mohair, alpaca, astrakhan and anything that reminded him of hair. The result was an interesting and even edgy collection. Lots of outerwear of course with brushed denim and knit skirts. Romy coats were  shaped by thick folds whether exaggerated lapels or tucks that created a rounded shoulder and tapered sleeve. Many of the coats were dark and sometimes even aggressive, but beautiful too. Wang handled the volume and fabric density with elegance. Wang’s other major element was the tuxedo in satin.

Prabal Gurung Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

For his fall 2013 collection Prabal Gurung took inspiration from an article about US military body armor for women which he read in Time Magazine. The basic idea of the collection was empowerment. Gurung feminized the classic army-wear of olive green and navy tailoring inventively, slimming the cuts, accentuating waistlines with belts and leather harnesses, and topping off day-wear with white fur. Chunky knits and slinky satin skirts and blouses featured fleshy cutouts and epaulet details. Skirts were shown with thigh-high footwear that approximated leg braces. With women dressed like this we can win the war.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

The theme of the Lacoste-collection, designed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista, was ‘an imaginary Antarctic expedition’. Well, it all came together on the morning snow-blizzard Nemo was expected in New York. It turned out to be a collection with a futuristic twist, not only about heritage (the label is celebrating it’s 80th anniversary this year). Baptista worked Lacoste’s signature cotton piqué fabric in new ways, sometimes mixed with  jersey, leather and even foam. The overall feel was more structured. The collection also offered glacier and latitude-longitude prints on some outerwear.
For menswear the designer repeated the prints on coats and jackets, combining leather with wool on sweatshirts and pants for an almost armorlike touch. The color-blocking on voluminous sweatshirts looked sharp.

Edwin Oudshoorn Catwalk Fashion Show AFW FW2012

The collection of Edwin Oudshoorn in 10 words.  Drama. Nostalgic. Couture. Dark & burned colors. White & pastel. Butterflies and fur.

Sophie#1234567+ Catwalk Fashion Show AFW FW2012

The collection of Sophie#1234567+ in 10 words: Colorful & Grey. Warm & Elegant. Men’s wardrobe. Mixing fabrics & textures.

 

Claes Iversen Catwalk Fashion Show AFW FW2013

The collection of Claes Iversen in 10 words. Sculptural. Feminine. Elegant. White. Black. Camel. Strong. Mature. Modern. Futuristic.

SIS by Spijkers and Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show AFW FW2012

The collection of SIS by Spijkers and Spijkers in 10 words: Rock ‘n Roll. Modern classics. Daredevils. Soft & hard. Feminine. Sexy. Fun.

LAB-show AFW FW2013: Fredfarrowbrittavelontan & Atelier Milada

The LAB-collection of Fredfarrowbrittavelontan in 10 words: Fantasy. Textures. Deconstructed. Laidback couture. Nature colors. Abstract expressionists. Workwear.

 

Atelier Milada by Ann Boogaerds in 10 words: Rich. Sculpted. Misty  blue. Princess. Feminin. Textures. Elegance. Personal story.

 

 

 

LAB-show AFW FW2013: Tessa Wagenvoort & Laura Smith

Travel-pictures were the inspiration for Tessa Wagenvoort’s collection. The designer from The Hague was the first to show in the LAB-cyclus at Amsterdam Fashion Week. Wagenvoort wanted to translate the often overwhelming feeling of being in another place and culture into prints. She used an old photo-technique to realize her handmade prints.

 

The British designer Laura Smith focused at vintage uniforms and a hippie-like beachstyle. Shirts, pants and fluid skirts form the basis of the collection. The style is minimal with sober colors and brick-red. Texture is more important than color.

 

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