Maison the Faux SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Like last season the Maison the Faux fashion show was wrong in so many ways. There was a choir of three naked (okay they did wear some kind of thong) women making monkey noises while a garden and water fountain served as a backdrop. A garden (of Eden?) from which male and female models appeared sporting an array of almost undefinable ensembles. Crazy materials, over the top print, hysterical use of color, bizarre silhouettes and out of this world accessories. The guys looked kinda girly, while the ladies had something savage-like about them. A lot of nudity was involved, but as far as fashion was concerned we couldn’t really discover one style or trend. But perhaps Maison the Faux can do without all of that and just create original pieces, made with a big sense of humor (if you get the joke, that is) that stand out and make a statement. Either way, the show wasn’t over till the three naked ladies sang, so Rihanna’s ‘Diamonds’ completed the cray cray controlled chaos. Maison the faux; so wrong it almost felt right.

Marga Weimans SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Right before the show Marga didn’t want to reveal too much about her collection ATELIER yet. She did say it would be more wearable than before. Something we didn’t immediately feel as the first five looks appeared. They were four square shaped looks, almost like white origami papers cut, creased and crumbled. Worn with ‘shoes’ made out black tape and architectonic hair they cut an impressive figure. As the show carried on we could see the designs being worn in real life. Probably not in the tram to work, but they’ll sure do well on a fancy cocktail party. With each piece Marga gave a little bit of an insight in her atelier. Starting off with raw experimental model, evolving into wearable fashion. Leather dresses in brown, bright blue and army green were followed up by batik-like dresses and digitally printed pieces. Combined with heavy vintage leather the softer arty printed parts formed a fine series of contradictory looks.

MLY SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Ten years after Emily Hermans’ first fashion week show she returned to the Amsterdam catwalk today with a kaleidoscopic collection. The MLY designer made sure her comeback didn’t pass by unnoticed. A number of 45 womenswear looks shown by 16 different models painted her SS2015 picture. Divided into three series, one in tones of red, the other in hues of green and a third portraying a tropical color mix, the collection was inspired by all collections from the past ten years. Overall a combination of beautiful self developed digital prints and a wearable feminine fit. Pencil skirts, printed tops, summer dresses and short cardigans, suitable for just about any occasion and probably very appealing to the variety of Dutch woman in general. In between the sea of bright colored prints beige and black were the basic of the collection. Models sported big curly hair, red lips and colorful eye shadow, eye catching beige shoes and a fun accessory in the shape of a cap, backpack or bouquet every now and then. Might the clothing not be interesting enough the sustainable message behind MLY probably is. MLY is increasingly regarded as a green label. She uses a lot of eco certified yarns and natural, biodegradable fibers. Printed items are largely digitally printed, which consumes considerably less water than other printing processes. Also, biodegradable inks are used for printing and the major part of the production process takes place in the Netherlands. Now such a story just deserves 45 different looks.

Dorhout Mees SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Inspired by water (or more specific the ability of water crystals to transform in certain environments) and it’s many faces Esther Dorhout Mees presented yet another flawless womenswear collection, named “O”, today. After the backdrop video set the mood and waves were projected onto the catwalk long and lean models on high geometric, asymmetrical heels (which gave the illusion to be wet) with wet hair ‘walked on water’. They sported elegant creations visibly inspired by water. Light blue and white (true water tones) were the main colors, a touch of pink added at the end. Fabrics were both airy and shiny, reflecting the attributes of water. Breast and waist were the focus in the designs silhouettes, with a few strong shoulders here and there. Always delicate and sophisticated and therewith creating a collection full of the finest cocktail chic ensembles. Strapless, structured dresses, midriff baring, ruffled (resembling waves) tops, sheer (representing the transparency of water) pants worn with high waisted underpants and maxi dresses with T-shirt shaped sleeves had XL pleats. Fabrics were airy, floating (like water) in the air as the models slowly walked the runway. An extra beautiful effect, which especially a few creations with layers of the finest, thinnest fabrics on top of each other (like a book) were able to show off. Mirrored prints (representing the reflecting aspect of water) added to the elegance of the collection as a nice subtle scent (yes, Dorhout Mees want to trigger all senses) completed the Dorhout Mees water world.

Verena Michels and Zyanya Keizer SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

For her project “Trümmerfrau” Berlin based Verena Michels got inspired by the esthetic of rest materials (army tents, carpet bags and rope sleeves). It made her come up with a collection full fabrics (hand)made out of wool and small other pieces of collection material). It gave her designs a certain edge or rawness if you will. Oversized knits, slouchy sweaters and loose fitting pants looked cosy, casual and practical at the same time No cocktail attire, but perfect looks for a day in the city. Verena definitely wasn’t the first designers to choose this ‘garbage/rest material-theme’ this week. Yet she absolutely gave it her own twist and we can only applaud for these young designers paying attention to and adding a critical note to the way we consume.

Zyanya Keizer was very dark. The hair (worn straight and loose), the make-up (dark red lips), the smoke on the runway, her color palette of choise (blacks and reds) and the silhouettes of her creations (long and lean combined with strong shoulders and high collars). With every design she gave new dimensions to the female silhouette, adding structured fringes and ruffles in all kinds of shapes and sizes. Made out of fur and leather they added to the heaviness of the collection. A collection including lots of stage outfits for the likes of Gaga and Perry, yet don’t seem too practical for day to day wear.

By Brown SS2014 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Models with soaking wet hair and a touch of turquoise underneath their eyes paraded the By Brown (Brown clothes before) catwalk on Saturday evening. They seemed to have just walked out of the sea, onto the beach on a hot summer day. A day perfect for pairing airy dresses and summer knits. A day for asymmetrical slouchy pants and pleated. Touches of leather and fiercely accentuated shoulders for later on. Whites, sandy tones and hints of aqua and yellow added to the summery feeling of the show. Some of the pieces of the RESTLESS SYMMETRY collection might never end up in a ‘real woman’s wardrobe’, but there were plenty of elegant wearable pieces (a designing skill designer Melanie Brown developed while working at Stills) that would. It was Browns first big fashion week show in Amsterdam and she certainly left her mark.

Mirte van Wijngaarden and Maaike Fransen SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Please enjoy our images. Our review will follow shortly.

Ready to Fish SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Ilja Visser’s Ready to Fish seemed to be revived today. It sparkled and shined more than ever. Not literally though, the brand is way to casual for sequins and beads. No, it was the RTF bright colored (with orange, lavender, greens and blues), kinetic art (a type of art which is all about movement and gravity) inspired summer print and it’s use of sporty fabrics that made it feel extremely fresh combined with sand, black and white tones. Though inspired by a man’s silhouette the simple dresses and structured sweaters, boyish shorts and casual coats looked like the perfect clean SS2015 wardrobe additions for any, and especially the Dutch, woman. The towering high shoes will not be bought in such big quantities, then again they’re the perfect key items to attract the attention of A listers (Alicia Keys and Gaga both wore creations of Ilja before). SS2015 is not around the corner just yet, but Ilja is already sending her positive summer vibes.

Fernanda Fernandes and Joelle & Bregje SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Brazilian born Fernanda Fernandes (Isn’t that a perfect stage name?) showed her work for the very first time during her Amsterdam Fashion Week LAB show today. A show which kicked off surprisingly, by the sound of whispers and people walking on a completely dark runway holding candles in their hands. A church bell sound followed by loud monkey noise and then the models appeared. They were covered in a mix of patent leather, lame, fur, feathers and sheer materials. Corsets, capes, a Jezus inspired crown, laced up boots, masks, chokers and wide coats stressed the religious part of the collection. While several monkey printed items added a touch of humor. Fernandes closed with a large red cape embellished with gold and an ivory look with angel wings. Sensuality and edginess combined in her ‘Quinto Simia’ collection (translated Fith Monkey). We’re curious to see what’s next.

Textile designer Joelle & fashion designer Bregje experienced their fashion week debut today by showing their IINUA collection. A selection of perfectly tailored looks, which weren’t entirely new to us. During FashionClash Joelle Boers already showed some of it. Graphic prints connected the dots in their sporty chic collection, which included both cute dresses and sportive parkas. Hoodies and pointy shoulders played a big part, while towering high shoes designed by Chris van den Elzen and some arty facial decoration completed the contrasting yet harmonious looks. As Joelle and Bregje took their bow at the end we could see that contradiction in their looks as well. A contrast which seemed to work pretty awesome united in IINUA.

Iris van Herpen x Zero Performance SS2015 Amsterdam Fashion Week

Assuming we were attending a regular fashion show, we entered the Gashouder on Thursday night to see Iris van Herpen. But there was nothing regular about this show, we were in for a treat! Instead of the average collection presentation Iris van Herpen teamed up with dance organization Zero (ZERO by Nanine Linning) and surprised us with a modern dance performance. A group of dancers dressed in Iris van Herpen’s black creations from her couture collection of 2012 moved around the catwalk in their very own particular way. Their performance had a sense of modernity, it felt futuristic, yet at the same time it seemed very creature-like and close to nature, mostly because of the costumes. Fashion wise the story didn’t evolve through the act, but a true spectacle it was!

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