Just Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

This was good old Cavalli-stuff: smoky-eyed models in low skinny pants and sheer tops, animal prints and leather jackets. The Just Cavalli-collection was sexy and young, bohemian and rock ‘n roll. Just what his younger clientele wants.

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Today it became clear designer Domenico and Stefano are ending their D&G line with their heads held high. ‘Cause together with their announcement to end with the brand’s diffusion line they showed one of their strongest D&G collections in a while.

After florals and letters, the collection was fully inspired by scarf prints. The most colorful, rich scarf prints came by on blouses, trousers, tops, skirts, dresses and even on shoes and bags! The more clashing the prints were, the better the outfits.

All looks were styled to the extreme; with golden necklaces, earrings, bracelets and sunnies all worn at once. We even saw some larger than life floppy hats. But no matter how over the top the looks were, you can’t blame the designers. They just made sure their very last D&G show was a party and they had fun with it.

And even though we’re sad to miss out on these kind of fun, effortless collections, we shouldn’t be too disappointed to see this second line go. According to the designers the change will lead to their Dolce & Gabbana collection becoming even stronger. Cheers to that!

And watch the video of the show below.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

The models at the Fendi-show looked like housewives from the Sixties with their beehive hair and pleated dresses with apron-fronts. The collection Karl Lagerfeld presented reminded us of women cooking, baking and cleaning dressed in stiff apron-like dresses, black and white ensembles, bermudas and jackets. It was a no nonsense chic, with the fly-eye shades and cotton jackets, featuring bare shoulderparts and soft, shapely cuts to match the full skirts.

The tufted fur coats of mustard and green fox, wide mesh striped knits and multiple bangles worn up the wrist had a homespun appeal. While the sleeveless cable-knit jumpers – oversized in cream or black with sheer back panels – and the little jackets added a more casual feeling.

John Richmond Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

With thick eyeliner and colorful lips Richmond’s models paraded on the Milan catwalk today. They looked sexy to the max in their shiny, see-through, embellished dresses. As the show went on the level of sexiness increased.

While some of the first looks seemed appropriate for a business meeting, many of the outfits appeared even too daring for a cocktail party. Like the long black sheer dress with the low v-neck, the mesh top with the strategically placed leather breast pockets or the white/sheer glitter dress with long fringes at the bottom. None of them looks which a lot of women would leave the house in.

Yet the Richmond women perhaps will. They will lunch in the skirt and blouse ensembles, they will join their husbands on a boat trip in some of the simple dresses and jackets and they will seduce others in the over the top sheer designs. It will be a perfect summer 2012.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

From the flowing, moody jewel-colored Seventies style to a more constructed, hard and geometric jazzy style – that’s the turn Gucci-designer Frida Giannini took this season. And this anniversary-collection looks quite different. Polished as ever, but with jazzy influences (flapper-dresses), references from the Twenties and Thirties, Louise Brooks, African Art and Man Ray. But also the geometric lines of the art deco style the American way – as in the Chrysler building – and the metallic surfaces. Giannini herself said in the show-notes she wanted to show an optical side of femininity, a sculptural glamor.

Well, glamorous it was, and polished but somehow it lacked a certain softness and sensuality. Maybe it’s because of the mix of equestrian elements like striped, double-breasted jockey-jackets, the green/ocre/white and black. Or the straight lines and hard metallics.

Hopefully we’ll find more of Gucci’s sensual warmth in the museum that’s soon to be opened in Florence.

 

 

Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show London ss2012

No doubt that the Roaring Twenties are the favorite era of the Spijkers-sisters. They picked this period – in which women tried to free themselves –  before as a source of inspiration. Spijkers en Spijkers are not alone in this for next summer, in New York there were more designers who were influenced by this stylish period, like Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Tory Burch.

Spijkers en Spijkers took the silhouette and used their signature geometric play, colors like black and white to form their collection. Dresses dominated the collection, a loose pantsuit here and there and fragile chains as decoration or part of the construction. Fringes added a frivolous detail.

 

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York ss2012

For a change, Marc Jacobs closed the New York Fashion Week. The Lexington Avenue Armory was decorated like a dance hall situated in the twenties.   As the Philip Glass opera Einstein on the Beach started, a sweeping gold curtain parted to reveal all the models waiting to hit the runway.

The collection was a cocktail of strange elements. Starting with the see-through plastic cowboy boots. And also: drop-waist flapper dresses, denim workwear, clear plastic sewn into skirts and dresses, sporty sweatshirts, and techno-checks.  Some of the silhouettes looked like last season’s narrow silhouettes, but there were also boxy, drop-waist shapes that reminded of the 1920’s. There was plenty of fringe,  bold-colored sequins and paillettes, and a lot of that clear plasticTextural experimentation was strong in this collection. To journalists backstage, Jacobs explained he didn’t want his collection “to feel real”.

 

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York ss2012

Ralph Lauren took inspiration from the The Great Gatsby, the movie he designed the clothes for in 1974. When he designed the clothes it started a mini Jazz Age at that time and Lauren’s career took off. It seems the time is ripe for an updated version of this style, especially now Baz Luhrmann is busy with a remake starring Leonardo Dicaprio and Carey Mulligan.

Lauren loves the feminine/masculine mix and that shows. There were  wallpaper floral t dresses,  pastel silk pajama pants, and “vintaged” cashmere sweaters with fake moth holes. For accessories: raffia platform sandals, embroidered and fringed bags, and delicate scarves.  As for the masculine side:  pinstriped three-piece suits with cropped pants, shorts, full trousers and the leather Perfecto jacket. For the evening Lauren introduced silver flapper dresses and column gowns.

 

 

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

Tommy Hilfiger presented a preppy, but less loud spring-collection. No outsized florals like other designers showd, but men’swear checks and subtle shirting stripes. There were some bright motifs in orange and blue, pink and green in Mod-like cuts and sometimes with matching element like swimsuit, skirt, bag and shoes.

Swimwear was an important theme, but there were plenty of shirts- and T-dresses, bi-color raincoats and soft knits.

 

Trend Report FW2011: Let’s Get Crazy! – Beauty

Ladies, don’t try this at home! Unless you’re up for some kind of theme party, of course. ‘Cause these crazy beauty looks are best worn only on the runway.

Golden bags under your eyes (Gareth Pugh), highlighted strong brows (Frankie Morello), the nose of a Dalmation dog (Unique), some colorful confetti (Gray) or just  a big splash of red paint (Viktor & Rolf), these were the craziest make-up looks we spotted for fall/winter 2011/2012.

Check out the gallery & get inspired!

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