DelPozo Catwalk Fashion Show London FW2018

The Spanish label DelPozo switched New York for London and staged the show at the Royal Institute of British Architects. The collection was about the fuse of nature and art, with happy colors and simple, curving lines that followed the shapes of the body.

Elegant and sculptural leather belts done in lily-pad shapes cinched many a trouser and dress waist while big faux-fur flowers — in electric blue or bougainvillea pink — sat on the collars of coats, or covered small clutch bags.
Color combinations were offbeat, with some working a treat, as in a marine blue A-line dress with a bright yellow collar, a long cinnamon coat with a pale blue flower belt, and a pink dress with feather-light red tulle panels at the side.

Other combinations veered more toward the Neapolitan ice cream sundae — in particular the light brown and yellow exploded hound’s tooth capes and the pink, camel and cream color blocks on an A-line dress and trousers.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show London FW2018

This was Christopher Baileys last collection for Burberry. het is saying goodbye after 17 years and this collection seemed a reflection on his own time at the company.He worked in elements from the Burberry archives, and even prints that Burberry had done under license in the Sixties and Seventies. There were looks from the Eighties, too, and many from his own tenure.

This season, Burberry also created a capsule of reissued pieces from the Eighties and Nineties that went on sale immediately, and is selling its Rainbow Check collection, part of an initiative to support charities that help LGBTQ.
That rainbow check — and others — featured prominently in Saturday’s outing, which had a streetwear feel — and a retro one, too, what with the baggy shell suits, oversize zip-front jackets and check jackets that recalled Burberry’s chav days. Some of Bailey’s greatest hits, including shearling aviator jackets, capes and ponchos, military great coats and shimmery cocktail dresses, also beat a path down the catwalk.

Highlights included the long, white skirts and dresses with rainbow flourishes, wool sweaters and coats with fabric paint spladges, and the long, rainbow patchwork cape, with check lining, modeled by Cara Delevingne — one of Bailey’s discoveries — at the end of the show.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

A true runway-collection that was what Marc Jacobs had in mind designing his fall 2018 collection. And what a runway-collection it was. He made his case for real fashion, fashion that’s not diluted or dumbed down, with an all-out, obvious homage to one of fashion’s greatest gods, and, at his height, most daring innovators, Yves Saint Laurent. This was Saint Laurent on steroids (with nods to one or two other designers), as Jacobs exploded proportions and dazzled with an audacious color sense to rival Saint Laurent’s own: maroon fake-fur chubbie over navy blouse, orange pants and purple sash; jade coat over hot pink blouse and berry-colored leather skirt (or was it pants?). Jacobs kept most volumes huge, the shoulders of myriad coats and jackets cut big, bigger, biggest, over high-waisted skirts and cropped, pleated pants, rounded through the hips. The grand stroke was everywhere, in huge flowers at the neck of a blouse or at the waist; a dolman sleeve with trumpet cuffs; an ebullient pouf on the bodice of a gown; high-drama, flat-brimmed hats. Occasionally, Jacobs worked in a body-con moment, dresses that lost volume but not impact. This was fashion to the max. A celebration of fashion.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

Raf Simons marked his first year at Calvin Klein by filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo’s worth of popcorn, not for people to eat but to wade through and sit in, for his fall show. This collection was about America.

The collection felt loaded with dark symbolism. With Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner sweaters, sinister but cozy homespun knitted ski hoods, Warhol silver foiled aprons, and prairie dresses done in subversive sheers or with cutouts at the breast. There was an abundance of oversized tailoring, ski sweaters, a leopard coat and wispy silk dresses printed to mimic classic American quilting patterns.

SiesMarjan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

Sander Lak drew his audience during his show into a dream world of light and color that morphed from one tone to another.The room was bathed in blue, pink, purple and red lights that intensified the collection’s unusual palette — teal, sage green, brown and ombréd peach and ice blue, red and dusky blue. It looked beautiful, upbeat and very feminine.
Lak made everything look and feel soft — the (degradee) colors, the fabrics, the shapes. The hues melted into each other. Silhouettes came in fluid satin drapes and swirls, and furs — real and faux — added plush texture. The clothes don’t fall in line with any trend. Here, the looks had something in common with draped modern dance dresses cut with lots of movement. A spare jumpsuit topped with a fur stole would have qualified as minimal if not for its bell sleeves and bell-bottom legs. Shift dresses wrapped in tulle around the shoulders were pretty, interesting but not too out there, and there were lots of great coats — teddy bear furs and a holographic trench.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

Victoria Beckham’s collection have an adult, modernist sensibility and the designer has a lot to offer in the world of modest, minimalist-based clothes that aren’t prudish or boring.

He fall-show proved that again. The rustic, sort of English flavor of slate and mossy tailored coats with big belts that opened the show befitted Beckham’s British background. Stirrup pants and strangely appealing square-toe flats bisected by a long strap that jutted out over the arch of the foot formed the foundation of a strong coat story that continued throughout the 25-look lineup.

There was a leopard print chenille jacquard trench as well as a padded navy trench that was sporty but elegant. Actually, it’s a good way to summarize collection’s strengths. Colors were rich — deep green, brown, sapphire blue. Nothing was casual, but there was a cool relaxation to the attitude.

Claes Iversen Couture Fashion Show SS2018

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Individuals by Amfi 2018 Catwalk Fashion Show, GEN24

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Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

Olivier Rousteing – Balmain’s designer – reinforced everything the brand is known for, revisiting house classics like the short jacket, the tight pants, the military jacket and the marinière in a torrent of metallic, glittery embellishments. The direction was echoed in the women’s looks, which were hooked on signature sexy, thigh-skimming dresses.
Sticking to his skinny, square-shoulder silhouette, military — one of the season’s key trends — was a major theme, but more for the embellishments than a utilitarian mood, with plays on pockets, zips and lacing on a run of khaki green bombers and bikers.

Vetements Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

Demna Gvasalia, the designer of Vetements, went back to his designer roots and to the [Martin] Margiela approach.He wanted to shows his gratitude towards the label where he learned a lot of his designer skills and ways of breaking the rules.
He did it his own way with his signature mash-up of signs and prints, thrift-store sportswear collages and Eastern European peasant styling, with silhouettes built from piled-up oversized shirts in a jumble of prints and headscarves.
But the collection also had a softer, chicer side to it. His idea of turning oversized jackets around to expose the tags was very Margiela-esque, as were the tribal tattoo T-shirts and crumpled suits that looked as though they’d been picked off the bedroom floor.
Remixing his favorite things from his own youth, the designer added Marilyn Manson T-shirts, cut up his favorite T-shirts to create quirky assemblages of graphic messages and included a hookup with Nineties club-kid sneaker brand Swear. The customized denim with hand doodles and kids’ stickers added a playful, more joyful mood to the collection.

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