Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Salvatore Ferragamo

After the sound of trampling hoofs the Ferragamo models slowly came on to the runway. The collection meant to present the elegance and pride of ‘a man on horseback’ and show his sophistication and casual look.

This resulted in great balanced outfits in warm natural colors like orange, chocolate brown, velvet and red.

The models wore loose-knitted scarfs with long fringes. They looked comfortable in some large knitted cardigans with leather belts on top of them.

Ferragamo’s trousers were striped and his thick jackets had the tartan look going on. A few good old toggle coats came by and we saw some dignified jackets with a smooth satin finishing.

Altogether the use of knitwear, leather and cashmere made up for a luxurious-looking Ferragamo collection.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Neil Barrett

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Roberto Cavalli

Woven leather pants with metallic mesh tops at Roberto Cavalli, topped with plaid shirts and rugged parkas.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010 : Emporio Armani

The Emporio Armani show for fall/winter 2010 opened with a few groups of models wearing different sets of sportswear. The clothes were often made out of sporty rubber and most models wore crazy bonnets to finish their looks.

After the sport-influenced clothes many suits came by. Those – pretty tight – suits mostly came in grey. Grey happened to be the main color of the collection, representing the landscape of the big city (asphalt grey, rainy day grey). Yet it was often mixed with neon-colors to add a techno edge to the outfits. The many zippers on those outfits added to that feeling.

Since the show was all about geometry, many suits had small checks or circles in black and white. Armani also presented some graphic knitwear.

The accessories for the show were hats (which the models carried on their backs), sunglasses and gloves. The models walked the catwalk on big shoes that matched the shades of grey of their outfits.

At the end Armani showed the results of his collaboration with Reebok. About thirty models came on to the runway at the same time, wearing nothing but some men’ s briefs and the new EA7/Reebok shoes. We have to admit, we had a hard time focusing on those shoes!

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Bottega Veneta

Again, Thomas Maier proved he is a clever designer and a good judge regarding what men want: good quality clothes that bring out the little boy in them.

In his fall 2010 collection for Bottega Veneta Maier played with proportions, colors (dark blues, purple and red) and he took the outspoken rockabilly-style as his inspiration. That means: formal menswear mixed with jeans with a rebellious touch and well groomed models.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Burberry Prorsum

The collection Christopher Bailey presented yesterday for Burberry Prorsum was one of his strongest and focused of past seasons. He cut out all the crap, and what was left over were strong, big coats inspired by army-wear (off course, Burberry’s heritage lies in the trenches of World War I) – from army-green, big coats with golden buttons to bulky aviator-jackets and comfy marine-duffels. All a man needs besides coats like these are a shirt (washed denim, grey or off white), a soft knit, a slim pant in black and a pair of army-boots. And maybe a jacket for more formal occasions – but he only needs te coat to make a good impression.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Jil Sander

Raf Simons still tries to push the boundaries of traditional menswear at Jil Sander without being silly or looking forced. By using the best fabrics and skills of experienced tailors he manages to present a collection that’s far ahead of others and also very daring. I mean: who would put mobile pockets at jackets or lift the waistline? This was a tailored wardrobe injected with energy, with a concrete focus on shape and a forthlooking approach, using texture and construction to define a confident masculinity.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dolce & Gabbana

Ennio  Morricone’s music added that special drama to the Dolce & Gabbana-show, which was a tribute to Giuseppe Tornatore’s new movie Baaria – nominated for this years Oscars. The collection seemed also a tribute to the label itself, which celebrates it’s 20-th anniversary this year. And that means heritage Sicilian workwear in black and white, lot’s of grey, dirty jeans and shoes, destroyed knits, tight T-shirts and old fashioned underwear. The longjohn is definitively back as a fashion-item. As is the laced up armyboot.

backstage world ss2010: smile!

It’s a whole different world backstage at the fashionshows. A world of fun, excitement and creativity. Today: backstage at D&G, where models are telling jokes and making fun of each other.

Groupielove # 11

Making good on the promise of his sexy debut, Peter Dundas turned out a sizzling collection for Spring/Summer at Emilio Pucci. It is, of course, the season the house was made for, having been established on jet-set Capri in the 1960’s, but it also doesn’t hurt that Dundas is an avid scuba diver. The underwater universe produced some aqueous prints that also formed the basis of allover-sequined dresses. Neoprene diving suits informed a few long-sleeve minidresses with curve-enhancing mesh insets.

Some of the hottest swimwear of the season strutted down the narrow runway. One or two in snakeskin aren’t advisable for actually getting wet.  The season’s all-important jacket? He cuts a mean one: cropped, fitted, with lean arms and a flippy hem.

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