Iris van Herpen Haute Couture show Paris SS2011

This week Iris van Herpen once again amazed the international fashion crowd with another great collection. She presented her new series of twelve outfits, for the first time during the Paris Haute Couture Week.

Iris van Herpen was inspired by the increasing digitalization of the world around us. She used the sculptures of American artist Kris Kuksi as an important inspiration and used a very special printing technique for her dresses. The designs were fully printed in 3D, not a single stitch was needed. Iris developed that technique together with architect Daniel Widrig, she used this technique in her previous collections too.

The white, black, grey and beige creations were made out of unconventional material like a mix of metal and silk, burned woven metal and shiny hair threads.

And there were more collaborations… For the shoes of the show Iris worked with Rem. D Koolhaas of United Nude again and she was honored to have British hat designer Stephen Jones working on her hats. They were made out of technological bits and pieces. Remnants of computers and speakers were turned into modern hat pieces….Wow!

Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers FW2011

For the second time the sisters Truus and Riet Spijkers will show their SIS collection during the Amsterdam Fashion Week. Their second collection of their more affordable line will exist of 30 looks, containing 90 outfits.

‘For this fall collection we were inspired by the first female drivers and aviators back in the days. We used ladies like Amelia Earheart, the first woman to cross the ocean, as an inspiration. We were already thinking about doing something with he for a long time and now was the right time’, Truus Spijkers explained.

Truus and Riet didn’t use the theme very literally. ‘When you think of aviators you almost immediately think of lammy coats, well you’re not going to see those in our collection’, Truus said. ‘We did design knitted dresses with ribbons stitched on top of it, tough overalls and jackets with fur collars. We used shades of blue, light taupe, grey, black and some red.’

While the sea was a big theme in the latest SIS collection, this time it’s all about the sky. The twin sisters therefore designed a print of clouds that will pop up in the collection.

Truus tells the collection will definitely be a winter collection: ‘We used heavy wool, silk and cotton, yet we also did one lightweight parachute fabric.’

Her favorite items are the knitted dresses: ‘They’re comfortable and luxe, so I think many people will like them. Our musthaves for next winter must be the overall and the jumpsuit.’

Like at last year’s SIS show some video material might be shown, but the sisters can not give away too much. What they can say is that Joost van Bellen is working on some very tough rock ‘n roll music, which we’re dying to hear on Thursday evening (27 January).

Photos: Muriel Schouten @ Team Peter Stigter

Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Jan Taminiau FW2011

For upcoming Amsterdam International Fashion Week designer Jan Taminiau has the honor of showing during the opening soiree. And while two designers usually show during this evening, Jan is doing it alone, presenting two different collections.

Jan sure has been busy the last couple of weeks designing not only for his brand new Haute Couture collection, but also for his Demi couture collection. Yet for Jan having to coordinate two different collections at once, is not bad at all. ‘It just feels like I can now ‘play’ more, cause I now get the make twice the amount of designs. It’s like synchrone dancing, since I’m making the same progress with both collections’, he said.

Demi Couture – Seperates

Jan will open the Amsterdam Fashion Week with his Demi Couture collection, a slightly less pricey collection, for which he focused more on his customer.  ‘The Demi Couture collection is not very different from the Haute Couture collection. Yet if a costumer would want an item from the Demi Couture collection they would only need one appointment with us, compared to five appointments for a design of our Haute Couture collection’, Jan explains.

The Demi Couture collection is, like the Haute Couture collection, not based on a certain season. Jan: ‘My customers travel to the sun when it’s winter and go skiing in the summer, so I never really work with seasons.’

Jan used the word ‘demi’ (this means ‘half’ in French) as a joke in his collection too. He would not tell us exactly what he did, but we guess certain designs will seem like they’re just one half of an item.

Jan: ‘The collection will be feminine, sexy and tough and you’ll see soft tones like gold, beige, off white, soft green and light pink’

Haute Couture – Irradiance

Jan’s Haute Couture collection is called irradiance (it’s about inner glow) and is inspired by hiding and being visible. ‘It’s based on a certain feeling you might have right before you enter a stage; you want to go on stage, but you’re also afraid and want to hide. You want to take that moment, yet you are hesitating. I always compare it to the moment you, as a child, have to give a presentation in front of the whole class; you have to do it, but you’d rather disappear. It’s about that vulnerable, yet positive balance’, Jan explained.

Jan: ‘I loved making this collection, cause there were no rules or restrictions, since this Haute Couture collection doesn’t necessarily have to be about clothes or wearablity.’

All materials for the collection were woven in the Textielmuseum in Tilburg and a lot of the details of the clothes were made by hand. The silhouette, as well as the colors of the collection are typical for Jan Taminiau: ‘You’ll see a lot of grey, silver, black and white and the music of the show will be moody.’

Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Our review of the Paul Smith menswear fashion show will be posted on our blog shortly.

For now please enjoy our pictures.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

For the YSL:-menswearcollection Stefano Pilati found inspiration at Savile Row and the Mod style so unmistakenly linked to Sixties London and still there. Choosing this theme the designer left the wider pants behind (a fit other fashionbrands are showing this season) and made cigarette-pipe trousers and big shoes the foundation for innovative jackets. Some got a velvet trim, breast pockets, compact lapels and clustered buttons which added a youthful character to the new tailoring.

Turtlenecks or band-collared shirts added color. In a season with a lot of outerwear the coats Pilati showed were rather refreshing because of the trapeze-silhouette and use of fabric.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

For fall/winter 2011 Lucas Ossendrijver came up with a beautiful collection in which tailoring was used in a sportswear way. It made the designs look extra comfy.

Trousers were baggy, the coats seemed ultra-soft and the turtle necks worn underneath fully buttoned shirts must be warm enough for any weather condition. The number of layers appeared endless!

With this collection Alber Elbaz wanted to bring more elegance to the young and mix the romantic spirit with the edginess of past collections. So though the items presented (double breasted blazers, coats, ties) were pretty classic, they were shown in a very youthful way.

Towards the end a printed suit and several colorful (yellow, pink, lavender) shiny jackets, pants and bowties gave the collection a nice twist.

Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Addy van den Krommenacker FW2011

On Friday the 28th of January Addy van den Krommenacker will present his brand new collection during the Amsterdam Fashion Week. The couturier, who is not only popular in the Netherlands but is also a big hit in Italy, tells us his collection is inspired by a strong woman. Therefore the collection is called: A glamorous pieceful warior woman.

For this collection Addy looked for a new challenge. He said: ‘I an known for my glamorous red carpet looks, but this time I wanted to create a more tough woman. Of course she’ll still have my style.’

To create the clothes for this tough woman Addy used tough materials. ‘I used organza, lace and sequins, but the tough part is mostly visible in the colors of the collection. That is, I used colors I never used like this before and I didn’t opt for the very feminine colors I usually use. I also worked with a new technique: moulage.’

Addy will be showing at least 50 different outfits and is extremely busy at the moment (only four days after the fashion in Amsterdam Addy is already showing in Rome). ‘Every week from Sunday to Wednesday I go to Milan to visit the studio. I work hard, but being in Milan and having diner there is also a great way to relax. Besides, the whole process of making fashion is of course great fun.’

Although Addy is been a fashion designer for years, he still gets nervous. ‘The closer my fashion show gets, the more nervous I bvecome. Sometimes I wake up in the middle of the night and I start thinking about everything. Sometimes I come up with great ideas too, so then I get up and put them in my iPad. Other times I just close my eyes again and think ‘Tomorrow is another day’.

What we didn’t know of Addy is that he helps with producing the music for his show too. ‘I love music, so I’m working on the music for my show as well.’

Addy’s musthave for next fall? ‘A tough trenchcoat, which you’ll see in my new collection’

We’re looking forward to the show!

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Before the show of Raf Simons even had started, rumors about the designer leaving his commercial partner were already spreading around. And the rumors seemed true, but did not affect the show and the collection at all. Simons sent out a calm, yet inventive collection with a mix futurism (pants in black PVC, mohair aprons) and preppy college style (sweaters, checks, Fair Isle knits). Duffel coats, in camel and  brights, were the main statement. One voluminous version came in purple neoprene – worn with a sharp shirt and tie and a  scarf – while another cocoon-shaped design in tomato red fastened with a single closure at the neck.

Backstage the designer said he wanted to explore a mix of maturity and youth, and also pay homage to craftsmen.

Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Elsien Gringhuis FW2011

Elsien Gringhuis took her inspiration for her fall winter 2011 collection from the Dutch countryside, with it’s endless view, clear fields and lots of wind. She called her collection ‘One of these days’, after a Pink Floyd song. Giving away a bit of the ominous feeling this seeming fresh collection has.

For her 18 different looks Elsien used natural materials like hand painted silk, bamboo and wool and opted for colors like black, white, green and (light) blue.

For this new collection she focused more on the wearability of her designs. She also developed her way of pattern making. ‘I challenge myself trying to use the minimal amount of parts for my patterns, maybe one or two’, Elsien said. ‘I also tried to give the collection more of an airy feeling then I did with other collection.’

Elsien’s favorite outfit of her new collection is a silk jumpsuit.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Double breasted & leather were the most important aspects of the new Hermes menswear collection. Suit jackets and coats in any kind of material were all double breasted. Even the leather ones, which – together with several pairs of leather pants (in black, green and Burgundy) – could be seen throughout the whole collection. There even was a army green leather overall, which looked extremely thick and heavy.

According to Hermes other hot items for next fall are the lammy coat, checked suits, hooded jackets, printed scares and turtle neck sweaters. We saw some models in surprisingly bright versions of the turtle neck (yellow and turquoise) passing by.

One thing we know for sure; the Hermes man won’t be freezing his butt off wearing clothes from this ultimate winter-proof collection.

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