Standing here for the fourth time, Winde Rienstra is not a new face anymore at Amsterdam fashion week. She’s slowly putting herself out there as one of the new great talents showing here. And so far, she’s doing a good job.
Rienstra’s work is known for the handcraft, strong details, graphic shapes and the fact that she’s not afraid to experiment with several and sometimes complicated materials. And that’s what she showed us again today. The show started with a video portraying the different materials she worked with for this collection in a kaleidoscopic way. We saw sequins, silk, wool, and even pieces of Lego. Materials with totally different characters, but Rienstra knows how to make them work together and how they can intensify each other. Soft and hard reunites effortlessly.
We saw some long, silk dresses in soft colors like white, pale blue and salmon combined with wooden keen-edged constructions and revised with embroidered details. A faux fur skirt had knitted flowers on both sides. And the shoes, made of Lego that made the models cradle sometimes, screamed structure.
Although her designs may not always be easy or comfortable to wear, it was a nice collection. Rienstra knows what she’s best in, but is not afraid to renew herself. And that’s what we like about her.
Marije de Haan
Uncommon runway models walked in this afternoon’s Marije de Haan fashion show. Bearded, tattooed, stout, short and old guys played the part of Marije de Haan’s sailor men. They sported sailor underwear, carried bottles of beer in leather sleeves in their hands and did in fact appear slightly drunk.
Marije created striped ‘underwear’ shorts, checked buttoned tops and what appeared to be two combinations between a cape and a blouse. Dutch flag details were visible on a leather-ish/fringed, three colored jacket, a knitted scarf and a top with a flag attached to it. One of the guys even wore a line of dirty, striped and checked red – white – blue flags around his neck.
Two tough bearded guys were dressed in the most adorable designs; one nude colored lace ensemble and a heart printed pair of pj’s. We can already picture them strolling around in the harbor on their Palladium boots on a Sunday morning.
“That can half up the sails that can swallow the moon. And he drinks, and he drinks, and he drinks once again.”
The last LAB- shows of the day. It was up to Marije de Haan en Winde Rienstra to close it down this thursday night. And we have to say, a great closure it was. Two totally different collections, but both with some stunning pieces.
Marije de Haan
Contrast seems to be the keyword in the work of this young designer. And it shows in every element, from A to Z. Starting with her sources of inspiration: she explores the world of people that seems to be the most distant from hers: criminals. Already during her time at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in The Hague, where she graduated in june 2010, she was fascinated by the obscure side of life, searching through police documents. And she did so for this collection. ‘I don’t know why it fascinates me that much, maybe it’s because it’s a world so different from mine, which makes it very interesting’, she tells.
For this show it was American criminal Black Bart that inspired her. She takes us back to 1877, when he was one of the most famous robbers in America. Black Bart was familiar for the notes he left after every robbery. But is was especially his style of clothes that got her. Because no matter what, he was always dressed properly, wearing a three- piece suit and a bowler hat. But to keep anonymous he always wore something under his bowler that covered his face. And that she translated in some extravagant headpieces, like a blouse worn as a huge scarf covering a models face or a huge collar raised until the eyebrows. We also saw the classic menswear suit, but in a rough way. Like a leather pea coat or a denim blouse. And you must have noticed there were real man walking down the runway, among which Ferry van der Nat. ‘Yes, I used older men as models, because they have this typical faces which suits so well with the story.’
Graduated for Fashion Design in 2009 at the School of Arts in Utrecht, Winde Rienstra made a huge leap forward in the world of fashion with here strong, architectural shapes. As one of the few designers to promote slow fashion, she ended up as one of the three finalists in the Green Fashion Competition last year. ‘The environment is very important to me and I’ve always been eco- friendly in some ways.’ But she must admit it’s sometimes hard to find some good, eco- friendly fabrics for her designs.’
Today she showed here for the second time with an outstanding collection that made some people even speechless. The collection, based on a painting from Dutch painter J.C. van Schagen, was a perfect combination between strong and soft, feminine elements. Just the way she wanted it to be. ‘To give it that feminine touch is really important to me. I like feminine clothes, I wear only skirts myself too. I never wear trousers. And it’s also really nice to see how the hard and soft elements intensify each other.’ But it was also the strong 3D- effect that made this painting so special to her. ‘The light that falls on the painting determines the shapes and 3D- effects you see. So it changes all the time, which is so interesting.’ She translated that in big, sculptural 3D- pieces and all made from natural fabrics like silk, cardboard and wood. Like a cubist maxi-skirt made from silk or huge cardboard plateau shoes, which made it very difficult for the models to walk. According to the loud applause after the show this is probably not the last we will hear from this young talent.
Na afloop van de Lichting 2010 show spraken we met winnares Marije de Haan. Haar mannenmode collectie werd uit veertien verschillende collecties verkozen tot de beste.
Tonight fourteen different students from seven different academies presented their graduation collections during Amsteram Fashion Week. They showed their finest work in front of a large fashion audience and in front an international jury. That jury had to decide which one of the students had the best collection.
After a long catwalkshow and some wise deliberation the jury named Marije de Haan as the winner of Lichting 2010. With her menswear collection named ‘flatliners’ Marije wins a money prize of 10.000 and gets a chance to work with G-star during the next New York Fashion Week. With the money she would like to expand her collection.
Marije studied at the Royal Academie of Arts in the Hague. Her menswear collection was inspired by crime-scene photography from the beginning of the twentieth century.
We wish her all the best of luck and hope to hear more from this new designtalent very soon!