Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

With his spring/summer collection for 2010 Roberto Cavalli celebrated 40 years in fashion. The man that brought us sexy, fluid dresses in all kinds of animal-prints,bohemian  rockstar-clothes in python or crocodile and the real Italian style did not opt for a retrospective show. He invited a lot of his favorite models though and some were even walking in the show, like Laetitia Casta and Natalia Vodianova.

The others, Nadege and Heid Klum, watched the show front row together with Taylor Swift, Leona Lewis and Elisabetta Canalis.  They saw a very condensed collection that consisted of four things Cavalli is known for: long fringes, long dresses, catsuits and python(prints). Hip-hugging bellbottoms and long webby skirts were worn with tops that left hips, back and bellies exposed. Underneath the models wore bikini-tops. They looked like tribal hippies with their flat ironed hair.

The collection had nothing to do with color or minimalism, as we’ve seen elsewhere in Milan this week. This was Roberto’s own trip and he used his signature elements well.

D Squared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

It looked as if the twin-brothers Dean and Dan Caten had plucked all the fancy, chic citygirls from the street and put them on the stage tot show their spring-collection. The show was all about modern streetwear, the mix a young citygirl wears: something she found in her mothers closet, took from her boyfriend and bought herself at vintage store. She picked out oversized cardigans, tight bermudas, loose khaki’s, a suit and even mens-shoes plus old fashioned, printed scarves and golden necklaces.

It made a pretty collection of stuff you already know, it was nice to watch but the ideas were old. The late 60’s/early 70’s vibe (shiftdresses, long wide pants, shorts) gave it a more fashionable touch, since these periods popped up in other shows in Milan. There was hardly any color – beside the bags and some prints – the designers focused at khaki, black & white and blue.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

In a season where color sets the trend you expect a Missoni-collection to be a multicolored festival. In a certain way it was, regarding the hippie-like dresses with zig-zag, geometric patterns and colorful inserts. But on the other hand it looked a bit overdone too: and color, and the Missoni-signature patterns, and an African theme plus a Japanese/ Mexican vibe on top of that. The result was a more or less psychedelic collage of dresses.

Angela Missoni played with layering, pleating, fringing and embellishments like beads and sequins. She presented smocks, tunics, caftans and kimonos and mixed it all together. But the mood was energetic, hopefully Missoni is capable to transfer that to the customer and into the stores.

Time for an espresso

The reason Team Peter Stigter loves to be in Milan is not only because of the great food they serve, but also because of the best espresso and cappuccino they have. This morning we enjoyed our coffee outside the hotel, the sun was shining again and we were ready for another beautiful day of fashion and fun!

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

First the celebs had to arrive and set themselves before the Dolce & Gabbana show could start. Luckily Kylie Minogue was on time this time, followed by Naomi Campbell and Jada Pinket-Smith with her daugther Willow. During the intro with Cavaleria Rusticana old campaign-images flashed starring Madonna, Dutch model Marpessa Henning and Monica Belluci plus the words bianco, sartoria, siciliana. It set the tone of the collection, which had all the Dolce & Gabbana ingredients.

It was a good show in terms of models, music, pace and atmosphere. But the set up seemed repetitive with collections shown before, not only the theme but also with a parade of models dressed alike at the finale and the clothes. There was no color at all, besides a few flowerprints in blue and green.  Black, white and the leopardprint played a leading role, as did lace, broderie anglaise, cotton and boudoir-like items as babydolls and bloomers. Tube-dresses were followed by skirt-suits, long dresses, mini-dresses and tunics. It was a sweet collection from a commercial point of view, but I hope the designerduo will continue to use their main line as their playing garden and come up with some fresh and intriguing.  One line with a different worked out concept every season- D&G – is enough.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Marni mixed athletic wear with her typical contemporary style into a streamlined, colorful collection with slim sportpants, collarless jackets and mini-dresses as the centerpieces of the collection. Short dustcoats in leather were perforated, minidresses were made of macrame-lace or embellished with embroidered 3D applications. Nearly every outfit was a mix of layers. The silhouet was slim but structured. Colors moved from blue, white and green to pink, orange and yellow.

Colorblocking, contrasting stripes in black, diagonally striped motifs and psychedelic flowerprints added an upbeat touch to the collection. The stiff techno fabrics for mini-dresses and cropped pants sometimes reminded of the Sixties space-style, while the long dresses in hallucinating prints reminded of the Seventies.

This was not one of Marni’ best collections, maybe because she suggested too much. But sport is defenitely back in fashion.

Moschino Cheap and Chic Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

The Moschino Cheap and Chic fashion show was different than we expected. There were no seats so people were standing in front of the runway. Also there was loud music and pizza and prosecco was being served. So it felt more like being at a concert or a party than attending a fashion show.

But it set the right mood. We saw Anna dello Russo dancing like crazy and everyone else was enjoying themselves too. And as soon as the models appeared the crowd was smiling even more.

The joyful collection was an explosion of prints and color. Some outfits had more than six different bright colored prints on them. But still Rosella Jardini managed to avoid a clown-y look.

There were summer dresses, blouses and over the knee skirts. Airy silk skirts were matched with knitted sweaters and waist belts. Colors like turquoise, coral, lilac and orange were combined.

A T-shirt with a piece sign on it which read ‘Piece & Irony’ was worn with a pair of salmon pink pants. And a gorgeous lemon print could be seen on a skirt, a blouse and a sexy asymmetrical dress.

Bright red lips, colorul headbands, flower corsages, check-printed shoes and eye-catching necklaces brought even more joy to the collection. The blowing kisses-thing the models did was maybe a bit too much, but we sure had a fun night.

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

The Pucci fashion show started way too late, because Kylie Minogue wasn’t on time. But the singer, who arrived in a gold asymmetrical Pucci dress, was worth the wait. She’s worn Pucci outfits on so many occasions and really is the perfect celeb to promote the sexy chic Italian brand.

The spring/summer collection was once again glamorous and fearless. Peter Dundas designed sheer printed dresses, tight pants with slightly flared legs and gorgeous swimsuits.

The first looks had white & blue prints, which halfway the collection changed into red, orange and camel hues. Also, some yellow and pink came by.

Lace-up high boots, lace-up collars and lace-up high slits could be seen throughout the whole show. The lace-up details were one of the main aspects of the collection, together with tassels, cut-outs, sequins and ruffles.

The tassels were playfully added on shoulder bags, tops and on a trench coat. Multiple cut-outs added even more sexiness to the designs (dresses and swimsuits) that were already pretty body-revealing. Large sequins, which were added on dresses, pants and scarves, gave the looks some extra glamour.

And headbands, necklaces with big crosses and sunglasses with rose-colored glasses were a great finishing of the looks.

All outfits were perfection and the models looked like the ideal woman. Yet not every average woman call wear those clothes, designed with the bodies of supermodels in mind. Especially the long dresses with high slits and tight fitted shiny pants will only look good if you have the length and the size of a model. Even Kylie, who is particularly tiny, could not wear any of the clothes without them being custom made for her.

But then again, maybe most women wearing Pucci are not your average women. Maybe they do have the perfect body type for the designs (or more than enough money to have the clothes tailor made).

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Wow, that was a real good Jil Sander-show. The way Raf Simons treats colors, the new minimalism but also the need for strong elegance proofs he is a true craftsman and creative, daring designer. Yes, the silhouette was exaggerated, yes the colors sometimes hurt the eyes and yes the skirts were maybe too long – but fashion can take a whole new direction with his ideas.

Simons focused at shape, volume, proportion and new materials and used couture as his vehicle. Skirts were long and sack shaped, trousers ultra-wide and some tops had a contrasting frill. This sounds very old fashioned haute couture – especially because it reminded of the old YSL and Givenchy – but Simons added a modern touch by mixing it with plain white T-shirts or a tank-top. Jackets had contrasting front edges, the long skirts seemed classic but had sensual high splits and the simple dresses with vertical stripes (in white and navy) looked modern and right on.

Besides shape, color was his most important message; so don’t be afraid of neon yellow, day glo orange, shocking pink, purple, green, electric blue or the exaggerated floral prints.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

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