Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

Giorgio Armani called his fall-collection ‘Easy Chic’. The refined tailoring stood for chic, the flat shoes for ease. The clothes pointed to menswear, but were designed with a light hand. Every outfit was topped off by a fedora, and vibrant orange and fuchsia ran throughout. Armani opened with sleek gray combinations and suits with tops in solid colors or graphic prints. He then moved to light pieces over  man-tailored shorts. Skirts were cut for ease of movement. The mix of all kinds of  textures and weights kept it interesting.

Dsquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

It’s the dream of any teenage girl; going to her prom in a designer dress. A prom dress designed by Dean and Dan from Dsquared might not be her first option, but the duo sure proved they know how to stage a prom show, including disco balls and a live band.

Their high school prom designs were pretty much everyday clothes. Like cropped trousers combined with leather jackets. Or croc leather pencil skirts worn with mohair sweaters. And those camel colored pants mixed with a denim jacket. Or that toggle coat with leopard collar worn with a check shirt and tight jeans.

Like always at Dsquared the styling was playful and casual. Bright shades of green, pink, purple and yellow alternated each other in goofy streetwise looks topped off by eye-catching accessories.

Models had big sixties hair, pointed glasses, chunky necklaces, funky (odd-fitting) hats and big brooches. Some of them even smoked on the runway, as if to emphasize the rebellion/youthful aspect of the show and the collection.

The show was closed by a couple of ballgowns, but even those weren’t all too serious. But never mind if their outfits matched with the dresscode or not; never a dull moment with these Dsquared high school girls

 

 

 

Aquilano & Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

The Aquilan & Rimondi show had a royal vibe. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s inspiration was a mix  of Marie Antoinette and the holy women  in Italian Baroque paintings. That led to dresses buttoned up to the chin revealing a bare back view, Maltese cross patterns, a minimalist and strict silhouette, lots of dark red, purple, midnight blue and black. The designers were at their most convincing when they gave that Gothic vein free rein.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2012: Techno Forward

 

Show reports told us that Ennio Capasa of C’N’C Costume National had “imagined a woman in a virtual metropolis” who is “post-punk, post-chic but above all technological.”

It seems to cover the choice of many: Fabrics, like extra shiny, slick patent leather, seemed to take priority over flattering
fit, as robust outerwear came in boxy shapes with diagonal zippers. It was futuristic and powerful. Uniforms inspire, which shows in mechanical straight lines, Bauhaus minimalism and military and naval tailoring.

Fendi shows harness belts combined with silky sleek tops and flared plisse. C’N’C Costume National shows two girls zipped in square cut shapes combining the high gloss with the soft touch. Where Sportmax was obviously
inspired by the uniform of martial arts: Karate, judo and other elegantly dressed forms of fighting.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2012 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Versus Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

For fall 2012 Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane took us to Camden, an area in London where punk and grunge come together. They brought us to a small alley with a brick wall and wet street. It was the right setting for their fashion show, ‘cause if the collection was anything, it was streetwise.

Rebellious, tough, angry, modern girls (as Christopher put it) appeared in looks that were all slightly off balance. T-shirts were slashed to ribbons, dresses were held together with black leather lacing, mid thigh high boots and lots of tie-dyed items formed the finale of the show.

The clothes looked original and fun and will definitely appeal to the London youth. Also the color palette (from red, to blue, pink and green) seemed fresh and funky. Don’t those red leather pants just have to be worn in a cool city night club? And wouldn’t the tie-dye dresses be perfect for a day at Glastonbury? This Versus collection most become a hit. Or at least the London crowd will love it.

 

 

 

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

At Ferragamo it was all about military meets femininity. And who would have thought an army of women could look this sexy?!

Strong heavy coats were combined with elegant lace skirts and heavy skirts, on the other hand, were matched with sheer off shoulder tops. Playful bottoms were worn with body hugging tops and tight pencil skirts formed nice duos with loose, airy tops. This way every single look was perfectly balanced.

Models wore their hair in tight partings and looked fierce with their short chokers. Yet the soft make-up made it right again. Super feminine, tough and strong, or something in between; Salvatore Ferragamo is your brand for any of those fall/winter looks.

 

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

It seemed a never ending collection that Dolce & Gabbana sent out this afternoon. A collection that captured Italy’s love for drama and opera. Pavarotti was on the soundtrack singing O sole mio and out came the models dressed in baroque black velvet and gold brocade, covered with dramatic capes, dresses embroidered with images of painted old theater-ceilings. Even the earrings looked like little cherubs and shoes reminded of theater furniture and decorations.

The press release said the starting-point was the tradition of Sicilian Baroque, which evolved in volumes and processes, experimenting in new cuts and decorations: golden embroideries that recall Baroque mirrors and frames or embroideries made of small points inspired by dining room tapestries; prints of cherubs and angels that appear to have come out of a painting.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

Long, lean silhouettes determined the Missoni fall/winter collection we saw today. And while the looks were very feminine, Angela Missoni added a fresh touch of grunge to her outfits. It was visible through the hair (divided into three parts), the eye catching jewellery (large earrings – in one ear – brooches and matching waist belts) and the odd styling (wrongly buttoned vests).

The new look for fall was also dictated by patchwork details (we saw earlier this week) which combined knits with fur. Presented in shades ranging from faded pastels tot seventies shades to different grey and turquoise tones it made up for a graceful collection.

Skirts and dresses below the knee were combined with body wrap tops and long leather gloves. The label’s signature zigzag print had made way for lines, stain-like prints and graphical patterns.

Angela showed a fresh, young collection and clearly tried to do something different this time. And well.., we think she succeeded.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2012: Sharp & Graphic

Pleasure and having a good time was the lead team for some of the designers in Milan this week. It translated itself in a series of glorious graphics and optimistic vibrancy. All had their reasons to come up with the full dose of color, black and white contrast and sharp metallics. The mood ranged from Rock Chick rebellion to retro reminiscence and faint memories of Robocop and Blade runner. Clearly this was not just about having fun. It was serious couture craftsmanship and a minute interest in shape and detail. We saw geometric print, graphic straight-line cutting and embellishment. Next to positively shining metallics, iridescence, shining foils, plasticised embroideries and holographic surfaces.

At Prada the pants made the story, but it was the embroidery in all its glassy glamor that brought an extra dimension to this powerful show, Versace showed some robotic retro futurism, where Moschino threw a parade with cheerleader skirts and uniform jackets, Prada again played with daring color harmonies in optical patterns and Blumarine staged (as well as Fendi) funkiest and artistic furs painted in more than bright colors.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

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