Dutch galore on the Paris Runway! After Viktor & Rolf, Jan Taminiau, Iris van Herpen and Ilja Visser, now it was up to Dorhout Mees. And there she was, Esther Louise Dorhout Mees showing her collection in the big arena, rubbing shoulders with industry heavyweights like Galliano and Givenchy. Was she still able to breath and smile? Oh, yes!
She herself describes her signature style as a crossing between sculptural silhouettes and femininity but still wearable and sophisticated.This collection was called ‘nubivagant’ which means nothing but wandering in the clouds, moving through the air. Oh, how we wish we could sometimes, especially in these creations. The theme echoed in her geometric shapes, curvy lines, clever folds, superimposed layers, natural prints and use of colours and luxury fabrics. The interaction and contrasts in form and material was pretty interesting. Like heavy, uniform materials against soft and transparant fabrics, the screaming red with its grey and black counterparts, cut-outs in places you would never expect them when it comes to form and function (although, your arm-pits seem like a pretty smart option). Or what about super wearable high-waisted paints and a cropped top decorated with exaggerated shoulders almost like festive pompoms. But hey, a cloud never explains its weird and alway changing forms right? It just is and it goes with the flow. If there must be one person floating on cloud 9, it must be Esther. As humble as she stepped out to receive her well-deserved applause, just as big is her future plan. Her first concrete steps towards an international career started of with a big bang, thanks to Lady Gaga and Paris Fashion Week. We can’t hide our curiosity for what her next step will be.
March 7, 2016 by
Last night Dutch designer Dorhout Mees made her debut in Paris. Well done! 💥💥💥🎉 dorhout_mees… instagram.com/p/BCpO-MASCia/
On the closing night of Amsterdam Fashion Week Esther Dorhout Mees decided to do things differently. Not just a straightforward catwalk show, but the loveliest of settings. The show area all cozied up by hundreds of light bulbs, an orchestra in the back. Stages is the name of her ninth collection, for which Esther got inspired by declined and decayed circuses. Old, ruinous theaters in which applause can be heard as a far away echo against the worn out walls (translated through beautiful colored prints). Decline, velvet, broken concrete, handmade shoes; a collection of contrasts in both shape and form. Two of the many fascinating dresses had sheer tops and dip dyed knitted skirts. Another one had tons of deep blue velvet dots attached to it. Waists were extremely small, sleeves puffy, shoes towering high. The final four looks were made out of a stunning shiny fabric which made it possible to create 3D applications. ‘This moment, contains all moments’ – CS Lewis
Inspired by water (or more specific the ability of water crystals to transform in certain environments) and it’s many faces Esther Dorhout Mees presented yet another flawless womenswear collection, named “O”, today. After the backdrop video set the mood and waves were projected onto the catwalk long and lean models on high geometric, asymmetrical heels (which gave the illusion to be wet) with wet hair ‘walked on water’. They sported elegant creations visibly inspired by water. Light blue and white (true water tones) were the main colors, a touch of pink added at the end. Fabrics were both airy and shiny, reflecting the attributes of water. Breast and waist were the focus in the designs silhouettes, with a few strong shoulders here and there. Always delicate and sophisticated and therewith creating a collection full of the finest cocktail chic ensembles. Strapless, structured dresses, midriff baring, ruffled (resembling waves) tops, sheer (representing the transparency of water) pants worn with high waisted underpants and maxi dresses with T-shirt shaped sleeves had XL pleats. Fabrics were airy, floating (like water) in the air as the models slowly walked the runway. An extra beautiful effect, which especially a few creations with layers of the finest, thinnest fabrics on top of each other (like a book) were able to show off. Mirrored prints (representing the reflecting aspect of water) added to the elegance of the collection as a nice subtle scent (yes, Dorhout Mees want to trigger all senses) completed the Dorhout Mees water world.
Passage is the name of Dorhout Mees’ seventh collection. A collection meant for vulnerable yet powerful women based on organic forms and contrasts in material, colors and prints. Inspiration for prints and accessories came from wood and bark. Esther Dorhout Mees also presented her fourth shoe-collection, this time inspired by pieces of wood and made by 3D-print-technique. Take a peek at this beautiful show.
Take a look backstage at the LAB-shows of Dorhout Mees and Domenico Cioffi.
See the collections of newcomers Dorhout Mees & Domenico Cioffi http://t.co/59ERgnTn #AFW
Dorhout Mees and Domenico Cioffi; the first two LAB shows of this week!
Dorhout Mees kicked off with a small collection of womenswear. Dresses with strong shoulders, structured skirts and blouses combined with tiny hotpants formed playful elegant looks. Esther Louise Dorhout Mees used nature inspired prints and shades of (mos-)green and white. Several fabrics looked shiny and somewhat metallic, as other sheer ones stressed the airy and dreamy aspect of the collection.
Newcomer Domenico Cioffi followed with a selection of true summer looks. He showed wide tops and dresses with line details and striped prints. He even added matching sun caps and styled his looks with chunky cuffs, fringed sandals, cross earrings and eye-catching cool sunglasses which he designed himself. Quite a lot of different styles united! Therefore a clean grey-ish playsuit and a sober trenchcoat inspired design were the strongest items in the bunch.
Her Paris Haute Couture debut asked for a follow up. So today Esther Louise Dorhout Mees was back in Paris to present her SS17 collection ‘Orphic’. Inspired by lightning, which is beautiful (to watch) and horrifying at the same time, the talented Dutch designer came up with a feminine collection filled with layered elegance. A line up that really spoke to the audience as soon as the first model (with the frizziest, struck-by-lightning-hair) appeared.
‘‘ORPHIC’ (adj.) Mysterious and entrancing; beyond ordinary understanding’ was about thunder and the designer’s fascination with what happens when someone survives a lightning strike. An exceptional (and rather dreadful) starting point that lead to some exquisite and surprisingly lighthearted looks. Prints referred to both the movement of electricity and the fading it causes as well as scars on a skin.
Fabrics both airy and nacre shiny beautifully worked together in some of the esthetic and arty couture looks as tight corsets, countlessly tied at the back (resembling scars) played a crucial part. Whites, nudes, red and touches of mint formed a graceful pallet, no doubt linked to all things human like skin, veins and blood. And not just the fabrics, but the jewelry and the sneakers too matched the show’s engrossing theme.
Something to think about next time you’re witnessing a thunderstorm..
Esther Dorhout Mees showed her seventh collection at Fashion Week Amsterdam. The collection ‘Passage’ consists of powerful designer pieces with organic forms in contrast with sharply hard contours. The underlying inspiration is the parallel with our human life. Mees merges apparent contradictions in a perfect symbiosis. Smooth and shiny fabrics are gracefully combined with rough textures. Even cracks in trees are reflected in the pattern pieces. The clean, straight lines of pants and tops contrast with voluminous folds and flowing dresses. In the knitwear we see this vulnerability and strength woven into each piece.