Paris is for many young fashion-designers still the place to be during the international fashionweek. They hope editors and stylists find a little hole in their schedule and visit their showroom and presentation. Well, it was certainly worth visiting Esther Dorhout Mees at the Totem showroom at 6, avenue Delcassé in Paris. Her feminine and conceptual style is still there, this time reminding of a aquarel painting.
Two other designers who presented their latest designs were Lotte van Dijk and Klaudia Stavevra,the 18th generation of the fashion design master of ArtEZ University of the Arts Arnhem. At Atelier Néerlandais they showed their highly personal visions on the future of fashion and femininity.
Lotte van Dijk (the Netherlands) based her collection on the way painters depict textiles. The bold and striking brushstrokes of Marlene Dumas inspired van Dijk to start her process by painting large images of garments including floral dresses, denim pieces, lace gowns and army coats. These paintings were used to create her
bold silhouettes, painted on top of the final garments or translated into jacquards.
Oversized, easy shapes in combinations of jacquards with plastic, canvas or tarpaulin are manipulated by belts, gathering towards the body, or by folding the big darts outside. Lotte is nominated for Hyeres 2017.
Klaudia Stavreva (Macedonia) presented her collection BOSSTVRVA. Inspired by the Sworn Virgins of Albania – women who assume the life and rights of a man, vowing not to marry or have children – she proposed a new, inverted way of power dressing – both sensual and strong. Modified garments, shapes and embellishments reference classic menswear, work wear, military dress, and Macedonian folkloric dress. Luxurious detailing, embellishment and fabrics clash beautifully with the hard signature menswear references.
It’s time for Graduation-shows again. The fashion department of Academy of Fine Arts in Arnhem (ArtEZ) kicked off with a big show, followed later this month by others. This year 24 students graduated at the Academy in Arnhem, and they presented their collection in the Elektrum in Arnhem. Among them are two graduates which are nominated for the Frans Molenaarprijs 2016: Johannes Offerhaus and Liesbeth Sterkenburg. Two other students will represent ArtEZ during Lichting 2016 which show will take place july 7th, Ailene of Elmpt and Johanna Bas Backer.
Other designers are participating in international contests. Laudy Verschuren, Boaz van Doornik and Maartje Janse (alumna from 2015) were nominated for the Mittelmoda Fashion Award 23rd Edition in Italy. Alissa Nicolai and Max Beets are selected for the Apolda European Design Award in 2017, a fashion contest that takes place in Germany once every 3 years
All graduates will show their collections in an exhibition about ArtEZ Finals 2016 in Arnhem from june 29th till july 3rd during the ArtEZ Finals exhibition in the Rietveld building at Onderlangs 9 in Arnhem.
Here are the highlights of the show and groupshots of all the collections.
It’s time for Graduation-shows again. The fashion department of Academy of Fine Arts in Arnhem (ArtEZ) kicked off with a big show, followed later this week by Rietveld Academy. This year 21 students graduated at the Academy in Arnhem, and they presented their collection in the Cityhall of Arnhem. Among them are five graduates which are nominated for the Frans Molenaarprijs 2015: Lilian Admiraal, Josephine Goverts, Max Zara Sterck, Tung Trinh en Maartje Janse. Two other students will represent ArtEZ during Lichting 2015 supported by V&D, Isabelle Tellié and Yvette Peek.
All graduates will show their collections in an exhibition about ArtEZ Finals 2015 in Arnhem from july 1st until 5th. The address: the former bankbuilding of ABN Amro at Gele Rijdersplein in Arnhem.
Here are the highlights of the show and the collections.
ArtEZ Fashion Design showed their fifteenth Collection Arnhem today. 26 Fashion-students at the Arnhem School of the Arts designed the collestion as a team. Their message: I love me, a new vision of the human being by playing with emotions. With the collection they played a provocative game of contradictions in form, fabric and color. The boundaries between male and female, private and public, good and bad disappeared now and then.
After his Moroccan inspired collection last season, Sjaak Hullekes will present a Japan oriented collection of menswear this time. “I was inspired by Japan from before and after the industrialization. People in Japan really focus on tradition. Sepia pictures of traditionally dressed people in front of a flat were the starting point. Besides the Japanese style is just very beautiful. I love the folklore aspect of their way of dressing”, Sjaak says.
The Japanese influences will be visible through the details of the clothes. “Menswear is always very much about details and with this collection it’s no different. You’ll recognize the Japanese style through the standing colors, certain fabrics, dessins and the Eastern overlap we used.”
The Japan theme reaches even further. “The music, the colors and the title of the collection are Japan inspired as well. We’ve used faded colors, which we’ve seen in the sepia pictures, like beige, faded green, navy and brown/orange shades. The title of the collection is Min‘yō, which is traditional Japanese music. It represent the idea of continuing something and passing it on, which really appealed to me.”
Throughout the new spring/summer collection, which will feature around thirty looks, the deconstructed signature of Sjaak Hullekes will be visible. “With most of my designs you can really see how they are created. I always look for fabrics and colors that give a design a certain strength. Plus, something has to feel really comfortable, like some of my jackets which are not lined.”
“The casual part of the collection is bigger this time than before. This because I personally really wanted to extend it. I want to wear more casual pieces myself. Therefore you’ll see more short jackets and safari jackets. One of the deconstructed jackets is my absolute favorite; it’s insane! It has a terracotta shade and we’ve used a contrasting fabric for both the color and the pockets. I think and hope it is going to do well.”
Head to toe
Sjaak recently launched his own perfume and will launch a collection of underwear (this collection will not be shown during Amsterdam Fashion Week) very soon; all part of the bigger plan. “I really feel the need to be able to dress a man from head to toe. I want to be a complete fashion house. The underwear, which is a very basic brief in both white and navy, arrives next week and will be sold quickly after that.”
“We’ve also just introduced our made to measure service, we are looking for our own store in Amsterdam and we’re working on a business-to-business level with companies like Microsoft, which is so much fun.”
Sjaak Hullekes will present his new menswear collection on Saturday 14 July at 06.00 PM
Today Collectie Arnhem presented it’s new collection designed by a group of ArtEZ students. Their designs came with bold stripes, enormous ruffles, sequins and neon colors. Male and female students walked the catwalk to the loud beat that was played in high heels and bright stocking. They wore pants with enormous legs, wide tops and long stiff dresses. Their faces were neon colored and they wore bright caps. It felt a bit like a circus but we certainly got a positive vibe from it!
We spotted a serious front row at Collectie Arnhem today. The editors of Grazia, Vogue NL, ELLE and Glamour were all there. And though the fashion week wasn’t even started yet officially, everyone seemed eager for a new week of Dutch fashion.
On thursday night, right after Topshop was opened in Amsterdam, Arnhem became the fashion hotspot again. There the fashion crowd (and many moms, dads, brothers, sisters and friends) gathered for the graduation show (one of a total of 5 shows!!) of 22 ArtEZ students. In a warm, sold out and fully packed show area, which is part of the Arnhem Mode Biënnale, we witnessed one and a half hour of some great ArtEZ fashion.
The collections of all 22 students couldn’t be more diverse. From childrenswear (Cleome Clements) to minimalistic (Sanne Schepers)- and survival (Jarwo Gibson) wear, from skinhead styles (Tom Nijhuis) to asymmetric items (AnneMarie Keizers) and from on trend fashion (Zonia van Uden) to over the top, structured designs (Annie Bosman); a perfect mix of signatures and styles.
ArtEZ seemed especially proud of talents like Linda de Jong, Anne Bosman (structured menswear), Mattia Akkermans (bright designs, crazy styling), Magnus Dekker (a collection made out of flags) and Sanne Schepers.
Linda de Jong presented some extraordinary selfmade fabrics. She showed a lot of knitwear and even used plastic in some of her Chanel-inspired designs.
Another great collection was made by Sanna Schepers. Sanne showed skirts and tops, which were scecretly attached to each other. Her designs looked simple, but in fact were made out of some difficult constructions.
A graduation student who really stood out too is William Tan. His designs (he showed so many looks) were perfectly tailored and his prints were stunning.
All these students proved they have a clear vision of their own style and potential. They also know how to turn 6 or 7 looks into a collection, which not everyone can.
ArtEZ received a Grand Seigneur this month; a corpus award for people/companies in the fashion industry and judging from some of the great collections we saw this award was well deserved.
Check out the gallery below.
Jil Sander and Prada designed two of the most popular collections of this season, which made their contribution to the Arnhem Mode Biënnale extra special. Prada brought pieces of their actual Milan catwalk to Arnhem and Jil Sander’s collection can be looked at through several magnifying lenses.
Check out the gallery below:
A design made by Iris van Herpen is placed within the exposition as a fountain. The design (A/W 2011) already told a great story on water and now this story is visualized even better.
Klavers van Engelen showed their airy designs, brought to live by small windmills, making the dresses dance with the wind. Their question: “Wanna Dance Amber?”