Two Legged Creatures Catwalk LAB Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

We can probably all remember the dark, bloody and somewhat uneasy show from last january. Models creating a trail of blood while they walked down the runway, we could’ve almost called it ‘two legged red blooded creatures’. Well, it wasn’t all of that this time. Designer Stefanie Klompenhouwer is unwinding. She found it was time for some serenity, beauty and pleasure. Bring in the euphoria (please, don’t bring up the Loreen song now), in sloooow motion. Perfectly backed up by Baby Alpaca’s Sea of Dreams music track, to create a smashing dreamy vibe.

The show started with two models who soon turned out to be modern dancers. Their (two) legs and arms floating around like walking through a mysterious landscape. A landscape where people are wearing clothes influenced by classical ballet and 90’s club culture (look at those Gwen Stefani/No Doubt hair knots!). Reflecting the contrast between discipline and tradition on the one hand and unbridled freedom, unconstrained by rules, on the other. Metallic blue and orange bomber jackets and skirts are combined with light designs, made of soft, delicate materials in cream and soft pink. Chunky wedges had shiny ballerina ribbons tight around the ankles. “There’s enough in life that can bring us down or stress us out. A moment of serenity, art and beauty from time to time might just be all we need”, the show notes read to us. And for the last 7 minutes we had nothing but that.

Miriam Reikerstorfer + Elke van Zuylen LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

Funny how we can ignore such a big and influential thing like our subconscious. It was the key to the new collection of Austrian born designer Miriam Reikerstorfer. “This particular collection is inspired by suppressed feelings and fears. The subconscious influences our daily decisions, even if we don’t realize it. It is the part of our psyche that is just below the conscious mind and is capable of jumping to the forefront at any time. On a daily basis, people suppress their feelings, dreams, and fears, as well as their sexual desire, I believe it is an endless pool of inspiration.”

Are we afraid? Is there not enough awareness? Why not see the beauty in it and see what it can teach us. Let’s make the dark light again, and the bad good. The contradiction is very obvious in the soft versus hard elements. Tender fabrics with hand-dyed details and delicate drapery. Hand-sewn sequins and hand-cut pieces, references to Miriam’s believe in the old traditions of haute couture. The harsher elements were seen for example in the cornrow-hair, straight trousers and the top with huge hoodie (it might become a favourite for Dutch songstress Kovacs). The bright pink mixed so well with the taupe and dark (red) hues. ‘Things I get obsessed about’, the music echoes over the venue. Oh yes, there are definitely some things in this collection we can obsess about.

Elke van Zuylen
The second part of the show was for Elke van Zuylen to show her new collection named ‘NoNoCake’. Another show that was about emotions, to be more precise: shyness. She calls it the ‘The Shy-Movement’. Why? Perhaps she’s tired of people putting themselves out there all the time, feeling like the centre of the universe. Always online, always present. And more or less we all suffer from FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). Extravert people are celebrated, introverts are considered less fun and exciting. But is it? According to Elke there’s more to shy people than meets the eye. ‘Stille wateren hebben diepe gronden’, as we like to call it in Holland. Take this and her fascination for Japanese and Korean (sub)cultures, and we’re talking the core of this collection. It showed in the pom pom hair of the models, the komono-ish jackets, soft and silky pyjama fabrics and other geisha and Harajuku references. Interesting was the layering part, such as a white see-through bralette sewed on a maxi-dress or a XL tulle skirt worn underneath a night blue velvet tunic. If this resembles shyness, there’s nothing to be ashamed of.

Tony Cohen Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Influenced and inspired by recent personal experiences Tony Cohen named his SS2017 collection Restrained & Release. Never before did he choose a theme so strongly related to his feelings, as he mentioned in the show notes. The feeling of being stuck versus finding freedom translated to couture creations in which bondage structures and airy supple silhouettes alternated each other.
Freedom was written all over the large and elegant silhouettes as the contrary was visible in tight enlaced looks cinched by black ribbons, leather belts and even corsets. Mostly black and white hues as well as mono prints symbolized Cohen’s idea of light and dark. A few touches of dusty pink were pleasant. Cohen’s signature pleats were given a twist, turning into fan structures.
Overall quite experimental ideas translated into more wearable pret a porter pieces. Now it’s up to the Cohen woman to decide. Does she want to be all tied up or let loose?
Since it’s Friday night we’re opting for the latter. Cheers to the weekend!

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

“… The two girls grew up at the edge of the ocean and knew it was paradise, and better than Eden, which was only a garden…” – Eve Babitz –

‘Eden’ is the name of SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers’ brand new collection presented at the Gashouder on Friday night. A collection full of passion, leering and seductive giving the audience a taste of life without limits. Clothes designed for the love ones, invisible to those who don’t know love and inspired by stories about Paradise. For decisive women who like to be challenged to investigate, experience and be loved endlessly.

As with every collection Truus and Riet once again picked a muse. They found their free loving rebel in party-girl, style icon and artist Eve Babitz.

How this all translated into wearable womenswear looks, you wonder? Well, love was written all over the daring, sometimes revealing fabrics. Models paraded around in airy dresses, blouses and skirts made of silks and viscose crepes. Elegant designs mixed with sportive touches. Just as jackets, bombers and shorts added some contrast to the Love-themed collection. Floral prints and stripes met each other halfway. Beige suede pants and a leave printed green shirt formed a rather casual outing. As an off shoulder airy printed dress added some seductive sassiness. Richly decorated T-shirts and sweaters were given an admirable designer touch and the graphic SIS details were unmistakable.

If we ever have to deal with a Paradise dresscode, we know who to turn to. We don’t just like this, we LOVE it!

Jef Montes Amsterdam Fashion Week Experience SS2017

Ever experienced a massive storm? Well at Jef Montes you were in for a treat! No straight up catwalk show here, the young designer set up a fashion experience. An experience for himself as well as for the audience. Jef Montes decided to create the opening outfit of his brand new collection Tormenta (storm) in front of his guests. A chance for us to take a look inside his design studio, see how it’s done. Not your average workplace we tell you! Like a true storm Jef Montes raged around his experience space using all different types of chemicals to create his design. We got to witness all design phases; epoxy at first and finally black ink to cover it all; the dress, the space and himself. The result? Some fascinating designs shown against an eerie backdrop representing Jef Montes’ thought on life in the here and now as well as the hereafter. We’re blown away (by the storm). Quite the experience.

DANIAL AITOUGANOV wins LICHTING 2016

On Thursday night the Dutch fasion scene gathered at the Gashouder to attend the Lichting 2016 show. After ten years of Lichting show this was the first time the Amsterdam Fashion Week scheduled the young talent award show on the opening night.

Fourteen fashion graduates presented their impressive graduation collections to an international jury of fashion professionals and of course the audience. Sometimes chic and wearable other times fantasy driven en over the top, but always outstanding en qualitative. There were two awards to be won; one winner to be chosen by the jury, the other voted for by the audience.

Danial Aitouganov graduated at AMFI became the big winner of the night. He presented five looks from his “The second sex – vol. II” collection, an expressive and colorful collection based on the idea of a forth feminist wave; a generation of women who with the right manner fight for their right. Daniel won the Lichting Award; a money prize of 10.000 euro to be used on the development of his work.

The audience’s favorite turned out to be Marlou Breuls, also an AMFI graduate. With her outstanding red hot collection, including a majestic dress made out of a carpet, she won the Audience Favorite Award powered by Converse, a money prize of €3.000,-.

Congrats to the winners!

Karim Adduchi Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Aaand fashion week is officially started! Illustrator, artist and fashion designer Karim Adduchi (1988, Imzouren, Marokko) opened a fashion filled week with his ‘She lives behind the courtyard door’- collection. Ignoring trends and other fashion codes Adduchi took us to a place where tradition and mystic determine everything. His designs represented hidden beauty and strength, as colors and patterns also referred to Adduchi’s Moroccan roots, his dreams and barriers. Lots of focus on detail, which is much appreciated after years and years of minimalism. Carpets, both fresh from the loom and antique, are draped and sculpted, combined and mixed, their heavy wool textures contrasted by the occasional shimmer of elaborate modern details. All pieces are handmade and unique; the carpets hand-loomed in Morocco, the seams hand-stitched by Adduchi. Drawing inspiration from his own heritage, reconstructing it and using this history to tell us about courtyards and the women living in them. Adduchi invited us to create our own story, handing us the material to dream and to follow him behind the courtyard door. Adduchi is a storyteller, and fashion is his way of communicating without having to speak. Oh well, enough words, just take a look at the image gallery above and you get an idea.

Backstage at Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Paris FW2016

Take a look backstag at the Viktor & Rolf show yesterday in Paris. Hair- and beautyteams preparing the models, the dresses getting a last finish and oh, take a closer look at those beautiful fabrics.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Fashion Show FW2016

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have kept everything from their old collections, even the leftover silver sequins from the collection that won the Dutch duo top prize at the Hyères festival back in 1993.

They repurposed those sequins, and scraps from collections across their career, for their fall couture collection, weaving their own fashion history into rag-rug embellishments on vintage trenchcoats, military jackets, sweatshirts and denim.

Their impulse was sustainability — and to challenge themselves to create something different from fragments of the past. There were bits from their “Blue Screen” and “Van Gogh” shows — fall 2002 ready-to-wear and spring 2015 couture, respectively.

Beyond the fabrics, the silhouettes referenced past Viktor & Rolf shows, particularly the bulging finale coats, recalling their “Russian Doll” collection.

The sweatshirts and military jackets were marvels of jutting ruffles and twinkling patches of vintage buttons and errant crystals, the patches repeating on cropped jeans and khakis. The show reached a dramatic crescendo with a clutch of trenchcoats that morphed into full-skirted ballgowns, scraps of tulle tinted into delicate dégradés.

The white gown that capped the display also winked to Viktor & Rolf’s next move: A collection of wedding dresses to debut in October during New York Bridal Week.

Streetfashion Haute Couture Paris FW2016

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Week.

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