Preview AIFW – Sage & Ivy SS2012

The Sage & Ivy fashion show is part of the official Amsterdam International Fashion Week program for the first time this season. Yet, as designer Alexia van Engelen tells us, the label is still giving the audience something different…

“When we were approached by the AIFW if we wanted to join the official schedule, we had one condition: we still wanted to be able to create our own little Sage & Ivy world around the show. We didn’t want to use just an ordinary, plain, white catwalk. We discussed all possibilities and are now showing the new Sage & Ivy collection near the pond of the Westergasterrein. This means the models are going to be walking on a catwalk build over water. We’re very excited”

And though the concept alone is already interesting, water has a special meaning in Alexia’s new collection too. “The collection is called hemisphere and is inspired by water. Yet not in an too obvious matter. You’ll see the water in reflections, the golden color it creates when the sun sets, the many colors that appear when the sun shines at it and the transparency of water.”

These diverse sides of water are brought to live in a two sided collection. “On one side it shows Greek influences like draping, braiding and lots of volume. On the other side you’ll see day wear with a seventies vibe (high pants and accentuated shoulders). Bianca Jagger really was the inspiration for this since she used to mix those two styles together in her impeccable looks.”

The whole Sage & Ivy collection consists of 24 looks, all handcrafted in small studios in Belgium and Germany (no longer in Morocco, like before). The fabrics as well as the colors of the collection breath femininity. “We used shades like light pink, light green, grey, gold and some degrade. All looks were made from materials like jersey, lace, chiffon, organza, satin, cotton and a special wool melange. There are many feminine pieces in the collection but in the show we will always combine a very feminine, elaborating item with a more simple and cool (almost manly) piece. Just wait and see…”

The Sage & Ivy show will be held on Friday 15 July at 8 p.m.

Preview AIFW – Quoc Thang SS2012

With his new collection of menswear (Quoc Thang has been making menswear for the past 1,5 years) Quoc Thang is about to head into a whole new direction. It will be his third time presenting his collection during Amsterdam International Fashion Week and he couldn’t be more excited.

AIFW
“Presenting my work during fashion week is a great way to reach a big audience. Perhaps it doesn’t directly result in making a lot of money, but artistically it’s the right thing to do.”

Adventurer
Thang’s new collection tells the story of an adventurer defying cold area’s in search of security and safety. “It’s called A Place Over There (Een Plek Daarginds in Dutch) and – like all my collections so far – it has something to do with the vulnerability and transitory of life. My inspiration comes from conversations, exhibitions and every day things. I always write things down.”

Shades & fabrics
“The new collection is pretty silent when it comes to color. We used multiple blues and greys and a touch of green here and there. The designs are made of fabrics like high tech nylon and wool. We also used a waxed cotton, which we’re very proud of since it’s hard to get.”

Changes
“Everything will be completely different; our strategy, our philosophy and the way we built up the collection. We used the 3 x 3 x 3 concept, based on the idea of a pair of pants, a top and a jacket.” It might sound somewhat vague right now, but according to Thang everyone will immediately be able to see the changes he made during the show.

Thang’s motivation to head into this new direction seems reasonable: “We noticed the big audience wasn’t really getting our collections when we showed them. We – and I think fashion in general – are ready for something new.”

And with just a few days ahead before the show Quoc Thang couldn’t be more prepared. “Our collection is completely ready, so we’re not worrying about time. I’ve done this a few times now so I now the ropes.”

Quoc Thang will present his collection on Saturday 16 July at 6 p.m.

Iris van Herpen Couture Collection Paris FW2012

With the presentation of her fall-winter 2012 collection during Paris couture-week Iris van Herpen proved that couture is really a platform for creativity. She keeps testing the limits with her creations, and no one on day one of the three-day-long couture calendar came anywhere near to pushing the envelope as far as Iris van Herpen.

What to think of a halter-dress made from what appeared to be a distended skeleton? Or the shiny black tubes that enveloped another mini-dress? Van Herpen presented old and new work, but it all morphs easily into one collection, the difference lies into the techniques, use of fabrics and themes. But what stays is her impressive dark techno style that’s original, exciting and fresh.

Jan Taminiau Couture Collection Paris FW2012

Dutch designer Jan Taminiau seemed to be the first designer to kick off Haute Couture week in Paris, unofficially that is. While everybody was awaiting the Dior couture-show (is there already a new designer?), Jan prepared his collection quietly. Nature Extends is the name of the collection, that was an unusual mix of cork and rich, flowing materials like chiffon. The fabrics and materials were sculpted into long, dramatic high collared dresses and tight suits. Colors changed from silver sequins into gray, taupe, brown/yellow.

Menswear Trend Report SS2011: Checks Please!

Checks are always present in the new menswear collections and this season was no exception. From D&G to Hermes, Dries van Noten, Kenzo, Viktor & Rolf and Versace; all used checks in their spring/summer 2011 collections.

D&G placed them on their summer blouses, Dsquared, Hermes and John Richmond opted for a checked shirt and Versace, Zegna and Dries van Noten presented checked tailored suit jackets.

Though the completely checked look can be too much for anyone who doesn’t work in fashion, you certainly can’t go wrong with just one checked item. Go for some large checks (this seems to be the trend this season) and complete your look by adding clean one-colored items.

Check out our gallery above for some inspiration.

Menswear Trend Report SS2011: Bright & Shiny

The biggest summer trend in womenswear without a doubt was the colorblocking trend. Gucci, Jil Sander and Prada set the tone with their collections and the trend immediately was picked up. In menswear the same thing happened, though a bit more subtle. Here Kenzo, Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton showed some bright hues too. Yet it was Jil Sander that went for colorblocking all the way.

Though the trend wasn’t as big in menswear as it was in womenswear; men certainly are wearing more brights this season. Mixing several bright colors together in one look might be a little too much for some men, but at least the designers above brought some of the fun back in fashion.

Check out our gallery for some of the brightest summer looks.

Round Up Paris/Milan Menswear SS2012

Responding to the shout out for creative design, as cited by Suzy Menkes in International Herald Tribune, we proceed like cherry pickers this season. Heading for fun and unexpected novelty we picked out the more juicy and snappy influences. Starting with the ETHNIC, here as a proven of artisanal excellence by Burberry Prorsum. Stating the omnipresence of THE DEEP BLUE, the most-favoured shade of the season (Dries van Noten). Happily shaken up by mashed up CHECKS as masterly executed by Raf Simons. Soothed by relaxed SANDBLASTED Sahara tailoring (Salvatore Ferragamo) appealing to our sense for well being. To conclude with the big bouncer, a fun feel for ECCENTRIC, with which Prada, amongst others, keeps up the spirit.

ETHNIC

Tribal pattern meets sporty elegance. Military tailoring adds detail to most minimal silhouettes. The story is mainly about pattern and finishing. Maasai warriors line up with modern day happy hippies. In warm earth and spice tones mingled with happy brights. The Burberry Prorsum collection is exemplary and celebrates its artisan roots.

 

THE DEEP BLUE

The international catwalks were flooded with deep, dense blue. Some items gleaming in wet look surfaces where others more natural and relaxed. Tension in graduated toning and shading as well as in texture where structure meets softness and natural meets high-tech. Roomy parkas and trench coats come in silks as well as nylon and sporty shorts layer long pants.

 

CHECKS

Checks serve the feel for pattern and print. From classic tartans and plaids at Gaultier, intricate kinetic patchwork at Raf Simons to slim silhouettes in black and white 60s mod checks at Gucci. Moncler Gamme Blue speeds up towards a more racy and sporty flow.

 

SANDBLASTED

Travelling south to Côte d’Azur while heading for Sahara desert. Safari and utilitarian jackets and pants with khaki as a key color. Jackets are belted and pants are wide at Salvatore Ferragamo. YSL presents some surprising placed lace-up details. Fabrics are plain and natural in pure cotton and linen looks.

 

ECCENTRIC

Think American tourists playing golf in the 50s. A touch of Hawaii and American retro with a fun dose of bad taste. Tailored, double-breasted suits mismatch with loud clashing floral printed shirts or pants. Western shirts embellished with rhinestones, recall memories of young Elvis. Prada and Kenzo spice up there ranges with funky, colourful accessories

 

 

SPORTSWEAR

The Olympics next year seem to have energised the runway shows and positioned sport at the heart of fashion. Outdoor inspiration leads to functional garments with a utilitarian foundation. Hiking, fishing, sailing and hunting as well as golf, all fuelled with a healthy dose of irony. Mesh serves as a key fabric look at both Dolce & Gabbana and Moncler Gamme Bleu.

 

FOULARD

This will become big! Celine was the one to set off with foulard prints last season, with Prada in her footsteps starring panel printed monkeys and bananas. Now time is ripe for a true 80’s Versace revival of loud head to toe decorative foulard patterns as staged by D&G. Brave, bold and baroque. It concludes in a look reminiscent of muscle boys as photographed by Bruce Weber and Herb Ritts in the 80’s.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Menswear Trend Report SS2011: Printed (All Over)

While men are mostly careful when it comes to wearing prints, there’s no reason for them to hold back anymore. The all over printed look was a huge theme on the runway and the great thing about it: you can do no wrong.

Wanna go for a all over skull print? Commes des Garcons says that’s cool! Feeling more like some bright graphic print? According to Cavalli it’s pretty hot. And if leopard (Givenchy), army (Emporio Armani), ethnic (Etro), black & white (Versace) or 3D (Jean Paul Gaultier) is more your thing, go for it!

There are no rules and no limits. Even mixing different prints together in one look is perfectly fine. But if a checked blazer (Dries van Noten) is funky enough for you than that’s alright too.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Menswear Trend Report SS2011: Striking Stripes

Stripes are always popular in menswear and especially this season they were hard to miss. Many fashion houses sported stripes on the runway and not all in a navy (Iceberg, Junya Watanabe) kind of way.

Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Gianfranco Ferre and Galliano showed very diverse, multicolored stripy items. Whether faded, bright, horizontal or vertical; with some stripes in your outfit, you’ll sure make a striking appearance.

Check out our gallery for some inspiration.

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