Salvatore Ferragamo Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Ferragamo’s designer Massimiliano Giornetti mixed the city street and the tropical outdoors in a collection that seemed young for a brand that’s been in business for nearly 90 years.

Working against a backdrop of palms and tropical greens the creative director sent out models in baseball caps wearing sports-inspired riffs on the traditional suit. Baseball style and other abbreviated jackets were done in pinstripes — some with contrast piping — and were paired with roomy, pleated trousers. More traditional suits were worn over T-shirts, or layered over sweaters accessorized with colorful skinny ties. Colors were of the earth — plum, ochre, cocoa, turquoise and palm leaf green — and came in blocks or stripes on everything from knits to outerwear. Baseball and leather jackets were adorned with cactus and monkey designs on the back — Fifties greaser style — while one sweater was paved with varsity letter patches, in keeping with the youthful spin.

 

Calvin Klein Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show MIlan SS2016

 Italo Zucchelli’s collection for Calvin Klein was single-minded, reductive and repetitive — and it was all the better for it. For the designer distilled the essence of the brand — clean, minimal and as urbane as New York City — into his muscular tailoring and military-ish sportswear.

Sturdy fabrics like cotton-twill added stiffness to topcoats and short, strong-shouldered jackets. Zucchelli also employed cotton twills and jacquards to approximate a signature of the brand — denim — giving jeans and jean jackets a worn, yet sculptural aspect. The other main ingredients were military parkas, cropped nylon bombers, boxy T-shirts, and narrow chinos with a wavy loop of fabric tacked to the waistband, echoing the lacquered waves of color winking from sleeveless T-shirts layered under gauzy sweaters.

Some of the chinos and bombers were riddled with enough removable utility pockets to carry keys, smokes and cell phones.

 

 

Trend Report SS15: Romantic Goth

Goth styles have been coming and going season after season. No shocker! Yet, fashion may repeat itself, even the Goth trend gets a different twist every time. For spring/summer you can either choose for sporty or romantic, or a mix of both. Mesh fabrics (Balenciaga, DKNY, Versace) and sheerness (Costume National) go hand in hand with the Goth appearance. While femininity and sexiness (Dolce & Gabbana) make convincing all black attires too. It’s just a matter of styling and make-up whether you take it to the dark (and perhaps a little scary) side. Super smokey eyes (Tom Ford) bleached brows (Givenchy) or red eyeshadow (MaxMara) will do the Goth trick. Same goes for chokers (Versace) and crosses (Givenchy). But no need to follow the lead. This trend has had so many revivals any interpretation will do. Add your Nikes, if you feel like it. Or go for a seductive high heel instead. Health or glam; have it your way. The catwalk images below illustrate how it’s done. Goth it?

Versace Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Donatella Versace sent out a desert-inspired collection with laid-back silhouettes, lots of layers and bursts of warm color.
The designer layered long and fluttery printed shirts under plum, sand and olive suits — and even sent some out solo and belted like whisper thin robes. Pinstripes were made to look faded — as if bleached by the sun — as were muted tie-dye prints on suits and scarves, while tuxedo trousers with a drop crotch had a breezy Eastern feel.

Models in flowing, knotted silk headscarves — and wearing sandals and socks — made their way down the sandy catwalk dressed in languid, pajama-like suits and hooded bomber jackets printed with hand-drawn rosettes or patterns inspired by the Versace Home collection, such as cushions and chairs.

Bomber jackets came in plum leather or caramel with a subtle argyle pattern picked across them, while washed silk coats had oversized patch pockets, presumably for storing a compass, map and camel snacks. Knits — which rarely take a starring role on the Versace runway — were a treat, with one dip-dyed number glowing with colors as bright as a desert rose — purple, pink and blue. Other elongated knits came with slashes at the elbow or the shoulders, teasing with small windows onto the body, the only hint of flesh in the entire show.

Bottega Veneta Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Tomas Maier has been steering the brand in an athletic meets leisure direction for some time now, and for ss16 he presented a luxe wardrobe for five-star trekking in the Black Forest. “A journey back to nature,” the designer said of his outdoor-like collection, an ode to earthy colors, mossy textures and slouchy or active silhouettes.
Much of this trail gear was literal — anoraks, windbreakers, climbing pants, Sherpa sweaters — albeit done with Maier’s sophisticated eye for colors and fabrics. He also blended in lounge-y items, including bedroom jackets and crumpled pants in ticking stripes. And of course the new normal detail: socks in sandals. It’s official now.

Neil Barrett Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

Neil Barrett stepped away from his sporty, street-vibe style and managed to change masculine classics from around the world to a modern universal wardrobe. The look was still urban and fresh, yet more ageless in design. He used batik prints, camouflage, nautical stripes and kimono patterns – reworked and fused together to conjure “an idea of a global masculinity.”  The mix of patterns did not overwhelm, because Barrett kept them together with one color story: all gradations of navy and indigo, with touches of black and white. The tight palette counterbalanced a wider spectrum of fabrics, with lots of denim. Low in the crotch but narrow on the hip, cuffed or with rolled-up hems, the  indigo bottoms let off an air of American workwear. Barrett performed the trick on non-denim, too, experimenting with slouchy and easy silhouettes as opposed to his usual sharp-cut look. As for tops, the designer went with spring’s hot new category: sleeveless V-neck tunics.

Marni Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

With a Tim Burton-esque soundtrack playing in the backround, Consuelo Castiglioni’s return to the Milan runway with Marni men’s wear captured the awkward juncture between boyhood and the adult world. Outsized collars splayed over leisure suits that could have been nabbed from an uncle’s Seventies vacation wardrobe. Pants, whether loose or slim, were often too short and showed chunky socks and sandals.

It all had a naïve charm that was true to Castiglioni’s retro-tinged aesthetic. She embraced workwear codes to explore that no-man’s land between leisure and the office: employing lots of Maytag-repairman blue, or shades evoking Soviet-era uniforms; adding utility pockets to shrunken blazers, and splicing suit sleeves onto boxy shirts. Somehow the queasy colors, funny shapes and occasional flash of noisy floral prints managed to work together.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

In a season marked by soft shapes and rivers of fluid fabric, Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga presented a Jil Sander-collection with full of geometric shapes and far from soft & fluid silhouettes. Trousers stretched only to mid-calf, while suits came with knee-skimming shorts, and were made from lightweight leather, shiny, coated canvas, or crinkly parachute nylon.

The muted palette featured dove-gray, pale olive and black, while adornment came as a utility strap running down the side of a sleeve, and rectangular, colored patches in leather or dark shades of blue or brown. Bright abstract Japanese-style flower patches on denim jackets and snappy short-sleeved shirts added much-needed perk to the collection.

Streetstyle Icon: Helena Bordon

She is the daughter of Donata Meirelles, former international director of the Sao Paulo boutique Daslu and current style director of Brazilian Vogue. So no wonder Helena Bordon simply breaths fashion and style. Not to mention she earned her fashion credits herself.. The Brazilian beauty is a designer (she recently designed a capsule jewelry collection for Brazilian company LOOL), an entrepreneur (she’s the co-founder of the high-street fashion chain 284 (think: Zara of Brazil)) and a blogger (helenabordon.com). She effortlessly matches her Fendi bag with her MiuMiu coat and Gianvito Rossi shoes. While she can look casual cool in J Brand jeans, James Perse T-shirts, and Tod’s flats. A perfect blonde do and a sunkissed skin to match. Helena is always in the mood for some color or print and loves to support local designers: “Every time I go to Paris Fashion Week I try to bring Brazilian designers with me—to introduce them to the world.” She documents those travels as well as fashion picks, favorite restaurants and stores on her blog and she curates an e-commerce section. Her style changes a lot, therefore Helena has had countless totally different streetstyle appearances. But she has made a name for herself and is recognized by fan and photogs in every fashion capital she visits. Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, Kate Moss, Kate Bosworth and Miroslava Duma are some fashion ladies Helena would love to switch closets with. Yet with pieces from Chanel, Dior, Elie Saab, Prada and Peter Pilotto, we figure she has more than enough designer items to pick from herself. Now let’s drool over some of her coolest streetstyle pics…

Model Focus: Rianne Van Rompaey

She exclusively walked the Prada and Louis Vuitton AWshows. Well, what more could a fresh faced model ask for? Rianne Van Rompaey aimed high, dared to be selective and is now taking the fashion world by storm. She may not have walked that many runways, but judging by her publications and campaigns the 19 year old Dutchie doesn’t even need that. Rianne graced the covers of iD magazine, Rika magazine and Vogue Italia. She was featured in British Vogue, Industrie magazine and Love magazine, to name just a few. Her strawberry blond hair and green penetrating eyes make this upcoming Paparazzi Model Management talent easy to remember and hard to forget.

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