Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #8

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

For the Nina Ricci SS2010 collection a new designer was in charge. Peter Copping, who has worked for Louis Vuitton, showed off his designer skills. As seen in many more collections for next spring/summer Copping used lots of nudes. There were some very cute frilly dresses made from tule, which had a lot of volume. Many of the dresses had multiple layers and collars adorned with tule. Those details gave the designs a romantic feeling. Prints were shown in only in one outfit. A floral printed dress was combined with a more subtle transparent cape. Also silky and lace fabrics were shown. The models carried perfectly matching clutches. They wore their hair in knots with some strings  all over their face. At the end of the show Copping combined the nudes with black and navy blue. Overall he designed a wearable collection in line with what Nina Ricci stands for. (Tess van Daelen)

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

As in his earlier collections Rick Owens used a lot of black and white. Only this time most of the designs were a combination of the two instead of being all white or black. Therefore the collection seemed a bit more cheerful. The clothes were characterized by asymmetry and crazy shapes. Models wore shorts combined with long jackets and gilets. A few jackets had large bumps at the back that looked like enormous stitched-on backpacks. Some jumpsuits had legs so long the models were walking on the fabric. As seen before with Owens the funny suede saggy boots were back. Strange details were added on many of the designs. One was a long piece of fabric that slipped between the legs of the models as they walked the runway. Another was a black pom pom-looking item attached on the waists of some models. Although these details didn’t make a lot of sense, they proved Owens’ skill in experimenting with different shapes. (Tess van Daelen)

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #3

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Another hot collection from designer Christophe Decarnin for Balmain. The rock chick is still alive and kicking. And she still likes to wear her sexy, bodyhugging dresses, skinny (leather) trousers, miniskirts and jackets with shoulder-pads. Only this time she went a little bit wild: T-shirts were torn and had holes, skirts looked as if they were shredded and dirty colors like militairy-green and shades of brown were favorite. She’ll survive, we know that for sure.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Another surprising show of Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, but not really what people expected. After his elegant Parisienne in draped jerseys, skirts and trousers – a look much copied this season – this collection looked a bit disappointing because it looked so familiar. The sporty and eclectic outfits had elements of former collections, the shiny black skinny  trousers,  sleeveless shirts with graphic lines in yellow and white and a patchwork of fabrics and colors for  dresses and skirts. It didn’t give a visible  answer to what the fashionworld needs right now. Although Ghesquieres answer might have been in the music-lyrics: back to the start again.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Gareth Pugh is fashion’s new darling. And everybody want to be part of his popularity these days regarding all the vips front row like Rihanna and Michael Stipe. For his ss 2010 collection Pugh moved away from his hard edged super-structured looks, this time he emphasized a more romantic and softer mood. The first outfit—an loose trench over a floating chiffon dress in  shades of gray—set the mood, along with wrapped heads, makeup that shaded the models’ faces as though they’d walked through an ash cloud. Of course Pugh experimented with fabrics: feather-light tops, micro-pleats or slashed crepe & chiffon for dresses and pants. This collection seemed a new step for Gareth Pugh, daring but effective.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Marco Zanini presented his second collection for Rochas on the runway. He added more color and print to a collection that was built on slip dressing, tailoring, and knits. His starting point seemed a French woman in the colonies. He translated that in shades of aubergine, paprika, saffron, lemon, turquoise, and mint. Belts and flowers (also in prints), sandals and ankle socks were his favorite accessories. The collection focused at slipdresses, sheer, sleeveless blouses (with retro bra), cropped trousers or short knit dresses with a flaring ice-skater skirt.

Dsquared Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

The invitation for the Dsquared SS2010 fashion show on a piece of wood already gave the theme away. Like the menswear collection of this year it was all about camping. With untidy braids the girls looked as if they’d just got out of bed, put on their caps and glasses and were on their way to the campsite toiletbuilding. They wore boots with colorful socks sticking out. There were funny camp-related details like large ants, colorful birds and plasters. Other repetitive parts of the show were black flowers and silver spikes. Materials like silk, cotton and nylon were used. Some army and Scottish tartan prints appeared. Of course Dean and Dan designed some jeans, but apart from their bright yellow color, these were not that special. Some waterproof coats, dresses and backpacks came by. The ultimate camping-pants were formed by an orange multifunctional piece with countless pockets. Overall the show was a messy camping spectacle. Thanks to the theme it was fun to watch, but the clothes were not very renewing.(Tess van Daelen)

Versus Fashion Presentation ss2010

It’s Christopher Kane’s new task to bring life back into Versus, the second line of the Versace-house which was hot in the nineties. The models were being placed on plinths to display the 25 wool, lace, and laser-cut neoprene dresses Kane has designed for his debut.  Donatella Versace herself was walking around looking over the group of black, mushroom, and sizzling red dresses. One dress was detailed with slashes held together with pink, red, and green aluminum safety pins—a reinvention of the dress that made  Elizabeth Hurley famous in 1994.

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