DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

Phew! That was a hell of a collection and show at DSquared, especially after such a trendsetting show at Prada.  Men put in cages of glass, models landing at the runway behind the bars of an old elevator, elektro-disco yelling and clothes that looked like twin-brothers Caten revisited The Matrix.

They took the successful movie as one of their reference points, but also manga and Jekyll and Hyde. The result was a dark sci-fi collection full of black leather, latex and red details (underwear, gloves, legs).  It was all about shape and a sharp silhouet softened by fur-coats. There were some nice pieces: a leather and wool trench, some tailored jackets and a chic Forties-style dress, nipped at the waist and cut with a wide neck. Hopefully they will make the pencilskirts with a split before they hit the stores, because models could hardly walk in them.

Extremes were the high heels with spines as the heel, veins in blue and red drawn at a nude top, metal chains and bones-accessoiries.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

You don’t wanna fight with the new Prada-woman. She looks sensuous and very elegant in her 50’s housewive dresses, but she’s in control and self assured. She is who she is.

This was yet another Prada-collection which leaves you distressed and thinking about what was going on. Someone called it retro-future, severe chic or restraint meets assertiveness,  I would call it women breaking free. Disturbing jazz filled the room and the models were walking down the runway with beehive-hair, bare faces and in prim dresses with high pointed shoes.

Take a closer look and you see the silhouette of the breasts sticking out, push up ruffle bra-dresses and a glimpse of knitted collars at chic coats and LBD’s with a plastic ruffle. It was exciting to see fuller-figured girls at the show – Doutzen Kroes and Lara Stone a.o. – who walked secure and celebrated their femininity. Interesting were the sweater-dressing – a blue cable knit at a full cable knit skirt – the dark 50′ prints and the rubber coats in camel. The collection was about sex appeal, but in Prada’s world, it’s not about baring all. It was conservative, sometimes almost funereal, except for the suggestive, exaggerated focus at the bust.

Hopefully the thick knitted knee-highs and maillots don’t itch too much, because they add just that edgy touch to the outfits. Especially worn with those fragile looking patent leather shoes.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

Karl Lagerfeld dared to combine two big fall trends in his Fendi collection: fur and patchwork. His patchwork fur coats came by in all shapes, sizes and colors. Yet none of those coats convinced us that the combination of fur and patchwork will become a huge hit. Especially not the first one, in white, gray and black. It looked like a mix of a panda- and a dolphin suit and didn’t do anything for the model’s body. Other patchworks in hues of beige, camel and brown were better, but never stunning. It just seemed very unnatural to combine so many different types of fur in one design.

Front row guest Rachel  Zoe must have loved the show, though. Karl introduced some waistcoats in fur as well. And we’ve seen Rachel Zoe in one of those quite often…

Karl’s waistcoats were worn on top of long, loose-fitting skirts and blouses with wide sleeves. Brown waist belts finished the looks. A beige coat with matching dress, made from a fabric that resembled an enlarged corduroy, caught our attention. And the color pallet of green, brown and mustard yellow appeared to be lovely.

Towards the end of the show many black dresses were shown. In these dresses lots of texture, as well as some see-through fabric could be seen.  The dresses were transparent in all the right places and had just the perfect length. They looked elegant and feminine and were sexy enough to make some of the men at that cocktail party look twice.

Just Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

At today’s presentation of the Just Cavalli winter collection it was clear this line is aimed at young customers. Primary colors like blue, red and yellow were visible in almost every look. They were there in some leopard printed house pants and on a few crazy printed leggings. Even the fur on some coats came in those colors. Besides, some of the skirts and dresses were pretty short, teenage short you might say.

Fortunately Roberto Cavalli was able to add some sophistication to his collection as well. He designed some romantic, transparent blouses with ruffles on the neckline and on the sleeves. Yet we didn’t really get the sort of bib he added on top of those blouses. It had it’s own ruffles and details and seemed to be tied at the models’ backs.

The crazy mixing continued when we saw wide belts, matched with short skirts and small jackets with pointy shoulders and fur collars, all in a different print.

By adding some tartan prints, multiple fans, necklaces with huge pendants and several patchwork sweaters Roberto Cavalli proved he dares to experiment. Though we admire his courage we advice to combine his items with more basics.

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

The D&G-girl won’t get a cold that easily next winter. She can dress head to toe in sexy, comfy, warm Nordic knits with a pair of big furry snow-boots at her feet.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana continued the ski-theme of their menswear-collection for next fall, but without the thick, blown up ski-wear. Their womens-collection was all about the big sweater – worn like a short dress with a belt-, shorts, vests and overalls in Nordic patterns (red, black and white). The pattern even turned up as a print on their jeans. The knits were not bulky, but more streamlined – and sometimes very tight – and mixed wonderful with the airy dresses, long skirts and blouses.

Of course this was a true commercial collection, but with lots of stuff to love. Ski-fashionistas will go for the glitzy ski-goggles, while a citygirl will love the warm vests, big bags and snow-boots. We’ll leave the furry bloomers and strapless, knitted tops for the advertisements.

Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

The Blugirl Fashion Show started off fresh and kind of angelic as the first few models appeared dressed in ivory (cream) shades from head to toe. Yet through the angelic image the Italian spirit of the brand was very clear as well. Models in animal printed dresses with matching gloves and headbands reminded us of that. Plus: the heavy use of embellishments like studs, crystals and sequins looked perfect for any Italian (Blu)girl.

Since knitwear was the starting point for the collection the clothes had a lot of texture. In one look you could have a heavy woolen coat with a floral patterned skirt combined with a legging in another graphic design.

We thought some of the chunky knits resembled fur, but according to the show notes they were even meant to replace fur. This ‘fake fur’ could be seen on many of the sleeves of the woolen coats.

After the animal prints the cream shades were mixed with dresses in gold lamé and clothes full of silver sequins. Then the collection turned a little darker. First gray, later on black.

We saw black knitwear combined with some sequined outfits. It also formed a nice combination with some black see-through lace. Some of the gray/black dresses, jackets and leggings were dip dyed.

All models wore multiple necklaces and two elastic bands, one at the beginning of their ponytail and one halfway. Some girls wore a sequined headband.

After all the black, the cream shade popped up one more time for the final, ‘bridal’ look. The last model wore a cream lace dress and a matching fur coat. On her head she had a tiara, in her hands she held a bouquet. It seemed like the perfect ending of a cohesive, textured, feminine and very Italian Blugirl collection.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

For the Calvin Klein fashion show young and old models were united. Doutzen Kroes was in the audience and watched topmodels from the 80’s/90’s, Kirsten McMenamy (1966) and Stella Tennant (1970), strolling down the runway. They walked in the show right next to beginning models such as Karlie Kloss (1992) and Dutch model Gwen Loos (1993).

All girls had the androgynous look (which made McMenamy and Tennant so famous) going on: their hair was combed backwards and their clothes were kind of stiff.

It was clear Francisco Costa let his clothes speak for themselves. He didn’t send anything on the runway that could distract you from that. So, no accessories, no bags, no special make-up, no crazy poses, just Calvin Klein fashion like we know it.

The designer came up with a few non-waisted woollen coats. Their shoulders were rounded and the sleeves were wide. Those coats were shown in black, brown and white. And apart from a blue and a lilac colored dress all designs came in those neutral shades.

Costa’s streamlined shift dresses and coats all ended just above the knee. Besides, his clothes were all pretty loose fitting so the collection did lack some sex appeal. The designer did use some shiny black and white (almost silver) silk for his pants, blouses and dresses. He also added a few sparkles on the last designs of his collection but it didn’t make a lot of difference.

Two good things about the clothes are (1) in a room full of people they won’t attract all the attention towards you and (2) you are never showing too much skin when you’re wearing them. Yet you’d have to have a strong, expressive personality to make some of the looks work.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After his ode to the American workers during the Depression, Ralph Lauren decided to take a more romantic road to fashion. The collection looked almost vintage Ralph Lauren, with its dark Edwardian touch, lots of velvet, black, burgundy and flowerprints.This is a style we know so well and which made him famous.

Ralph Lauren’s skill is to make the predictable look fresh. But he also to adds a discreet sexual vibe to male/female combinations. Jodhpurs curved to the waist and velvet vests were bodyhugging. The outerwear was plentiful, strong and mannish.

Long chiffon skirts and dresses reminded of Lauren’s favorite prairie-dresses, they were often mixed with long coats.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Every fashioncity has its darlings. Philips Lim is one of the darlings of New York. Not because he is so brilliant and original, but because he knows how to sell clothes. The Chinese American Phillip Lim has a major in business at California State University and that shows.

American fashion generally puts pragmatism ahead of pyrotechnics; Lim more than most. That can make his shows seem like a series of ticked boxes rather than an experience. Mohair? Got it. Céline-esque camel drenched minimalism? Check.   Those winter 2010 trends kept on coming. Jersey, fur trims, trouser suits, low-shine sequins, sheepskin-lined biker jackets, animal prints. Sometimes it makes you a bit grumpy because it is almost predictable.

After launching his label six years ago, Lim now sells in more than 400 stores around the world and it’s not hard to see why. In real life the clothes work just fine. Lim has a knack for combining cute with chic.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After a few sexy and dangerous looking collections  Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave their women more clothes to wear this fall. They layered her with staple pieces like swinging coats, cashmere sweaters and bubble-skirted dresses.

Of course the collection had some special details like the rubber printed cotton twill pants with black and white inkblots  These were cool, but the skirts that followed were better:  pleated or folded, in navy and green. Very girlish.

The designers also picked up on the season’s fur theme, but there were coats in alpaca too and dresses in black and white angora. The chic little  dresses that closed the show hit a high note.

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