Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York ss2012

Ralph Lauren took inspiration from the The Great Gatsby, the movie he designed the clothes for in 1974. When he designed the clothes it started a mini Jazz Age at that time and Lauren’s career took off. It seems the time is ripe for an updated version of this style, especially now Baz Luhrmann is busy with a remake starring Leonardo Dicaprio and Carey Mulligan.

Lauren loves the feminine/masculine mix and that shows. There were  wallpaper floral t dresses,  pastel silk pajama pants, and “vintaged” cashmere sweaters with fake moth holes. For accessories: raffia platform sandals, embroidered and fringed bags, and delicate scarves.  As for the masculine side:  pinstriped three-piece suits with cropped pants, shorts, full trousers and the leather Perfecto jacket. For the evening Lauren introduced silver flapper dresses and column gowns.

 

 

First View New York ss2012: Tribal

Urban tribes stride the catwalk. Each designer driven by personal inspirations and motivations. ‘Afriluxe’ states Michael Kors, a more minimal tribal turn for BCBG, Haiti influenced Donna Karan where Proenza Schouler designers followed their feel for crafts. Roomy tunics, slouchy shifts and rompy sweaters shape this decorative and laid back look. Brush stroke prints, dip-dyed patterns in a Haitian inspired colour palette; earthy shades and shots with burning orange, deep purple, golden ochre and sea green. Superior craftsmanship is shown in beaded patterns, raffia weaves and tie-dye, batik and ikat patterns. From precise and traditional folk interpretations to expressive, graphic and large-scale tribal twists.

This third ‘Stylespot’, analysing the New York catwalks, is one more proof of the power of print.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York ss2012

It was pure irony, the ss2012 collection of Proenza Schouler. But beautiful irony. Their inspirations included Fifties car interiors; Googie architecture, and the work of Morris Lapidus, the architect behind Miami’s  Fontainebleau hotel. Well, to put it simple: it was about questionable taste.

Key pieces were tight cropped sweaters and a cobalt A-line skirt in eel skin that formed one-half of one of the lineup’s best looks — but the collection was not so  serious and sophisticated affair. McCollough and Hernandez worked their references with originality, precision and craftsmanship. They were not afraid to use the so-called bad-taste elements, like tiger-print car interiors and the orange, green and gold palette from the Seventies.
What made the collection strong was the mix of pinup and sultry secretary. Bustier tops were paired with pencil skirts in neon and tropical prints. Yet there was a crafty undercurrent throughout. Raffia was woven into color-blocked knits and remarkable dresses that had cutout maillot tops and wide-weave cage skirts. For the finale, the designers embroidered  Hawaiian florals on tulle dresses with open backs and narrow skirts. Talking about modern retro.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York ss2012

Narciso Rodriguez’s inspiration came from artist Kim Joon, whose large-scale, swirl-heavy tattoos make for fascinating and ponderous art. Rodriguez used it in a refined way. The result was an impressive collection that looked different in the midst of this print-heavy season.

Rodriguez opened with a black top over white pants, simple but powerful. He then increased the intensity of geometry, stripes, bands and squares going this way and that. Hard lines and gentle curves, black, white, sand and lovely water-colors.  When he went for pattern, it was subtle.

Anna Sui Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

Antonio Lopez, an illustrator and photographer from the seventies, was Anna Sui’s big inspiration for spring/summer 2012. She got inspired by the way he introduced vintage fashion and disco music to Paris.

The disco was translated to strong rock n roll colors (pink and red), the vintage could be seen in some soft creamy shades. They were mixed with bold graphic prints in all kinds of colors.

Most of the designs were dresses, vintage looking ones in any kind of shape, mostly worn with a belt. The styling was over the top, very Anna Sui. The models wore turbans, sunglasses,chunky necklaces, headpieces, colorful socks and earrings, preferably all at once.

There was so much to see, there must have been a cool fashion piece for just about every woman in the room. And when styled a little more subtle each item on it’s own will immediately become very wearable.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

Michael Kors ‘afriluxe’ collection wasn’t the most flattering we’ve seen from him. His models wore oversized djellebas, scruffy skirts, shredded tops and gladiator (which often and on the worst fashion item list) sandals.

Yet he did manage to give that African theme his own touch of glamour. He came up with some cute animal prints, feather dresses and his accessories upgraded the collection. He designed leather bags with crocodile belts, waist&chestbelts (2 in 1) and some snakeskin bangles and chunky chokers.

His animal printed dresses looked the most wearable and will probably be the hit of this spring collection. Also Kors’ bathing suits with sophisticated leather details will make his clientèle look swell on the beach. Yet the rest of the collection failed to impress and we seriously wonder who’d wanna spend a thousand dollars on a scrappy patchwork sweater and skirt.

Tory Burch Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

It was Tory Burch’s first catwalkshow in more than seven years and she just opened a new flagship store in New York. Sales are doing well, so there were some reasons to be cheerful. For spring, Burch chose the twenties-era Deauville as her inspiration. The result was a good collection, refined, smart and neat and Burch didn’t fell in the trap of just copying that style. She used her own print, silhouette and colors. Her take on the iconic sailor stripe for example was changed into waves. And the dots were actually tiny little squares.

Vera Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

Vera Wang tried a different path with her ss2012 collection. More psychedelic colors and prints, different shapes and volumes, new colors. But the result was too much fairytale and less reality. Tiny little vests with detachable volants in cotton and oversize eyelet. Skirts made from sheer parachute silk that grazed the thighs in the front and trailed weightless in the back. Gowns with diamond-shape cutouts on the chest. Gauzy leggings. The effect looked a bit forced.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

That was a beautiful, colorful and romantic collection Rodarte sent out yesterday. Part Sleeping Beauty part Vincent van Gogh. The artists’ color palette and paintings with sunflowers, cherryblossoms and starry night inspired the Rodarte sisters. They explained to the press that they fell for the greens and purples of the 1959 animated Disney classic Sleeping Beauty, and asked themselves who else uses colors like that. They found their answer in the Dutch postimpressionist painter. It was all the more unexpected for the fact that those Van Gogh prints can turn out into something kitchy.

The Mulleavy sisters have flirted with kitsch before, but here the effect was often hypnotic. The clothes were a mesmerizing concoction of color, construction and fantastical gowns. No matter how voluminous or seemingly simple, every look was boned for precise fit and structure.

Van Gogh’s colors are powerful, and not just his purples and greens, but also the blues and yellows. But the fifties prom dress silhouettes—nipped at the waist, with focus at the shoulders and the flaring hems—seemed so resolutely in the past. Young women might like it and wear it, but will grown up women pay more than 4000 for a dress like that? Yet there was also plenty of downright approachable designs — tapered, cropped, pants; tiered georgette skirts and fantastic color-blocked hand-knit cable sweaters.

Theyskens’ Theory Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

The models at the Theyskens’ Theory show one by one looked kinda depressed. The showed absolutely no expression and made the show feel sort of lifeless. Truly there wasn’t really any need for that. The collection full of straight up streetstyle looks was fun.

Olivier Theyskens came up with jeans that were both high waisted and slouchy, held in place by a small belt. He designed shorts and sleeveless jackets, netted tops, jumpsuits, leather parkas, chainmail vests and cobweb dresses.

But the pieces that will most likely become a hit were some leather pants with holographic shine to them. Styled with neutral items like a white blouse or a black sweater these eye-catchers become very wearable. So we guess this is not the last we’ve seen of them.

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