Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

The fall-collection of Bottega Veneta exuded in precision and discipline, with lean silhouettes and narrow fit. There were tailored jackets and skirt suits cut straight. It was just simple, chic elegance in black, navy and maroon. Fabrics were rich and decorations modest, a big brooch, pendants and earrings. Controlled, but not forced.

The Best of Raf Simons for Jil Sander: 2006 – 2011

Designers come and go. Some stay longer than you expected. Some are more succesful than the other. Raf Simons surely set things in motion when he started working for Jil Sander. Looking at all the collections he designed for the house, you can see his confidence growing by the season. He took the time to develop his signature and blend it with the heritage of the house. The cut of the clothes, the silhouettes, the fabrics, the colors. For the first time in a long period the Jil Sander show was something to look forward to.

The last few seasons Simons experimented with couture-shapes and see what it brought us. Other designers got inspired and followed. The same happened with his color-blocking, the longer skirts, the stripes and the play with transparency. We’ve tried to find the best of Raf Simons for Jil Sander, and we realize there is so much more to show you.

Thankfully Raf Simons is not leaving the fashion-stage, we will see much more of him in the future. Maybe at Dior, but definitely at his own menswear-label. To be continued.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

The models in the Versace show looked dangerous. Or, like many fashion-editors said: like actress Rooney Mara in her performance as the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.  The clothes were all gothic drama, dark and underground. There was no sparkle of sunny glamour.
The show opened with two black velvet dresses — one covered up, one bare — both embroidered with leather Byzantine crosses. The crosses appeard small and big, in the middle of a corset or at a breastplate. There wer some colorful prints, letters that spelled V E R S A C E. It looked a bit cheap.
More Versace were the chainmail dresses and open metal mesh – it gave the models an air of savage crusaders.

 

CNC Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

In the show notes designer Ennio Capasa of CnC Costume Nationel explained his collection was about  ‘an imaginative woman in a virtual metropolis’ who is ‘post-punk, post-chic but above all technological’. Like the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo? It’s clear that this type of tough girl is inspiring more designers, if not the colthes it’s the beauty of Rooney Mara (her dark, short hair and black make-up). Fabrics were extra shiny, like a slick patent leather. Capasa used it for robust outerwear in boxy shapes with diagonal zippers. The result was futuristic and a bit aggressive.

Just Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

He might be 71 years of age, Roberto Cavalli still knows how the youngsters love to party. Extremely loud (some front row ladies were spotted with their hands on their ears) and super sexy, that is.

Cavalli took his party back to the sixties  as he presented long sleeved, drop waisted dresses, mostly in black and white. His signature animal prints were mixed up with typical sixties prints, like a leopard print slowly evolving in a hounds tooth version.

The silhouette and fit of the dresses might have been modest, Cavalli still gave the designs his sexiness by opting for airy fabrics and sequined details. Besides, he gave his pumps a pink sole, for extra sex appeal and… to party on till early morning.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

At Etro a traditional autumn palette set the tone of a collection full of outerwear and gentle country-life clothes plus lots of knits. Jackets and coats were belted and sometimes topped with  astrakhan capelets. Special details were leather peplum belts, men’s-inspired swaggers, sheer underpinnings and a some body-conscious silhouettes.
Of course there was the famous paisley-pattern, modern and sometimes exploding.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Highly accessorized, lots of black and white and uniform inspired; that’s how you could describe the last couple of Moschino collections and today’s version was no exception.

Models wore double breasted jackets and short playful dresses. Looks came in black, white, red, yellow and blue, some stripes and checks added to the mix.

There was an awful lot of leg at sight for a winter collection.Yet Jardini (sort of) made up for that by placing hats and ostrich feather helmets on the models’ heads. Together with the chunky earrings, huge bows and multi-pocket hip bags they made up for the highly accessorized part of the brand’s signature.

It was a Moschino show like you would expect it to be. Though with the ski / motor pants, dropped waists, quilted coats and shiny capes we spotted some pleasant new season surprises as well.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Strength and the power of beauty, those seemed to be the idea s behind the Prada fall 2012 collection. The clothes were elegant, though a bit heavy sometimes, and contained all the classic elements Prada’s known for: the black, the appliqued stones, the suit, the awkward colors and vintage prints. New was the layered silhouette, that sometimes reminded of the way modern Muslim-women dress. The tailoring emphasized the high waist and long line as well as pants. Black dominated, followed by mustard, blue, orange and brown/pink. There were belted jackets, coats, tunics and dresses topping pants which were cut above the ankles.

Shoes were (platform) high, with a round toe and decorated. Bags started out big, but in the end  the became so small they could only carry an iPhone.

 

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Today’s Fendi show seemed to be about ‘more is more’. Not in an Anna dello Russo way though. No, instead of bold, printed, over-accessorised looks Karl presented rich winter looks in which he not only played with structure and texture but also with color.

His creations had a patchwork look to them, being made of many different materials, ranging from fur to silk and from leather to lace. Therefore every single look was ‘cut’ into several pieces. Something those tall slim models can work with, yet seems more challenging for the everyday woman.

Due to the rich styled looks we hardly knew where to focus on. Those partly pleated, partly fur skirts definitely caught our eyes. The beautifully shaped peplums/belts deserved some of our attention too. And then, of course, there were the coats, in fur (white, colored, degrade – Hello Sesame Street), with pointed shoulders and made out of two separate (one long, one short) pieces.

With those heavy materials and a color palette ranging from olive green to burgundy the collection definitely was winter proof. Yet for ‘normal’ woman to be able to pull some of these looks off it could have been slightly more fool proof too.

 

Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

 

The Blugirl show felt as if we stepped into Anna Molinari’s very own doll house. In her colorful richly accessorized looks her models portrayed cuteness to the max.

First we met with her college girls, dressed red, blue and green in argyle sweaters and toggle coats. Then Anna introduced her pastel pretties, in fur light colored looks, topped off by pastel shades earmuffs. The third group of models were Blugirl’s Snowbunnies in fully white and off white outfits which had a shiny detail here and there. And models in party dresses (black from head to toe) closed the show.

The collection was girly, young and great fun to watch. Styled in a more subtle way some of those unique items will be pretty damn wearable too.

 

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