Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

It was the first time Roberto Cavalli’s son Daniele Cavalli had some influence on the menswear-collection. His father asked him to add some youthful juice to the line. He presented an almost clean collection, where blue-tones and white played a central role plus some bold colors. The show was a romantic take on Riviera summers with influences from all over the world. Instead of playboys in flirty clothes came men dressed smart casual in natty blazers, suits in vivid fuchsia, yellow or purple/blue, and jackets with inserts of python.It seemed the young designer wanted to do a very good job, not too cool and hip.

And somehow it worked out fine, to be honest: it was better than all the rock ‘ roll, Jim Morrison meets Mick Jagger inspired Cavalli-collections we’ve seen in the past seasons. Although it lacked a bit of irony.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Shorts, that’s exactly men need in steamy hot Milan right now. Eehm, in black? Well, why not. Since everybody visting Milan is wearing the bold colors of this summer why not try them in black? Raf Simons started the colorblocking trend at Jil Sander, so he’ll be the first to end it. Or to offer something completely different. And that’s what he did this afternoon with his Jil Sander ss2012 collection.

To be honest, all that black soothes the eye. And Simons didn’t give up on color yet, he just added fragments or fragmented colors to the black. In cotton knits, printed stiff T-shirts, the petrol-colored jackets and with the snake-skin pouches attached as a small life-vest to the models’ body. It seemed leather accessories were a big, loud message too.

Although all the black was a surprise,  the collection didn’t have the impact his eye-popping colors had a year ago. Look around you and see what it did to the streets. And the big wave still has to come. Let’s take it positive: black matches beautifully with bright orange, yellow and pink. Black is still the new black, but differently.

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

It has been a while since Burberry Prorsum designer Christopher Bailey presented such a strong collection. Less commercial and predictable, more sensitive and daring regarding the fabrics, ethnic theme, colors and prints. Of course it had this typical British/Bailey  details like the small pant with straight, narrow legs, the fitted jackets, pimped up brogues, the old fashioned cardigans and of course a large variety of coats. Those coats where the main part of the collection, but the accents made the difference: the collars in multi-colored patterns or fluffy fur. Funny and delightful were the (golf)shoes with thick cork-soles and bright colorful details, the knitted sweaters, the shirts and pants in African inspired patterns (the ones Mandela likes) or ikats and the colors which moved between navy-blue to mustard, yellow, burnt orange and beige.

It sure will let the sun come out on a rainy day.

Watch the show here

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

 

Today at Dolce & Gabbana it was all about the net and the nets. Perforated and netted items were seen throughout the whole collection. A collection which started off quite dark (black and burgundy), but became lighter (white and light grey) towards the end.

In a press conference video Domenico and Stefano did something designers rarely do; they introduced there favorite models. Paolo Anchisi, Travis Bland, Adam Senn, Tim Ruger and Guy Robinson. Those guys wore the showpieces of new summer collection. A cotton jumpsuit, a netted leather T-shirt, a perforated leather jacket and a lightweight collarless jacket. After that some details were highlighted, like small pockets, 1 cm stitching and washed satin. Just to give you an idea of the collection.

Dolce & Gabbana showed some of their famous slick evening looks and gave the collection a sporty vibe by adding the netted (tanktops, sweaters, shorts, pants) garments and jumpsuits. The loose netted fabric might not be for everyone, but we’re just happy the designers let the models wear something underneath it…

Check out all our pictures above and the press conference video below.

Ermenegildo Zegna Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

What better way to start the Milan Fashion Week than with Ermenegildo Zegna. At it’s Milan based headquarters the fresh fashion crowd gathered for the presentation of Zegna’s new spring/summer collection.

The collection had a very airy vibe to it. Pale shades, light fabrics and smooth styling. Many of Zegna’s boys were dressed impeccably from head to toe; tight linen jacket, slightly cropped linen pants, a nice shirt, a small tie, a light colored pair of shoes and an impressive man-bag to top it off.

Some of the more relaxed looks contained shorts (right above the knee), relaxed sweaters, comfy leather flip flops and shiny parka’s all in faded shades of grey, sand, beige, lavender, taupe, bole and green.

The sportive jackets (one with a hood, the other with lots of pockets) and one knitted cardigan gave the collection a nice twist. The subtle two-tones on a suede jacket and a shirt fit the collection just fine. And the backpacks, classic sunnies, and chic scarfs were the perfect accessories.

There were no shocking surprises in the show, but Zegna did what so many men love about the brand; it presented cool, modern, comfortable looks. Clothes in which you can seal a major business deal as well as have some great family lunch.

 

 

Round Up Milan FW2011

All lovely femininity and seduction is what we perceived past week in Milan. This is definitely part of the Milan signature. Here are some linking influences to round up Milan: a shared sense of nostalgia, amazing fabrics (it’s all in the mix) and exiting colour schemes.

Gucci and Prada put a big mark on this Milan season. They are the runners up in the 5 influences we like to quote.

SIXTIES Prada moved us towards the 60s and 70s, some literary references like dropped waists with big, low-slung belts and chunky buttons. But most of all innovative and refreshing.

GLAM: Gucci reinforces the 20’s, 30’s feel, which was already strong in NY, and this was done masterful in an amazing mix of saturated shades, topped with lush fur and loads of feminine flair.

SOFT COLOUR: a statement made by Missoni, new hues which will surely be of influence in the near fashion future.

MASCULINE/FEMININE: Ferragamo played the masculine against the feminine wonderfully and we’ve seen more of these androgynous twists at Dolce & Gabana, Dsquared² and Sportmax.

SHINE: when it came to all the shiny surface effects, another BIG issue, Etro, the master of print, was one of the many designers who showed these artfully.

One last remark! Long lengths, extremely long, but still (we didn’t count) we’re sure Milan showed more knee then NY. We guess since most designers are referencing towards a more recent era.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

First View Milan FW2011: More Lace

There’s more lace to come from Milan! We spotted it in New York and London and got it confirmed now in Milan. Lace is a red thread linking collections, looks and styles.From cobwebby, embroidered, chunky to featherweight. Plasticized, coated, printed and sequined. From antique to high tech and modernistic.

In Milan, it was most of all used the authentic way. Pretty and lady like, refined Chantilly lace.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan FW2011: Soft Color

The soft colors that popped up in Milan are definitely an opening towards a new spirit.

A fresh palette launched by Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Etro. Pale precious pastels. Not just soft in shades, also dimensional peach-touch fabrics with lots of knots, curls and pile. Candy coloured yet not that sweet, the unusual fabrics and wild combinations give this look a daring twist that makes us curious to see more of it next season.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Arrivederci Milano!

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2011 Day 6

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

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