Versace Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Well, that was quite a flashback at Versace yesterday! The collection and models Donatella sent out reminded us of those good old Versace days with beautiful stallions, gladiator-boxer types with blonde Adonis hair and muscles. The show kicked off with a parade of shorts and briefs from the house’s new swimwear and underwear collection. O la la!
The Versace man is not afraid of a bit excess, he wears macho medallion jewelry and isn’t shy of flashy fabrics. He is part Rocky, part Elvis and part Mr. T. The collection included shiny double-breasted suits with metallic shirts and ties; floral denim; sweet pastels  from Miami; broderie anglaise effects on jackets and shirts, and sleeveless jackets with superhero shoulders. This was masculinity and camp to the max.

Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana continued their hymn to Italy. This time they time-traveled to Sicily for a nostalgic Fifties spring collection. Around 70 boys and men where gathered  from all over the island and they resembled characters from an old movie as they sped down the runway to a frenetic pace set by a live folk band.
The message was authenticity and the show focused  on vintage clothes. Vacation-friendly sportswear,  striped vests and T-shirts with a rustic hand-painted look, souvenir prints, high-waist shorts.
Shirts with flat, open collars and unconstructed suits with voluminous pleated pants came straight from a Sicilian grandfather’s wardrobe.

Burberry Prorsum Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Christopher Bailey sent out a rich, chic and sophisticated collection yesterday, with focus at shiny fabriucs and sartorial finish. The show opened with metallic silk in   purple, blue, green, fuchsia, and orange. Bailey worked his metallics into shirts, trenches and onto the collars of cabans and car coats. Another important part of the collection were  bubble-shaped, multi-toned bomber jackets. On the models’ feet dark socks and flashy metallic sandals.
The color palette was inspired by one of Bailey’s favorite artists — David Hockney — while the geometric prints found their origins at the Bloomsbury Group. To temper the vivid colored metallics, Baily came up with slim-fitting and sober suits, in deep navy seersucker or cotton.   Bailey often layered the shiny with the matte, or put a dark, slim-fitting jacket over a long, loose printed top.

Costume National Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2013

Utilitarian style dominated  at Costume National. Sticking to the brand’s signature urban and punk vibe, Ennio Capasa played with volumes and layers resulting into a young and sophisticated collection.
The sharp look of a sleeveless leather safari jacket was softened by fluid baggy pants. There were also  deconstructed tailored suits with loose shoulders.

Summer in the City: H&M at A’dam Open Air

Follow H&M at Amsterdam Open Air Festival 2012 where visitors were styled by H&M’s style advisors in fantastic 50’s outfits from the ‘H&M for water’ collection and photographed against a 50’s backdrop. The collection will be available from May 31st 2012. Of all sales from this collection 25 % will be donated to WaterAid which helps to provide clean water and sanitation to some of the world’s poorest areas.

Summertrend 2012: In Your Finest PJ’s

Ever felt like skipping the fuss of getting dressed and just going out in your nightwear? Than we’ve got good news for you, ’cause hitting the streets in your finest PJ’s in the latest fashion trend. Brands like Stella McCartney and Jil Sander showed the coolest pajama’s by combining sloughy tops with lean trousers. Also, Jonathan Saunders and Antonio Marras joined in on the trend as they mixed loose fitting silky printed blouses and pants together.

Small polka dots, checks and paisley prints definitely are the way to go with this new summer look. Color-wise it seems best to opt for old-school pajama-worthy shades like gray, light blue and deep blue. Stella mixed hers with flat flip flops, yet as Jil Sander proved a chunky heel can be pretty chic with this look as well. Just don’t over-accessorize this nighttime ensemble. In fact, as shown on the runway this look doesn’t need any extras at all!

Let’s hope this ‘Bedtime Chic’ look stays around a little longer, ’cause looking on trend was never this easy.

Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It’s been a while since Miucca Prada wove a common thread between her two lines, Miu Miu and Prada. But pantsuits are the only thing exciting to her after so many years of skirts and dresses, she explained to the press. And her pantsuits are still not ordinary. The Miu Miu clothes looked mannish and leisurely in a retro way. Jackets and matching ankle-length pants had roomy cuts, and were worn with buttoned-up blouses, scarves and ruffled, wide ties, all done in clashing patterns and color combinations.

Elie Saab Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

With his collection Urban Elegance designer Elie Saab brought Paris Fashion Week to a closure. Models sporting blunt bangs indeed looked more urban than we’re used to from the designer wearing asphalt shaded skirts and peplum tops. Fur coats were tossed over sexy dresses. High waisted black pants and sheer blouses formed the chicest combinations as tight dresses beautifully accentuated all that’s feminine. We could picture almost every outfit in a classy business meeting, a corporate presentation or a company’s cocktail. But of course it wasn’t all business and it wouldn’t be a complete Elie Saab collection without a stunning finale of floor sweeping Oscar-worthy gowns. They came in sparkling green, sequined silver and embellished gold. They had low V-necks and high slits, but stayed classy, A-list classy that is.

 

 

 

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Hard & Slick

One more spot on power and hard-edge construction. Just to express the importance of this influence. Not to be pampered and cuddled in crisis. Women stand up and seem ready to fight. That is at least what designers suggest. Ready to march the battlefields. Dominatrix and fetishist and at the same time precious, upscale, ultra feminine and glamorous. From wasp-waisted x-shapes to rounded cape like sculptural silhouettes. Satin sheen, polished high gloss as well as slick. In leather, lacquer, chain mail and bonded satins. Metal, fur and rubber details. Creating looks with an almost sacral seriousness. Strict and severe and addressing the archetypal human need for religion as Gareth Pugh stated.

Monumental shaping is perfectly executed by Yves Saint Laurent, heavenly tailored by Viktor & Rolf, futuristic textured by Laurent, and it is hard to figure out if the look of Givenchy is monastic or vampire. It is an expression of utmost luxury.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

All aboard for the 10 o’clock LV train!

If you thought a Louis Vuitton show couldn’t get better after last seasons merry go round, you’re mistaken. This morning Marc Jacobs topped that performance off by sending out an enormous train on his Paris catwalk. By doing so he made sure – combined with yesterday’s Chanel crystals– Paris Fashion Week (and actually a whole fashion season) ended quite spectacular.

Jacobs even stepped away from his no celebs policy and invited stars like Catherine Deneuve and Sarah Jessica Parker to watch his show, held in a train station.

As the smoke of the train dissapeared elegant women accompanied by porters who carried their many bags stepped out of the Louis Vuitton train, which seemed to come straight from another era. They wore woolen a-line coats over skirts, over pants. The new type or layering already presented to us at Chanel yesterday. They looked extremely tall (thanks to a little help from Stephen Jones). The new silhouette made them look extra feminine. And shiny embroideries combined with kaleidoscopic applications turned otherwise simple outfits into jaw dropping pieces.

It was not the most modern collection, but it had the right kind of classic touch for todays Louis Vuitton women. And just in case after this show you haven’t had enough yet of the French fashion brand you can visit the exhibition Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs (opening tonight) and dig a little further into the Louis Vuitton history.

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