Streetfashion Milan FW2010 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

The catwalk at the Gianfranco Ferré show had the shape of an H, so the audience was divided in two. The enthusiastic people seemed to be sitting on the right side. They applauded for several looks, while the left side just sat there quietly.

The looks that gained the most applause were a shiny gold coat worn by Natasha Poly and a long evening gown with a low back in the same shade. We loved a camel colored skirt worn with a beige top (both with a lot of texture) and a white pair of high waisted pants combined with a white top (both with visible pleats).

Some of Aquilano and Rimondi’s coats were pretty strong as well. They came in black, gray and beige and had lots of leather and fur accents. They were worn on top of some (knee-length) skirts and thanks to the waist belts they emphasized the models’ slim silhouettes beautifully.

The whole collection was, as the designers put it themselves,  very modern, dynamic and super feminine.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

Although Alberta Ferretti had to design a winter collection her dresses were just as airy as they were last summer. Alberta used a lot of see through material and shiny silk-chiffon. She introduced some pleated designs and brought back the nudes from her summer collection. Instead of the flowers from last season the dresses now got crystal embellishments, gracefully put around the neckline and on the shoulder.

We know the dresses looked wonderful, but there is no way women are going to wear these ‘summery’ dresses in their daily life next winter. For a special party or a chic event, on the other hand, the dresses and ankle boots will be perfect. Especially the evening dresses looked very delicate. Some of them had transparent sleeves, but you had to take a close look to even see the fabric.

Apart from the frilly dresses there were fur coats that actually seemed appropriate for winter. They came in cream, blue, gray and black. Their waistbands and pleating at the back made them look extra elegant.

Commercially this was a smart collection. The women buying the new Alberta Ferretti dresses will need to buy one of the designer’s fur coats as well to keep themselves warm throughout the winter. Still it seems like their legs will be cold next year.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

Karl Lagerfeld dared to combine two big fall trends in his Fendi collection: fur and patchwork. His patchwork fur coats came by in all shapes, sizes and colors. Yet none of those coats convinced us that the combination of fur and patchwork will become a huge hit. Especially not the first one, in white, gray and black. It looked like a mix of a panda- and a dolphin suit and didn’t do anything for the model’s body. Other patchworks in hues of beige, camel and brown were better, but never stunning. It just seemed very unnatural to combine so many different types of fur in one design.

Front row guest Rachel  Zoe must have loved the show, though. Karl introduced some waistcoats in fur as well. And we’ve seen Rachel Zoe in one of those quite often…

Karl’s waistcoats were worn on top of long, loose-fitting skirts and blouses with wide sleeves. Brown waist belts finished the looks. A beige coat with matching dress, made from a fabric that resembled an enlarged corduroy, caught our attention. And the color pallet of green, brown and mustard yellow appeared to be lovely.

Towards the end of the show many black dresses were shown. In these dresses lots of texture, as well as some see-through fabric could be seen.  The dresses were transparent in all the right places and had just the perfect length. They looked elegant and feminine and were sexy enough to make some of the men at that cocktail party look twice.

Streetfashion Milan FW2010 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan.

Just Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

At today’s presentation of the Just Cavalli winter collection it was clear this line is aimed at young customers. Primary colors like blue, red and yellow were visible in almost every look. They were there in some leopard printed house pants and on a few crazy printed leggings. Even the fur on some coats came in those colors. Besides, some of the skirts and dresses were pretty short, teenage short you might say.

Fortunately Roberto Cavalli was able to add some sophistication to his collection as well. He designed some romantic, transparent blouses with ruffles on the neckline and on the sleeves. Yet we didn’t really get the sort of bib he added on top of those blouses. It had it’s own ruffles and details and seemed to be tied at the models’ backs.

The crazy mixing continued when we saw wide belts, matched with short skirts and small jackets with pointy shoulders and fur collars, all in a different print.

By adding some tartan prints, multiple fans, necklaces with huge pendants and several patchwork sweaters Roberto Cavalli proved he dares to experiment. Though we admire his courage we advice to combine his items with more basics.

Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

The Blugirl Fashion Show started off fresh and kind of angelic as the first few models appeared dressed in ivory (cream) shades from head to toe. Yet through the angelic image the Italian spirit of the brand was very clear as well. Models in animal printed dresses with matching gloves and headbands reminded us of that. Plus: the heavy use of embellishments like studs, crystals and sequins looked perfect for any Italian (Blu)girl.

Since knitwear was the starting point for the collection the clothes had a lot of texture. In one look you could have a heavy woolen coat with a floral patterned skirt combined with a legging in another graphic design.

We thought some of the chunky knits resembled fur, but according to the show notes they were even meant to replace fur. This ‘fake fur’ could be seen on many of the sleeves of the woolen coats.

After the animal prints the cream shades were mixed with dresses in gold lamé and clothes full of silver sequins. Then the collection turned a little darker. First gray, later on black.

We saw black knitwear combined with some sequined outfits. It also formed a nice combination with some black see-through lace. Some of the gray/black dresses, jackets and leggings were dip dyed.

All models wore multiple necklaces and two elastic bands, one at the beginning of their ponytail and one halfway. Some girls wore a sequined headband.

After all the black, the cream shade popped up one more time for the final, ‘bridal’ look. The last model wore a cream lace dress and a matching fur coat. On her head she had a tiara, in her hands she held a bouquet. It seemed like the perfect ending of a cohesive, textured, feminine and very Italian Blugirl collection.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

For the Calvin Klein fashion show young and old models were united. Doutzen Kroes was in the audience and watched topmodels from the 80’s/90’s, Kirsten McMenamy (1966) and Stella Tennant (1970), strolling down the runway. They walked in the show right next to beginning models such as Karlie Kloss (1992) and Dutch model Gwen Loos (1993).

All girls had the androgynous look (which made McMenamy and Tennant so famous) going on: their hair was combed backwards and their clothes were kind of stiff.

It was clear Francisco Costa let his clothes speak for themselves. He didn’t send anything on the runway that could distract you from that. So, no accessories, no bags, no special make-up, no crazy poses, just Calvin Klein fashion like we know it.

The designer came up with a few non-waisted woollen coats. Their shoulders were rounded and the sleeves were wide. Those coats were shown in black, brown and white. And apart from a blue and a lilac colored dress all designs came in those neutral shades.

Costa’s streamlined shift dresses and coats all ended just above the knee. Besides, his clothes were all pretty loose fitting so the collection did lack some sex appeal. The designer did use some shiny black and white (almost silver) silk for his pants, blouses and dresses. He also added a few sparkles on the last designs of his collection but it didn’t make a lot of difference.

Two good things about the clothes are (1) in a room full of people they won’t attract all the attention towards you and (2) you are never showing too much skin when you’re wearing them. Yet you’d have to have a strong, expressive personality to make some of the looks work.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After his ode to the American workers during the Depression, Ralph Lauren decided to take a more romantic road to fashion. The collection looked almost vintage Ralph Lauren, with its dark Edwardian touch, lots of velvet, black, burgundy and flowerprints.This is a style we know so well and which made him famous.

Ralph Lauren’s skill is to make the predictable look fresh. But he also to adds a discreet sexual vibe to male/female combinations. Jodhpurs curved to the waist and velvet vests were bodyhugging. The outerwear was plentiful, strong and mannish.

Long chiffon skirts and dresses reminded of Lauren’s favorite prairie-dresses, they were often mixed with long coats.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Every fashioncity has its darlings. Philips Lim is one of the darlings of New York. Not because he is so brilliant and original, but because he knows how to sell clothes. The Chinese American Phillip Lim has a major in business at California State University and that shows.

American fashion generally puts pragmatism ahead of pyrotechnics; Lim more than most. That can make his shows seem like a series of ticked boxes rather than an experience. Mohair? Got it. Céline-esque camel drenched minimalism? Check.   Those winter 2010 trends kept on coming. Jersey, fur trims, trouser suits, low-shine sequins, sheepskin-lined biker jackets, animal prints. Sometimes it makes you a bit grumpy because it is almost predictable.

After launching his label six years ago, Lim now sells in more than 400 stores around the world and it’s not hard to see why. In real life the clothes work just fine. Lim has a knack for combining cute with chic.

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