Backstage atmosphere ss2010
November 19, 2009 by Jetty
Filed under Backstage, Featured Items, Paris
We will have our backstage-material online soon. It’s always a pleasure to flip through those images, because the give a totally different view of the collections, models and sometimes designers. We’ll be back with more asap!
Trends ss2010: fantastic plastic
How can you protect yourself from the rain and still look sexy?
Zac Posen, Sonia Rykiel, Frankie Morello, D Squared and others gave us the answer: you just wear a transparent plastic raincoat. In this way you’re still showing the great outfit you’re wearing underneath and your silhouette stays visible too.
For next spring transparent plastic was used by several different designers. Isn’t it typical that at least four designers came up with a see-through raincoat, independently of each other? At all four shows these raincoats also popped up out of nowhere and didn’t really connect to the rest of the clothes in the collections.
But the raincoat wasn’t the only transparent plastic item; there were bags and shoes as well, for example at Prada. D Squared and Charles Anastase both had transparent bags too.
Michael Kors used the plastic for his bathing suits and bracelets. Out of everything we saw the most fantastic plastic was made by Frankie Morello. He came up with a chique Chanel-looking plastic jacket, which had collar and cuffs made out of fabric.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: fashionably exposed
Together with the nudes there’s a a lot of semi-nudity for next summer-season too.
Many designers worked with sheer and airy fabrics. Through these light fabrics the models’ skins were visible most of the time. At Giambattista Valli, YSL, Michael Kors, Sonia Rykiel and House of Holland the models’ breasts could clearly be seen through their designs.
Almost every piece of clothing came by in a transparent version. Roberto Cavalli even designed a few see-through pants. Valentino’s shiny, ruffled and transparent materials were made into super sexy party dresses. And Donnatella Versace created a few sheer evening gowns in pastel shades.
The sheer fabrics were often layered or draped. Viktor & Rolf used multiple transparent layers, becoming non-transparent by this application. Riccardo Tisci beautifully draped his sheer fabrics for Givenchy.
Apart from the delicate ultra-thin fabrics we could see some body-exposing nettings (Jil Sander, Sonia Rykiel, Just Cavalli) as well.
So, for next season don’t be afraid to show some skin. And if you are, just follow the example of Viktor & Rolf and wear lots of layers.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: goddess glamour
Next season shoulders are getting some extra attention in several different ways. We’ve seen shoulderpads, shoulder cut-outs, adorned shoulders and one-shoulder dresses.
Many designers gave their own interpretation to the one-shoulder dress. Most often they put all their creativity in the dress’s one shoulder. They gave that one shoulder lots of layers, ruffles and draping so it really stood out and made up for the missing one.
During the Iceberg fashion-show shoulders were emphasized in many ways. The colorful one-shoulder dresses seemed to be the highlight of the show. At Lanvin the shoulders got a mix of ruffles and layers.
Sonia Rykiel showed a one-shoulder dress with bows all the way to the top.The shoulder on one of Viktor & Rolf’s designs (made out of hundreds of layers of tulle) reached as high as the model’s head.
Most one-shoulder designs looked sexy, summery and a bit Roman/Greek.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: new basics
You could consider a pair of jeans and a white t-shirt as everlasting basics. However, even basics change a little bit every year.
A few seasons ago some slim fit pants were indispensable. For next summer a pair of wide-legged beige pants, a straightforward skirt, a loose-fitting jacket and a long cardigan are the season’s must haves. We saw many of these items at Stella McCartney’s show.
What’s so great about these clothes? You can easily mix them with the rest of your wardrobe. Especially the beige pants can go well with almost every color. The jackets and cardigans can be worn in a masculine way but with a waistbelt they will look very ladylike. We could see this combination in many shows.
The MaxMara, Chloé and Tommy Hilfiger fashion shows all had some great basics with which you can make endless variations.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: black & white
Although you might expect bright colors for the summer-season, many designers chose black and white as their main colors. There were lots of outfits in full black or white, but also good combinations as well.
Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and the two Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe didn’t use any color in their shows at all. Their designs were all in black, white and some hues of grey. Rick Owens’ designs stood out because they were very pointy. Watanabe’s clothes had black and white checks that matched with the checked shoes.
Givenchy showed some black and white in his renewing geometricaly shaped outfits. Jill Stuart made a few pairs of extraordinary black and white leggings. At the Moschino fashion show modern white blouses were mixed with black bows.
(Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: step by step
For some models walking the runway was a tough job in the past fashion weeks. Of course the shoes were to blame. Not only were they high as ever, they also had the craziest shapes. They seemd somewhat inspired by clogs and that made them look rather clumsy. The most outstanding examples of this ‘clog-shoe’ were those of Alexander McQueen. He showed some great fashion forward ones, which were no less than twelve inches high. With reptile prints they looked futuristic and animalistic at the same time. Passing by to the beat of Lady Gaga’s new song they indeed looked rather Gaga to us. Yet they might become a huge hit. At least McQueen wasn’t the only designer with clog-shoes in his show. Celine, Dior, DSquared, Givenchy, Bottega Veneta and Ferré showed some clog-variations as well. And not to forget Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Their Swedish clog-like shoes will probably become the most copied of all next spring. (Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: shoulders up!
A few seasons on the runway shoulderpads now definitely hit the stores. While the crowd is taking over this trend, great designers are exaggerating their focus on shoulders and having fun with it. Their pointy or extremely round shoulders are lifted, thickened, adorned and made visible through transparent fabrics. At Balmain’s show the shoulders were still the main aspect of the collection. For 2010 Christophe Decarnin added some fringes on his military jackets for Balmain. The shoulders at the Comme des Garcons show were purposely put in all the wrong places (at the models’ breasts or backs). The brand thus made fun of the whole shoulderpad-trend. The actual shoulderpads were visible through the sheer designs of Jean Paul Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf and Sonia Rykiel. What type of shoulder will they come up with next season? (Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: Eyecatching sportswear
Next spring will be great fun for the sporty types. A number of brands introduced some remarkable sportswear. Eyecatching were the pieces Asish showed during London Fashion Week. Most of the sportswear he came up with was sequined from the bottom to the top. What a great way to distract your opponents at the footballfield! The sequins formed the image of a football and that of Mona Lisa. The Nike slogan ‘Just do it’ also appeared in sequins. At the fashion show for Hermès the runway was changed into a tenniscourt. The models wore classic sportswear in blue or red with white lines. Those lines seemed to be the new element in sportswear since Marc Jacobs, Bottega Veneta and Lacoste used them too. Alexander Wang showed some great (‘timeless’, as he calls it himself) sportswear. His grey sweater with brown suede shoulders looked refreshing. Most designers completed their looks with a sporty headband or a cap. Playing sports was never this much fun! (Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: denim never goes out of style
Jeans are one of the few things in fashion that never go out of style. On the contrary other denim outfits seem to come and go every few years. For the coming season several brands carefully introduced a few denim designs. We saw denim blouses, skirts and dungarees. At Jean Paul Gaultier streetwise models wore darkblue denim overalls. The designs were immediately recognizable as JPG’s because of the cone-bra details he added. Dolce & Gabbana used denim in both their collections. At the D&G western inspired show denim was mixed with white, beige or brown in almost every look. Pieces of lace or leather were stitched at the designs. For her first collection for Twenty8Twelve Sienna Miller also created some denim blouses and tough-looking sleeveless denim motorjackets with frayed ends. Hannah MacGibbon designed exactly one denim look for Chloé. It didn’t match any of the other outfits from the show, but she came up with it at the right time. (Tess van Daelen)
