D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Oh life is good and full of fun in the world of the D&G man. Despite it’s highly commercial level and copy & paste of all American logo’s and comics it was a breath of fresh air. Fashion has to be fun too, no? Especially after the dark years that are behind us now and the serious search of other labels for a new look and a new dresscode.

D&G let the sunshine in with their colorful, low crotch, small legged pants, copy/paste T-shirts with the Coca Cola logo and Disney-comics and preppy jackets and shirts. It seemed the American Fifties college-nerd inspired the designers for this mix and match of checks, prints, fits and proportions. It looked fresh and new thanks to the new proportions, shrunken wool knitwear, corduroy and padded nylon.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The metropolitan dandy was Frida Giannini’s muse for the fall 2011 Gucci menswear-collection. And how vain this dandy is, in his 70’s inspired impeccable suit in all tones of brown & grays worn with a purple or blue shirt and matching tie, polished shoes, ostrich-leather coat and slick hair. He even has his own clutch now, big enough to protect his daily newspaper ! (how old fashioned with the iPad in town).

The Gucci-man is still a playboy and will probably never ever become a dull housefather. Even during the weekend he looks like’s been studying every part of his outfit carefully. From the mohair sweater to the big, sheepskin coat and ribcord hunting-jacket. And please let him be, because besides the new intellectual in his HD-colored clothes we also need the naughty handsome playboy in his sensual, slick suit to balance it all out and keep us women dreaming.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Designers are looking for new proportions and silhouettes, besides the HD-color, that’s the main message in Milan right now. Prada is trying to change the slim silhouette now for a few seasons, but it is difficult in a world where men hate to change the fit of their suit. They prefer to stick to what they have. But what Prada suggested yesterday didn’t seem strange at all: the rounded shoulderline, the wider fit and the black mixed with lurex in jewelcolors looked nice. However, it were the tracksuits and shiny, synthetic fabrics that made me look away.

In a time where men are desperately looking for a new dresscode this was not a serious alternative. It was tacky and a bit cheap. But, as with all those Prada-collections which irritate at first sight, the fashion-oracle probably knows something we all don’t understand yet. Time will tell.

John Varvatos Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011h

John Varvatos’ models seemed to be travelers. A railroad track was staged on the catwalk and a big clock was the backdrop of the show. According to John his men started their journey in London and ended up in Milan. They wore lots of layers in shades of gray, Merlot, claret and brown.

Their looks were somewhat slouchy cool. Their suits were crumpled, their knitwear was rough and we saw many coats with raw edges. Combined with the scruffy hats and round (and colored) sunglasses it gave the models some kind of rocker status too.

A great aspect of the show was the mutability of the designs. Most items could be worn in more than one way and because of the layering every outfit became multi-functional. So if you’re planning on traveling a lot next fall John Varvatos is your man!

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

For fall/winter Roberto Cavalli presented his new collection, called Groovy Mood. It sure was groovy and had the seventies (a popular inspiration in womenswear at the moment too) written all over it. Male models wore tight jackets combined with slightly flared pants in shades like rust, red, camel and brown. They had small scarves tied around their neck and their boots were kinda pointy.

Besides the suits Cavalli also introduced some shearling, suede, fur (which looked a little too pimpy) and oversized knitted ponchos, which not every men will be able to pull of. Therefore we doubt if the collection is going to be a huge success. Yet is sure was fun to watch!

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

At Salvatore Ferragamo the seventies played a part in styling, from the big coats and bohemian layers ’till the turtlenecks and suede shirts with laced up closures. The Doors’ Riders on the Storm and Lou Reed were on the soundtrack and added that extra atmosphere to the presentation.

Color also played a major part in this collection and ran from off white and beige to red, bordeaux, blue and petrol. Different textures were mixed, and hats (the accessory of this season) and big scarves were added. The overall silhouette was fitted, with slim jackets, straight pants, simple knits and suede shirts.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The collection Emporio Armani sent out this morning had an industrial theme, with lots of long coats, black and greys and a mix of fabrics and textures.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The Bottega Veneta collection was a relaxed mix of formal and informal wear, with cozy knits, wrinkled and washed fabrics, layers and color. Besides black and grey, Tomas Maier spoiled his customers with red, mustard-yellow, green and blue. Just what a man needs during the day.

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Why does a Burberry-show always make me cry? Most of the time it’s because of the sensitive soundtrack, the melancholy that drips from songs like Bang Bang sung by Cliff Richard or You don’t have to say I love you by Dusty Springfield. I know, It sounds silly but when I hear those songs and I see a good collection I cannot stop myself from swallowing those tears.  And this was a great collection totally focused at coats. Christopher Bialey went away from the militairy stuff he did send out a few seasons now and went for a more colorful and normal, daily theme like the British weather.

“We British, we are obsessed by the weather, and I wanted to explore that, and to celebrate the coat,” Burberry’s chief creative  said after the show. This outerwear, inspired by Burberry ads from the early Sixties, ranged from the sculptural to the streamlined. Tweeds, herringbones, laquered leather, camel and fur were used for car coats, partly in dark brown and black, but the sun breaked through with the reds, yellow, orange, blue and tangerine. The bold blanket checks looked daring and fresh as did the more sculptural coats from stiffened wools. After such a refreshing collection, the audience didn’t bother the showering rain at the end of the show.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons keeps on pushing the color-theme at Jil Sander. After two strong, minimalistic springcollections for him and her where he surprised the in all black dressed fashioncrowd with vivid colors and white T-shirts, his winter 2011 collection seems more in balance. He started with a dark suit, which actually was a mix of purple and black, combined with a shirt and sweater. But soon the colors changed into yellow, white, pink, orange and electric blue for total outfits and subtler mixes.

Simons replaced the mens shirt by T-shirts in shiny, bubbly fabrics and presented them in layers which added more volume and a fresh, modern touch to the minimal style.

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