Anna Sui Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

Antonio Lopez, an illustrator and photographer from the seventies, was Anna Sui’s big inspiration for spring/summer 2012. She got inspired by the way he introduced vintage fashion and disco music to Paris.

The disco was translated to strong rock n roll colors (pink and red), the vintage could be seen in some soft creamy shades. They were mixed with bold graphic prints in all kinds of colors.

Most of the designs were dresses, vintage looking ones in any kind of shape, mostly worn with a belt. The styling was over the top, very Anna Sui. The models wore turbans, sunglasses,chunky necklaces, headpieces, colorful socks and earrings, preferably all at once.

There was so much to see, there must have been a cool fashion piece for just about every woman in the room. And when styled a little more subtle each item on it’s own will immediately become very wearable.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

Michael Kors ‘afriluxe’ collection wasn’t the most flattering we’ve seen from him. His models wore oversized djellebas, scruffy skirts, shredded tops and gladiator (which often and on the worst fashion item list) sandals.

Yet he did manage to give that African theme his own touch of glamour. He came up with some cute animal prints, feather dresses and his accessories upgraded the collection. He designed leather bags with crocodile belts, waist&chestbelts (2 in 1) and some snakeskin bangles and chunky chokers.

His animal printed dresses looked the most wearable and will probably be the hit of this spring collection. Also Kors’ bathing suits with sophisticated leather details will make his clientèle look swell on the beach. Yet the rest of the collection failed to impress and we seriously wonder who’d wanna spend a thousand dollars on a scrappy patchwork sweater and skirt.

Tory Burch Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

It was Tory Burch’s first catwalkshow in more than seven years and she just opened a new flagship store in New York. Sales are doing well, so there were some reasons to be cheerful. For spring, Burch chose the twenties-era Deauville as her inspiration. The result was a good collection, refined, smart and neat and Burch didn’t fell in the trap of just copying that style. She used her own print, silhouette and colors. Her take on the iconic sailor stripe for example was changed into waves. And the dots were actually tiny little squares.

Vera Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

Vera Wang tried a different path with her ss2012 collection. More psychedelic colors and prints, different shapes and volumes, new colors. But the result was too much fairytale and less reality. Tiny little vests with detachable volants in cotton and oversize eyelet. Skirts made from sheer parachute silk that grazed the thighs in the front and trailed weightless in the back. Gowns with diamond-shape cutouts on the chest. Gauzy leggings. The effect looked a bit forced.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

That was a beautiful, colorful and romantic collection Rodarte sent out yesterday. Part Sleeping Beauty part Vincent van Gogh. The artists’ color palette and paintings with sunflowers, cherryblossoms and starry night inspired the Rodarte sisters. They explained to the press that they fell for the greens and purples of the 1959 animated Disney classic Sleeping Beauty, and asked themselves who else uses colors like that. They found their answer in the Dutch postimpressionist painter. It was all the more unexpected for the fact that those Van Gogh prints can turn out into something kitchy.

The Mulleavy sisters have flirted with kitsch before, but here the effect was often hypnotic. The clothes were a mesmerizing concoction of color, construction and fantastical gowns. No matter how voluminous or seemingly simple, every look was boned for precise fit and structure.

Van Gogh’s colors are powerful, and not just his purples and greens, but also the blues and yellows. But the fifties prom dress silhouettes—nipped at the waist, with focus at the shoulders and the flaring hems—seemed so resolutely in the past. Young women might like it and wear it, but will grown up women pay more than 4000 for a dress like that? Yet there was also plenty of downright approachable designs — tapered, cropped, pants; tiered georgette skirts and fantastic color-blocked hand-knit cable sweaters.

Theyskens’ Theory Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

The models at the Theyskens’ Theory show one by one looked kinda depressed. The showed absolutely no expression and made the show feel sort of lifeless. Truly there wasn’t really any need for that. The collection full of straight up streetstyle looks was fun.

Olivier Theyskens came up with jeans that were both high waisted and slouchy, held in place by a small belt. He designed shorts and sleeveless jackets, netted tops, jumpsuits, leather parkas, chainmail vests and cobweb dresses.

But the pieces that will most likely become a hit were some leather pants with holographic shine to them. Styled with neutral items like a white blouse or a black sweater these eye-catchers become very wearable. So we guess this is not the last we’ve seen of them.

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

A star studded front row (with Justin Timberlake, Ashley Olsen, Valentino and Nicki Minaj) enjoyed a remarkable fresh spring collection at Oscar de la Renta’s 42^nd Street showroom. Frizzy haired models sported De la Renta’s beautifully handcrafted design, which felt younger than we’ve seen before in his over forty years in fashion.

Extravagant ball gowns were mixed with tiny couture lace T-shirts, the cutest spring dresses were worn with wide belts and loose pants were perfectly matched with elegant short jackets.

A black tight dress with dozens of white tassels seemed perfect for a night out, a yellow ball gown with puffy sleeves looked like it belonged in a fairytale.

The color palette ranging from yellow to grass green, nudes, pink and red felt perfect for spring. The models looked natural and confident. The overall vibe was easy-going, wearable, ladylike and fresh.

It was a collection that might have some younger girls hitting the stores for their own piece of ODLR. And for the loyal ODLR- customers, there will be lots of great designs to choose from as well.

Carolina Herrera Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

 

This spring 2012 collection of Carolina Herrera was the designer at her most chic, in the spirit of Bauhaus (again, see Marc by Marc Jacobs) and in control. Interesting parts were the lines, blocks of stripes in yellow, green and black, embroideries and appliques in geometric patterns.

The collection consisted of those typical Herrera items: bow blouses, shirt-dresses and evening gowns. But there was also a little sportswear in graphic knits, short jackets and pants cuffed above the ankle.

 

 

First View New York SS2012: Digital Flowers

Make way for flowers! Digital printing finally get’s the stage it deserves. The silk printed iconic patterns once produced by Alexander McQueen and Mary Katranzou clearly left their trace. It’s sure one loves a touch of authenticity even when executed in one of the most advanced printing techniques. Designers went for water colour paintings, expressionist artistry, poetic and nostalgic bouquets among 70s pop florals and wild abstracts.  But there is also a less orthodox offering. Twisted versions that are blurred, cut and pasted, all adorning a rich variety of styles. In this stylespot we lined up bold 70s florals from DKNY, blurred water paints of Prabal Gurung, cut and pasted vibrancy of Altuzarra, sheer/opaque coordinates of Jason Wu and a brave shaded bicolor etching of Richard Chai.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

 

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

The presentation of Marc Jacobs’ main collection is delayed by Hurricane Irene, so we’ll have to wait for his master’s collection until Thursday, the last day of New York Fashion Week. His second line Marc by Marc Jacobs was presented yesterday. And what a surprise. Instead of his signature vintage look and feel and references to other decades, this was a sleeker, cleaner and more grown up collection.

In the press release Bauhaus was mentioned as a source of influence, and minimalism certainly defined the collection in silhouette and color. There were boxy tops, shorts and simple shift dresses and skirts. Plain but powerful.

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