Sjaak Hullekes Preview Amsterdam Fashion Week
January 19, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Amsterdam, Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear
Sjaak Hullekes is the second designer to reveal a little bit of the collection he will show at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. Together with Bas Kosters Hullekes will present his fall/winter 2012/2013 collection on the opening-night, Wednesday 25 January at 07.00 PM. He spoke with us about his brand new collection.
Show
“The first time I showed my collection during Amsterdam Fashion Week was in 2007. Although it’s been a while, I’m glad to be back. I decided to show again during AFW since the fashion week has made a new start. It’s more about the fashion again, instead of the people and the party.”
Goal
“For us showing at AFW is about showing my work to the press and trying to sell. Yet we also want to give everyone in the audience a small stimulant. It’s good to be able to show our collection to a broader audience.”
Time
“We’re right on schedule for this collection. Since we’re going to Paris a few days before the show, everything had to be done in time. There’s still some work to do but I am not worried. At some point you just have to have faith in the people around you, so I am actually pretty calm.”
Inspiration
“Our inspiration for the show is Gemstone. The collection is about the contrast between the way we work with technology nowadays versus the way in which people just used to work with what the earth had to offer. To get in the mood for this collection we watched the movie Pink Narcissus and we watched clips of Serpentine Dancers. The city Marrakesh was also a big source of inspiration. We visited the city a couple of times and just love how everything stimulates your senses; the hammam, the gardens, the herbs.”
Look & feel
“The color palette of the collection is very rich, we used deep shades like amber and aubergine. We also used Berber influences and you’ll see aesthetic and mystic references.”
Dance
“We’re going to show a total of 40 looks; 32 looks we will show on models and 8 other looks will be shown on dancers. I cannot tell you anything more about that. Let’s just keep it a surprise until Wednesday.”
Photography: Jeannette Huisman@Team Peter Stigter
Elise Kim Preview Amsterdam Fashion Week
January 18, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Amsterdam, Fashion, Featured Items, womenswear
Today we will start a new series of previews of fashion-collections as an appetizer for the coming Amsterdam Fashion Week. We will start with designer Elise Kim.
Of course we will write and post our review after the official show or presentation plus photos of the complete collection. We’ll keep you posted!
Elise Kim will show her fall/winter 2012/2013 collection on Thursday 26 January at 06.00 PM. She spoke with us about her brand new collection which is all about the moment we fall asleep…
Time
“The collection is already finished, so we can be quite relaxed. I always make sure I’m right on schedule with my work; I am a real planner. Besides, I got a little help too from one intern, and two seamstresses.”
Amsterdam Fashion Week
“This is going to be my third collection. I am very glad to be able to show my work during Amsterdam Fashion Week. If Grazia had not supported me I should have held a smaller show. I hope that through this show people will get to know my work better. I hope it will result in some extra publicity and maybe, just maybe, some extra sale points. Yet this won’t happen so easily, since my clothes are pretty expensive. In Paris, where I will go in March, I will probably do better.”
Inspiration
“Epiphenomenon is the theme of this collection. It’s the first part of a trilogy. I will show the second and third part in my upcoming collection. It’s all about the fragmentation of reality at the moment you’re starting to fall asleep. The collection will be an abstraction of the moment in which you loose sense of collateral things. You move into another dimension.”
Looks
“The theme of the collection is visible in every single one of the 30 looks. It will be translated through (pretty vague) music, the use of fabric and my choice of colors. For instance the order of the clothes will represent the phases from being awake to falling asleep; from dreamy and soft to tough and real.”
Colors
“Shades of blue, deep blue, black, nude and black again will represent the phase you go through from being awake to falling asleep as well. The nude stands for the moment right before you fall asleep and wake up just a little bit.”
Materials
“I used silk, cotton, leather and a special kind of wool, which doesn’t even look like it comes from sheep, cause it’s so long. New for me is the knitwear I used, for instance on a long knitted dress. I also created my very first own print at the Textielmuseum in Tilburg. It’s a kind of feather print, printed on white silk.”
Women
“I make clothes for women who know what they want and who stand for quality. I would love to see women like Carice van Houten or Anne Hatthaway wear my clothes, but then again I’m flattered by every single woman who puts on my designs.”
Photography: Jeannette Huisman@Team Peter Stigter
DSquared Catwalk Fashion School Milan FW2012
January 17, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Milan
High School was the setting at the DSquared show and the model acted like little schoolboys, smoking on the runway and throwing paper planes at teacher. A retro classroom was set at the end of the runway. The models tried to behave like rebels, but the collection was far from that. Just DSquared-clothes: distressed, low-rise denim, fitted biker jackets and college-style shirts. But a great theme to play with. And there were actually some great outfits and garments, like the mohair & angora Fair Isle sweaters, a nice tweed car coat and some fitted suits.
Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012
In Milan traditional men’s wear fabrics such as tweed, herringbone and plaids were dominating the fall-collections, and Giorgio Armani is no exception. The designer presented a masculine but soft-edged collection, with knitted wool, stretchy fabrics, velvet, corduroy and leather. Knitwear was also used as outerwear in double-breasted coats with patch pockets and short jackets with high, zippered necks.
Softness and comfort wove its way throughout the collection: fitted tweed or corduroy suit jackets had deconstructed shoulders, while anoraks were made from black velvet. Armani choose a looser, pleated silhouette of trouserd that narrowed at the ankle. Plus he presented his version of the power suit, which exuded the arrogant confidence of the Roaring Eighties.
Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012
January 17, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Milan
The Versace-collection was so over the top, that designer Donatella Versace must have been joking. It looked like an upgraded version of the Village People had landed at the platform: biker jackets with golden studs and chains, psychedelic (camouflage) prints, eveningwear embroidered with crystals and bright red fur coat. Donatella described the collection as ‘military ironic and Versace glamour’.
Well, she succeeded.
Pringle of Scotland Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012
Backstage designer Alistair Carr told the press he didn’t want to be afraid of the brand’s heritage. This lead to chunky tartan sweaters and lots of knit elements. The knitwear was worn with perfect pleated pants, jersey leggings and even a few pairs of leather motor pants popped up.
At Pringle too, the turtleneck made an appearance. Yet Carr let his models wear them underneath a thick knitted sweater instead of a shirt, like the other menswear brands did.
It was quite a pure and simple collection; some good basics were presented in the mix with the more outspoken pieces. The color palette might have been more coherent (it formed a combination of warm autumn shades (orange, red, camel) and cool winter tones (grey, blue, pink)), yet there were more than enough solid items for every man’s fall/winter wardrobe.
Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012
January 16, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Milan
Etro designer Kean Etro couldn’t get enough of feathers for his FW2012-collection. Feather-prints, real fathers, at shoes, vests, blazers and tailcoats. It gave all the formal and evening looks a fancy edge, but it didn’t lead to a strong collection. Of course there was the usual velvet, the fitted suit and the usual dark colors plus red and orange, which made the collection fit in the trend of romance & decadence.
Calvin Klein Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012
Inspired by New York Italo Zucchelli came up with a strong collection which felt quite sportive. He designed nylon sweaters and hoodies/jackets with croc leather detailing. He created loose fitting pants, thick leather jackets, water resistant parkas, sporty body warmers and structured Tees worn over long-sleeves.
The clothes looked comfy and his XL-coats and enormous capes looked like they could bare any kind of winter weather condition. No, the Calvin Klein man won’t get cold very easily in those layered looks.
And though some of the designs (and the palette ranging from camel to black) seemed a bit too classic, those cashmeres, alpacas, mohairs, leathers, and alligator will suit the modern CK man just fine.
Gucci Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012
January 16, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Milan
Well it was very obvious that the Gucci-collection fw2012 is about romance and decadence. 19th century bohemian men played a major role in this mix of flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry. The designer played with proportions putting big overcoats over chunky crew necks and cardigans over skinny trousers and riding boots. Army and navy-inspirations were also weaved into this collection.
Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012
Despite the angry looks on their faces Missoni’s models looked nice and cosy as they entered the runway. Their tight fitted knitted jumpers and cardigans made you wanna introduce them to your grandma.
Checked pants, striped sweaters, argyle vests and jumpers with the fashion labels’ popular zigzag motif all passed by in a beautiful color palette of autumn shades.
We do feel Angela Missoni could have added a little more spice to the collection. Yet luckily some sportive parkas, body warmers and nylon jackets gave it a little more edge.
