Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Ralp Lauren was inspired by far away exotic places, this time Spain or Latin America. Matador suits, serapes, ruffles, fringe—they all got the Lauren treatment.

Playing with black, white, red, and turquoise he started with soft tailoring in suede, some of which was accented with tooled leather details. Shawls and ponchos turned up in various forms, and dresses and skirts were hand-crocheted. Scarves knotted at the neck, glass bead necklaces, and studded leather mailbags completed the vivid picture.

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Workwear

The workwear-theme is a direction that is going to fly at retail. Uptown clothing with slight hints of couture sensibility, fueled with a youthful vibe. Wearable clothes with an almost unfinished looseness designed for the freedom of movement. Altuzarra introduces a cape-jacket featuring sleeves with air vents. We are all pretty sure that this will be one of the most copied attributes coming seasons. From neat, upbeat authentics, twisted traditional bikers to cut-up, nonlinear patchworks, it is all about tough versus tender, showing bold square and male outlines that are nipped at the waist, schoolgirl short, crisp white collared and even showing hints of lace trimming

Altuzarra buckles up as well as buttons down which makes an exiting contrast, where Rag & Bone shows Victorians on Safari, spicing biker classics with sweet romance. The Sahara shaded Belstaff collection shows the sensual side of its motor-cross heritage.

And there is more, from the hooded tent-dresses of Yigal Azrouel to the patchwork denims and shredded khakis of Phillip Lim. All extremely shoppable.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It was well balanced collection of Narciso Rodriguez with spare silhouettes, exquisite cuts and colorful graphics that were in control.

Rodriguez used his fall collection, which featured collaging techniques, as a starting point for spring. This time he furthered his play on construction. Rodriguez also ventured into surface embellishments.  There were laminated wood paillettes, which he applied, in one case, in an abstract motif on a teal and moss dress. He also added colorful floral embroidery on several chic tops. The texture added a  new dimension to Rodriguez’s work. So were his final two languid white slipdresses that were almost transparent were it not for their big fuchsia and magenta color blocks.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Rugby stripes, bold blocks of color, digital prints of clouds and pools, hints of the mod 1960s. Michael Kors went for  “geometric glamour.” The collection had a crisp look and feel. Sixties & stripes played a major role this season in New York, so Kors is right on track.
There were covetable items like a one-piece tank suit with zips on the sides, a white  leather shirtdress with gold snap closures, and trim coats in primary brights.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Layering infused with a dose of Bananarama style that’s what Marc by Marc Jacobs ss 2013 is about. Oversized shirts were tucked into rolled-up baggy pants, a full-skirted peplum dress in faded floral denim and patchwork designs combined checks, gingham and paisley for a youthful touch The show’s cool styling (scarves for belts and hair accessories) offered countless ways of putting a wardrobe together.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The Rodarte-collection was all about medieval and fantasy role-playing games. It seemed a statement in power-dressing, the show referenced armored warriors, road warriors and also……. Nicolas Ghesquière. Short, strapless dresses shown layered over tight, printed turtlenecks had bodices shaped like partial octagons that jutted away from the body like a breastplate. Other variations on the armor motif included waistlines embellished with draped chains and corsetlike metal embroidery on long, fluid gowns. Also: bohemian bikers in robust black leather, including lace-up pants and quilted jackets with ample fringe and colorful silk trim.

The dominant silhouettes — short, structured dresses; boxy tops worn with skinny pants — and colors — teal, black, orange — are commonly associated with the term “futuristic,” especially with matching shoes. Yet the mix of materials and construction suggested a lot of handwork and gave the look an artisanal touch.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The spring summer 2013 collection of Donna Karan was about nature: sand, water, light. Abd it was light in every sense, floaty fabrics, slithering shapes and colors like dawn-sky blue and rich sunset pink. The silhouette – fitted-on-top, full-below-the-waist  – was borrowed from the world of ballet, or the 1950s.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Marc Jacobs took fashion into another direction. Again. But he still finds a covered girl sexy, so that opinion didn’t change. The result for his ss2013 collection: suits with below-the-knee skirts worn low on the hips, bare midriffs and long skirts and dresses. Many of the outfits came in wide vertical stripes — black, maroon, taupe — with matching purses and  little shoes with low heels.  The models’ hair was ratted at the crown and pulled into a low ponytail.

The show was literally eyepopping and a play with optical illusions, also 1960 Swinging London revisited. The message for summer 2013 was hard, young and graphic. The geometric elements were everywhere: zigzag op-art patterns or harlequin effects; shoes with checkered heels.

Herve Leger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The collection Max Azria designed for Herve Leger was inspired by the quilts of Gee’s Bend, a rural community in Alabama whose women have developed a distinct style of traditional patchworking over the past two centuries. The influence gave the collection an extra dimension seen in geometric patterns and passementerie appliqué details. Versions came flared at the hemline or jazzed up with interlocking chains, a fishnetlike overlay and leather harnesses.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Phillip Lim’s explained in his shownotes that he had been exploring “cut-up,” a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead.  Cut-up is another word for nonlinearity. In fashion Cut-up could also mean mix ‘n’ match. Like Philip Lim did.
Take his interpretation of sheers. One ofe the main trends for ss2013 is see-through clothes which is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces as were the patchwork denim, shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.

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