Could a Jaws T-shirt with a CK logo printed onto it be a potential hot seller? Designer Raf Simons likes to think so. Inspired by seventies movies such as Jaws, Hooper, Ben and The Graduate he came up with a playful collection of deconstructed, asymmetric, unfinished (fringed ends everywhere) looks and a whole lot of Jaws merch. There is not much left of the straightforward, minimalistic, clean catwalk looks Calvin Klein used to have over the past few years. Raf Simons seems to like to experiment for the brand.
The printed (prints were animal inspired and tie dye) tea dresses looked a bit difficult though. Strong shouldered tweed jackets seemed appealing. Leather bodysuits felt fit for a dive into the ocean as heavy knits and graceful pleated skirts (as worn by Stella Tennant) felt like the best idea. And that loose fitting red beanie Doutzen Kroes sported might just finish off the whole look. Food for thought.
Tom Ford’s show notes spoke of the essence of him being a designer, the reason why. “I became a designer, because I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence. A feeling of knowing that they looked their best and could then present their best selves to the world. I wanted to make clothes that were flattering. That make one look taller and slimmer and more beautiful or more handsome.” And ever since the designer really put himself on the map in the mid-1990s he did just that.
SS2019 was no exception. To the sounds of Netflix series Babylon Berlin’s theme song he sent out an army of fierce looking women and some men. Cardi B, who created a lipstick with Tom ford that this week sold out in a day, was present among some other celebs.
The guys wore suits with shirts and sweaters with a pair of statement glasses.They main womenswear outfit was a mismatched powder shaded skirt suit in a mix of lace, satin and silk materials. Another big theme in the collection was croc leather popping up in the shape of jackets, belts, bags, bracelets and wallets in shades of black, green and lilac.
There were some impeccable trench coats, a leopard printed pony skin coat and a selection of the sexiest party pieces. Like a deconstructed tux or a sheer and body tight little black dress. Every look was styled off by a pair of pointy shoes with ankle straps and the female models sported silk scarves on their heads. Like Tom Ford promised in his show notes he made his models look their best; glamorous, confident, seductive and sexy af.
Raf Simons marked his first year at Calvin Klein by filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo’s worth of popcorn, not for people to eat but to wade through and sit in, for his fall show. This collection was about America.
The collection felt loaded with dark symbolism. With Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner sweaters, sinister but cozy homespun knitted ski hoods, Warhol silver foiled aprons, and prairie dresses done in subversive sheers or with cutouts at the breast. There was an abundance of oversized tailoring, ski sweaters, a leopard coat and wispy silk dresses printed to mimic classic American quilting patterns.
For the past two days New York was the homebase of The Kingpins Show, an invitation-only, boutique denim sourcing show featuring a highly-edited selection of vendors. We were there to capture the event and the atmosphere. International denim heads, countless denim variations, a colorful art project and an outdoor after party that felt more like a summer festival; this was Kingpins NYC SS2018.
Program notes the Proenza Schouler collection cited American art of the Sixties and Seventies as an influence. The fall collection, the notes read, would explore “notions of control and release.” In terms of craft and the technical aspect of making clothes, that meant experimentation with cut and silhouette — when to hug the body, when to let loose with fabric, how to expose skin while avoiding vulgarity and cliché.
Two silhouettes anchored the lineup. Tailored looks featured long jackets, their shapeliness achieved via twisting of the fabrics and asymmetric closures, worn over low-slung, wide pants in fluid fabrics. Dresses kept close to the body on top, releasing into languid skirts. Either way, lacing figured prominently, for both decoration and function.
Of course, designers look back for inspiration all the time. Yet not often do classic and modern blend so well together as they did at Rodarte. Inspired by poets like Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Emily Dickinson designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy came up with an eclectic Victorian collection. Lots of lace and fur, appliqués and sparkles. To attend a fancy dinner or hit the dance floor. Dressed up yet not too costume-y. With long silky scarves, metal belts and extra long sleeves focusing on neck, waist and cuffs. Hair accessories and XL earrings added to the drama of the looks, which presented on an icy runway, appeared more winter than summer. Okay, those giant fur coats like the pale pink one worn by Laura Julie might have had something to do with that too. This was nostalgic Hollywood glitter with a light modern touch. Glam rock done in the most elegant way with lots of attention for detail. Disco chic with a movie star touch. And that is where we approach Kate and Laura’s other project, directing upcoming movie Woodshock. An exciting new step in their careers that luckily didn’t affect their exquisite taste and talent in fashion designing.
Prabal Gurung took a very modern take on womanly traditions, or in his words, “femininity with a bite.” His inspiration cam from the 50’s elegance, especially Marilyn Monroe. Gurung’s colors, the roses and the Marilyn-esque glamour were all imaginatively retooled throughout the canadian discount viagra online collection, which opened with the models lined up behind clear plastic walls.
There was also a clinical element to the show, which Gurung used to subvert the retro sophistication. White double-bonded cotton poplin dresses with fold-over details backed in pastels brought to mind nurse uniforms. There was also a collision of athletic details and tony classics.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.
Marc Jacobs took fashion into another direction. Again. But he still finds a covered girl sexy, so that opinion didn’t change. The result for his ss2013 collection: suits with below-the-knee skirts worn low on the hips, bare midriffs and long skirts and dresses. Many of the outfits came in wide vertical stripes — black, maroon, taupe — with matching purses and little shoes with low heels. The models’ hair was ratted at the crown and pulled into a low ponytail.
The show was literally eyepopping and a play with optical illusions, also 1960 Swinging London revisited. The message for summer 2013 was hard, young and graphic. The geometric elements were everywhere: zigzag op-art patterns or harlequin effects; shoes with checkered heels.
Our own fashiondictionary Stevie Wonder Collection Means: not good! Whenever you see a collection and you run out of words to describe how bad it was, you call it a Stevie Wonder Collection. It's just a nice way to say the collection sucks.