Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Today Etro started with a same Eastern inspired vibe Miuccia Prada had ended her show with yesterday. At Etro too we spotted kimono like designs, antisymmetric dresses, wide sleeves, attention grabbing belts and Japanese floral prints. No Geisha shoes (and socks!) here, but everything else with a Eastern feeling was part of the Etro spring/summer 2013 story.

The show maybe started off light; pretty soon designs turned colorful and exotic covered in cheerful Eastern flowers. And Etro’s signature paisley print maybe disappeared a bit to the background, we were presented with these gorgeous floral prints in return.

There were not so many every day wear looks and it might take a while before we hit the office judoka style. Yet every single one of the models at Etro looked glamorous and stunning. Combined with a slick hairstyle, eye-catching earrings and large clutches the designs made up for some gorgeous geisha’s everyone will want to be in 2013, at least for one night.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Regarding the round helmets, short A-line shifts and military buttons, Moschino went for Sixties Pop.  It started with graphic black-and-white worked in bold contrast on piped dresses and suits, cropped jackets, mini skirts and a little tank jumper.
There were jail-stripes and then, once color moved in with orange and blue, cabana stripes. The house’s signature hearts and flowers were also present.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Toughness and the poetic part. That was where Prada’s collection for ss2013 was all about. To WWD she explained that she wanted to mix these two together, ‘because this is mainly what wiomen have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream’.

The clothes were neither overtly romantic nor wistful, the shapes almost severe.  The first look was a short black dress emblazoned with an off-center panel decorated with two white long  flowers.  Then followed a parade of similarly crafted suits, dresses, jackets over knee shorts, their printed and appliquéd flowers providing a sweet touch to the severe shapes. You could see references to traditional Japanese kimonos, hakamas and footwear, as well as hints of lingerie. There was also some color: dark green, navy, splashes of red, and pastels.

 

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013 Milan

For anything light, classy and feminine Giorgio Armani is your go to guy next year. The designer’s spring/summer looks breathed one hundred percent sophistication and softness to the max. Dressed in shades ranging from nude and natural and pastel models looked innocent and ladylike at the same time. Besides a touch of metallic gave the collection a welcome edge. Materials layered on top of each other gave the looks a nice and rich feeling, while the loose fit of the designs added a bit of effortlessness. Some tops and skirts maybe resembled pieces of origami; folded asymmetrical creations never looked this cool. A basket-like braided pastel shaded jacket worn with a graphical printed pair of silky shorts made up for the ultimate show stopping look of this spring collection. It beautifully illustrated mixing unexpected materials and light shades can look surprisingly fresh and natural. We like!

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013 Milan

Beige, sand, black; for SS2013 Max Mara stuck to the basic color palette, we’ve been seeing for quite a few seasons now. And we couldn’t blame the brand that has booked quite a few successes (remember the popular camel colored statement coats?). This time around there was a lot more at sight though. Neutral shades were mixed with leopard and floral prints, checks and a touch of shiny lavender blue.

The models’ dress code appeared to be a mix of sporty, safari and chic as the girls combined animal printed pencil skirts and loose fitting striped tees. Jackets looked chic and tough at the same time and materials like suede, wool and silk worked together perfectly. Jumpsuits, oversized bags, sloughy headbands, epaulettes and ankle strap shoes completed Max Mara’s urban jungle… We sure can’t wait to work those leopard & checks prints!

 

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013 Milan

Shiny, sheer and sequined; three words that cover Alberta Ferretti’s brand new spring/summer collection. Siren chic seemed to be the dress code for her romantic catwalk presentation and oh my did Ferretti’s sea goddesses look seductive.

Dressed in a series of delicate, short and sheer cocktail dresses the models showed lots of skin and still looked sophisticated. Peplums of light tulle and beaded Fringes kept it playful even though we’re sure Ferretti could come up with tons of extra light-colored cocktail dresses if she had to.

A long black evening dress, which appeared sheer in all the wrong places, looked purposely risqué. Yet the sheerness did give Ferretti’s collection the extra sexy touch it needed.

No need for an ocean, nor for beautiful voices; all Ferretti’s sirens need are those gorgeous ivory, black, blue and green shaded dresses to sweep any man of his feet.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013 Milan

It was a flamboyant, glamorous collection Frida Giannini sent out for Gucci. She was inspired by Richard Avedon and style-icons like Marella Agnelli, Talitha Getty and Gloria Vanderbilt. The colors were vibrant, the silhouette lean and tailored with bold, large scale ruffles. Giannini introduced a new ‘pajama’: a tunic over matching fluid pants. She showed it sometimes with abundant, tiered ruffles running down the sleeves, sometimes with cutout backs. The unfussy femininity made for a  bridge between sportswear and a suit. Giannini diversified a bit with a python jacquard and a giant sea anemone print.

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Patchwork

Patchwork Part 1

A patchwork parade of energetic pieces and brave design experiments. Collage couture with an edgy urban cool factor in acid and surfer brights with jet black and silver grey.  Eye-popping textures are alternated with slick sheen and metallic shimmer, fluidity with chunky, sculptural textiles.

Proenza Schouler shows experimental mixes of plains with perforated, bonded, laser cut and crocheted surfaces. Mixed with diagonally stitched strips of digital print. Diane von Furstenberg is faithful to her hippy deluxe, flirty fashion. Kaftans, wrap skirts, jodhpurs are all worn in layers. Rodarte shows collages of guipure, jacquard, jewellery and panels of printed silk.

In this print parade and mix mesh of textures there is a common vibe, which binds together a large variety of designers. But underneath this collage of design experiments we recognize the roots well planted by Balenciaga, exploring the interaction between technology and craft.

Patchwork Part 2

Cool is THE word reviewing NY fashion week. Street-y cool, retro cool, ragtag cool, hippie cool are all synonyms used by Style.com for the Peter Som collection. Yet these cover a whole generation of designs, showing oh-so-sweet looks with bohemian flavor. Icons of romance and nostalgia; puffed sleeves, frills, flounces and gatherings, receive an infusion of cool through mad mixing, digital printing, weird cutting and pasting and piling contrasting layers in different proportions.

A print parade of classics as well as digital re-editions.

Marc by Marc Jacobs shows a mix mesh of patterns all brought together with fun, flair and bravery. Phillip Lim makes street-wise collages of patterns and plains. Peter Som adds a cool twist to traditional retro where Rebecca Minkoff mixes young and sexy with bon-vivant, grandma-chic.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Optical Illusions

This is fashion’s new  season range of great looking, shape-shifting garments.

Marc Jacobs surprised with a ravishing revival of the swinging 60s. Reminding us of Andy Warhol and his Factory. Reviving the fresh looks of It girls Edie Sedgwick and Peggy Moffitt, both icons of New York cool.

Marc Jacobs played games with graphics in looks that are playful and upbeat, cartoonish and sexy. Adding modern twist, fresh swirl and a crispness that leaves no room for nostalgic sentiments. Optical illusions in neat dazzling stripes and a white variety of geometrics here in a stripy lower then low slung skirt and a jumpsuit with bold bended block stripes. Alex Wang showed boxy, fragmented outfits; cut and slashed in seemingly loose and mysteriously floating bits and pieces. Lacoste goes racy in a sexy cut out dress that plays with contours and proportions.

Fantastic entertainment thanks to the right mix of fashion magic, genius and artisanship.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Francisco Costa closed New York fashion week with a collection that had a strong sexual vibe. He opened with a black satin conical bustier dress, the model’s belle poitrine outlined in silver. All signs pointed to the bust as this collection’s erogenous zone. But Costa didn’t ignore the waist or the legs, either. Peplums played a starring role, and narrow belts accented most of the looks.
Costa also played with fabric, adding a white lining to the black mesh he used for a skirtsuit which produced a vibrating moiré effect.

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