Aquilano & Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

There was a lot going on in Aquilano & Rimondi’s spring collection. Inspired by Fellini, couturier Roberto Capucci, the Venice Carnival and Picasso; designs indeed were a mix of many influences. Argyle patterns (in black, white and metallic shades) were used throughout the complete collection, on the balloon-y short skirts and over the knee pencil versions. Skirts that were combined with corset bodies and several wide sleeved tops (some Japanese details in between all the Italian references).

There were some exquisite looks, which combined skirts, peplums and tight bodies. Yet there were some ill fitting ones too, which will probably never work on the body of an average woman. There were no pants in sight, no sweater, no jackets; no tees. Meaning for a wearable daywear look the Aquilano & Rimondi woman will probably have to shop elsewhere. Yet if she has a party coming up that midi argyle printed skirt combined with that ivory top might just blow everyone else away.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Pure, minimal, reduced. Jil Sanders first women’s collection under her own name since 8 years was exactly what she is know for. The designs were both pure and true to her way of looking at clothes, which is to make an intelligent, respectful appeal to women of all ages. The show opened with a sleeveless coat-dress that, over a white blouse, looked like a schoolgirl jumper. It was followed by another coat-dress whose sleeves fell to just below the elbow. Dresses were her focus. Working in structured fabrics in wine and navy, Sander cut almost everything with room, usin constructions and techniques to sculpt, round and extend shoulders, sleeves and hips. Movement underscored the collection, like the jacket whose subtly exaggerated back swung elegantly; or the oversized culottes that swished like a silk skirt; or the boots with zips that spiraled around the calf.

Antonio Marras Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Antonio Marras took his show as an opportunity to throw a little party. He wanted to celebrated a new alliance with manufacturer Castor with a wedding party. Guests where sitting around little tables drinking coffee and eating iced sponge cake. The models paraded about in dresses and coats made from patchworks of bouclé fabrics, damasks and tweeds in candied almond shades.

Versus Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Christopher Kane himself described today’s Versus collection as Cartoon-y and toy-like. And well.. that pretty much covers every look. For fifteen minutes Donatella and Christopher welcomed us into their plastic Barbie-like world. Colors (pink, yellow, blue) were bright, materials (a lot of plastic) shiny and prints (several polka dot variations) clownesque & playful. The designers even came up with accessories, shoes and a few designs made out of plastic chains. There were fully printed looks, flirty asymmetrical dresses, patent leather coats, sheer pink pants and sporty mesh tops. Mix that all together and you’ve got yourself a fun selection of sixties inspired looks. Add a performance of Beth Ditto (singing from above the photographers’ pit) and it’s the ultimate Saturday afternoon entertainment. Optimism is the feeling Versus wants to spread for SS2013 so let’s keep that spirit!

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Tomas Maier  focused intenso on dresses and the silhouette for the Bottega Veneta ss2013-collection. The dresses had a strong Forties-vibe with slender shapes and without hard shoulders. Each design looked like a treasure found in a vintage shop, but without the dust. These dresses glanced back at the past, but the cuts were modern and the embroideries state-of-the-art.
It was the workmanship that made these dresses so special. Like a  dress collaged from two different flower prints, the bodice folded and pintucked and the seams, all of them, edged with glossy strips of snakeskin lined with matte bronze studs.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

A room painted with stripes and filled with large black balls set the mood today at Fendi. The clothes too were divided into different parts and color fields as they were brought together by blunt black detailing.

Designs looked strong and structured, yet Lagerfeld assured to add some femininity in the clothes. For instance by creating peplum pockets and highlighting the models’ waists.

Every single piece sent out on the runway was beautifully tailored and stiff materials gave the looks some extra prestige. Leather for summer will still be a hit next year, yet you could wonder if the fur was really necessary.

Besides gorgeous dresses and glamorous coats the accessories may not be left unspoken. Models walked on true statement shoes (in multiple shades, metallics, incl. spiked heels), which Bryanboy already described as ‘shoes of the season’. Plus Karl created a two for one bag; a large Fendi bag with a baguette attached to it.

A perfect shimmery finale, in which Joan Smalls lead a small disco ball pack, covered some extra party looks. One thing’s for certain: with a mix of so many attention grabbing pieces it will be hard to overlook the Fendi woman next spring.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

If you’re the outdoor party type of gal Versace is your way to go as soon as the festival season starts. For upcoming spring Donatella stepped away from her princess-y creations and went for a more careless approach. Models looked less perfect (and more fun) in her crinkled, slightly looser designs, which apparently got a ‘Tailoring with a lingerie edge’ touch.

Though thought was put into every detail models appeared more relaxed, in some kind of off duty mode. Just toss a boyfriend jacket on top of that nude shaded pastel bikini. Never mind if that shirt isn’t properly tucked in. And did one boob just pop out of that tiny slip dress? Oh well… why bother!

Tie dye prints, fringes and cross body shoulder bags completed Versace’s boho festival feeling. But don’t think Donatella let it all just hang loose. No chance she would be sending her runway strutters out without a flawless make-up, seductive long locks and high buckled up boots. Donatella maybe stepped out of her comfort zone, her finale of airy, high slit evening dresses was as glamorous as always.

 
 

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

After last season’s over the top bright colored metallic looks Anna Molinari took a few steps back with her upcoming spring collection. Yes, her girls still looked sexy. Yet this time it was much more subtle as clothes looked gorgeous enough to stand out without trying too hard.

Off shoulders tops, low V-necks, peek a boo sweaters, sheer dresses and cut-out jackets; there was quite a lot of skin at sight, but Molinari kept it modest. Sweet princess like shades followed each other in the ‘fairytale dream’ Blumarine created just for today.

Lace details, colored sequins and beaded fringes added some extra (as if there was not yet enough) girly-ness.

From Blumarine’s chunky sweaters to her silky pants and sporty parka’s; every piece in the collection got a touch of glamour. The kind of glamour that will have Molinari’s loyal fans running to the stores in February. ‘Cause it may be a less in your face collection; Blumarine’s customers will still love every bit of it.

 

 

 

Sportmax Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Just Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Roberto Cavalli took the sea as inspiration for the spring collection of Just Cavalli. The show opened with a white biker with “pearl”-studded sleeves. Short dresses were covered in sequins that looked like mermaid’s skin. And the handkerchief hems of chiffon slipdresses trailed like underwater plants.

The collection was ultimately classic Cavalli: the  jungle prints, the jaguar spots, the digital bougainvillea. Also the python, the slither of lace under the jacket, the blue majolica pattern duplicated in everything from tees to leggings, the distressed denim, and those sexy slipdresses.

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