Individuals by AMFI Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013

For the very first time Individuals by AMFI, a collection designed by student, will have the honor of opening Amsterdam Fashion Week. We caught up with Peter Leferink, Principal Design Lecturer at AMFI and creative Manager of Individuals, to talk about the design process, the collection and the success of Individuals.

About Inviduals
AMFI’s Individuals project is a 6 month minor that BA students at AMFI can take during their third or at the beginning of their fourth and final year. A total of around 24 – 30 students from the 3 different departments Fashion & Design, Fashion & Management and Fashion & Branding together design, produce and deliver to retail a collection for the school’s label Individuals.

Why is it important that Individuals gives a show during Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“First of all it is a big honor. For the students a show at the end of their period with Individuals. Those 12 minutes of fame are quite fundamental to the process. Showing in a professional environment like AFW gives the students such a boost. This year we were asked to open the fashion week, which is the ultimate moment and compliment. It means people take us seriously and appreciate what we do with our students. To me personally it means a lot. The fact that our show is held in the Gashouder is extra special too; when I graduated from the C Montaigne Academy in 1994 with a small group of students we rented the same Gashouder for our show. At that time we felt it was the coolest spot in Amsterdam, I believe we had to pay 400 Gulden for it. Being able to see our students shine there as well makes it very special.”

What is the most important aspect of holding a show?
“If you bring it down to the basics a show is a form of PR. You want to reach the press, the retailers and your audience. Yet as a school we believe there a more platforms on which you can show your collections and creativity. There is lots of new media via which you can reach your audience quickly and effectively. But, to be honest, for a lot of students a catwalkshow is the ultimate highlight; the spotlights, the people, the camera’s clicking and the feeling that comes with such a live event. It gives them such excitement, which is hard to match. Therefore I feel catwalkshows will always be there, even though lots of new platform (digital or non digital) will be introduced.”

How did it happen that Individuals is opening Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“We have been showing, with smaller and larger shows, during Amsterdam Fashion Week since the start. This definitely is the icing on the cake for AMFI and Individuals. Especially since around 800 extra young people, students and teachers will be able to see the show through live stream, thanks to Vodafone. I’m very excited how it will all turn out, but I am sure it will be a great happening.”

What part of the collection will eventually be sold?
“It’s hard to put that in percentages, since it depends on the styling of the show, which is planned for the second week of January. We always create Production Pieces, which retailers can buy and Unique Pieces (for the catwalk and photoshoots). Eventually the Production Pieces will be sold in a total of 10 boutiques ranging from high end casual to designer/luxury across the Netherlands.”

Is the collection sold in your own AMFI store as well?
“The Inviduals sales to retailers is organized via our By Amfi store. Every season we change the store in a way that it matches perfectly with the collection and invite our retailers there. After a period of about three weeks the store becomes a By Amfi store again; a very pleasant and dynamic collaboration.”

One of the design students spoke to us about inspiration, colors and materials

What was the inspiration for the upcoming collection?
“We were inspired by the current state of the world. We provide a contemporary solution for how to deal and live within it, partly inspired by Darwin’s theory of survival of the fittest. We draw the line. We tell the story of the Neo-Pioneer who dares to settle within the unsettled. For fall/winter 2013/2014 we’ve communicated it like this

A multitude of choices has resulted in an inability to move forward in the world. The time has come to confidently step forward and set the underlying tone for this generation. Armed with a desire for progress, we draw the line in order to create an enhanced state of protection. We attract because we dare. We survive because we protect. We are an energy to be reckoned with. We are the Neo-Pioneers and ELEMENT is the key to our survival. 

This collection boldly draws the line by settling within the unsettled. An action towards survival defined by a magnetic attraction of angular and curved shapes. A mix of unconventional fabrics sculpts this modern day armour. Each piece makes its own statement, building a positive tension thus, empowering the wearer. An air of artificiality emphasizes the evolution of crucial details in design.

What can we expect to see?
“We will see colours that are derived from a dark uniform palette. Think about a dark oil stain on a wet pavement. Furthermore we want to put the spotlight on the strong and the vulnerable parts of a woman in order to provide her the protection that she needs to face the world. As for the fit, think pronounced angular and curved shapes mixed with a touch of tailored design. We chose new materials that are more technological than we have ever used before. We also used leather and other materials that enhance protection and are key iNDiViDUALS materials are used in every collection.”

Individuals By AMFI will present their latest collection on Wednesday night, the 23rd of January at 07.00 P.M.

See our gallery below for some sneak peeks of the collection.

 

Elise Kim Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013

Elise Kim has had quite a few busy months. She has held a show in her hometown Saigon, has been making tailor made clothes for her clients and went out and about to meet new lots of new people. But she is now fully focused on her brand new fall winter collection, which she will show next week. It’s part of her trilogy of which we’ve already seen part one and part two and from what Elise has shown us so far it sure looks promising. Expect a chic, sexy collection, made with lots of handwork and a few very modern techniques as well. Oh and Elise is not only showing clothes this time around…

Why did you decide to show again during AFW?
“I chose to show at AFW because this collection is the third part of a trilogy and the first two parts I already showed at Amsterdam Fashion Week. It is nice to close my trilogy here at the Gashouder location at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. It is a nice exposure for my new collection and also for my clients and press to come and see the show. Recently I started to like to do fashion shows, it gives me such a kick.”

Does the third part of your trilogy have as much handwork as the second part?
“Although I still have handwork in this collection, it is much less compared to the last collection. Handwork is part of who I am, I really like doing that. When I have a lot of stress it is my meditation doing handwork.”

Do you get help creating your designs?
“I work together with 2 seamstresses. Recently, an intern joined us, she helps with some small things and the handwork. I’m really picky with choosing interns, if I don’t have a click with someone, it’s very difficult to work together. It would block my creativity, then I’d rather work on my own. Since the team is so small, I personally cut all the fabrics myself and prepare all the work so that the seamstress can put together the clothes as fast as possible.”

What was your inspiration for the new collection?
“This collection is inspired by a darker dream when one is in a deep sleep, but sometimes wakes up from seeing bizarre images or gets lost in another world. Once I read a short story and I was inspired by this sentence: Night is strange, night is surreal. Night is when you dream, and not because you are asleep.”

How is that darker dream visible in your f/w2013 designs?
“It’s a collection with lots of black, cobalt blue and some bright colors (reddish orange, orange and fuchsia) every now and then. It was also in the weirdest dream I saw while making this collection; I saw accent colors, sparkling in the deepest night. You can see dark clothing pieces with bright embroideries or embellishments.”

What else can we expect?
“I’ve fallen in love again with leather, there are also different kinds of wool, silk and cotton. Besides the materials we used different kind of techniques, such as laser-cut, embroidery and beading. I will show a total of 28 looks: 45 pieces of clothing. For this collection we also have shoes and bags, in collaboration with Jarah Stoop and Jelske Peterson.”

How would you describe the collection?
“Every collection reflects how I feel at the moment. This is a different collection, but it is still Elise Kim’s style. The graphic, feminine, edgy elements and the use of embroidery and handwork are all there. The Elise Kim woman is growing up, she’s sexier and mysterious, yet still my designs are very chic and wearable.”

Elise Kim will present her new collection on Saturday 26 January at 09.00 p.m.

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Paris SS2013

Iris van Herpen is working on her very first ready to wear collection as we speak. Yet she didn’t let that exciting new project get in the way of delivering a picture perfect couture collection in Paris this week. With her fourth couture show Iris showed a small selection of dresses inspired by the unpredictable aspect of lightning. Starshaped twizzling energy points, made with the use of a 3D printer, translated the lightning in her designs, which breathed originality, craftsmanship and a progressive fashion attitude.

 

Dior Haute Couture Paris SS2013

For spring Raf Simons said he “didn’t want to do a heavy concept, hence the idea of the garden, flowers, spring and the evolution of that.” So he presented us with a tent full of green hedges and the freshest looking models. Sporting chic red lips and slightly wet locks the Dior ladies appeared in a series of designs in the most unexpected shades. Burgundy, deep green, yellow and back were mixed with shades of neon, nude and soft pink. Strapless dresses were fairytale like, cigarette pants refreshingly chic and a floor sweeping skirt and top were both modern and timeless. We still have to get used to the bright colored tights, but as we saw during last night’s ELLE STYLE AWARDS this trend is picked up pret-ty quickly.

Thom Browne Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

While blindfolded models hammering on a wooden construction formed the backdrop of Thom Browne’s fashion show, his walking models appeared from behind. The fact that they wore checked skirts and dress like designs could have been enough to keep us press interested. Yet Browne added an extra dimension to his looks, making them unique yet unwearable. His grey flannel suits, his cross printed vest, his checked pants and illusionist coat; they were all done in a boxy style. The effect of the square fits and the super stiff shoulders was even amplified by his square hats, rectangular sunglasses and geometric suitcases. Let’s hope Browne hat some real boxes hidden underneath his designs, so that when he removes those, he can actually sell some of these fall/winter creations.

Versace Haute Couture Paris SS2013

Perhaps Donatella’s neon pink and yellow, gold and black looks breathed MTV Awards more than Oscars or Grammy’s. The dresses might be a little too bright and short for a haute couture show. Yet nowadays anything can be a red carpet look and there’s always some attention seeking celebrity (or their stylists fort hat matter) enthusiastic enough to pull this off. No Angelina Jolie, Keira Knightley or Penelope Cruz perhaps, but we can totally see youngsters (and long term clients; smart thinking Donatella) Nicki Minaj, Selena Gomez of Kirstin Stewart sporting one of these upbeat sexy creations. They’ll stand out from the crowd and with the 24-karat detailing still have everyone gushing.

Paul Smith Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Who says fall collections have to be all about brown, grey and black? Paul Smith proved even prints and bright colors fit perfectly for an autumn collection. He showed suits in shades of mustard, red, flamingo pink and turquoise. Pairing a red pair of pants with a mustard jacket and combining different shades of blue in one office look. He introduced multiple colored houndstooth sweaters, a single Mondrian inspired creation and psychedelic prints popped up on a shirt and a winter coat. Models looked both confident and comfortable in the perfectly cut menswear designs. Sir Paul Smith’s ever growing Asian fan base won’t be disappointed and neither are we.

Saint Laurent Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Skinny jeans, checked shirts, leather jackets and long striped scarves; Saint Laurent’s man is a grungy kind of guy for 2013. Jeans had multiple rips and the layering appeared careless on purpose. Hedi Slimane focused on how accessible his designs can be. So accessible both men and women should be able to pull them off (he proved by sending androgynous – real musician – models down the runway). It felt good to see menswear can be more than endless series of checked suits. Yet Slimane’s free spirited, punk creations perhaps could have been a little more original.

Sjaak Hullekes Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview FW2013

We’ve seen the sensitive side of Sjaak Hullekes so many times, but for fall/winter 2013 it’s time for something different. The talented menswear designer will present a collection of edgy and tough work wear, simply because he felt like it. We spoke to Sjaak about his inspiration for upcoming winter and more…

Why is it important for you to present your designs during Amsterdam Fashion Week?
“I feel AFW is becoming a more realistic platform to present my work to press and buyers every year. After last season’s show I had five new selling points for Sjaak Hullekes. That is great immediate result. Since the show area has changed (around 1250 people can fit into the new location) the prices have gone up. It is thanks to the sponsors I can present my collection.”

What can you tell us about ‘the new Sjaak Hullekes’?
“The new Sjaak Hullekes is tougher, less colorful and more balanced. His style is a mix of sporty, casual and formal clothing. I opted for this new, slightly more edgy collection, because I personally had the need for it. I felt like I was missing that part of menswear.”

What did you use as your source of inspiration?
“I have been looking at the working class of the eighties. I thought of factories that closed, people together is small buses, some sort of group spirit. It made me play with work wear and it leaded to the collection being very dark, even though I always claimed I would never use black.”

This year you’ve launched your own perfume and underwear line. Are you planning on adding any other new line to the Sjaak Hullekes collection?
“I am not planning on showing new things like that during the show, yet I would love to add my own leather and knits. In this collection you will see knits, but they’re produced by a group of 20 Portuguese ladies. They are creating sweaters, scarfs and accessories for the show. The collection will have texture, it will have more body, but it will still be refined thanks to this kind of hand work. This upcoming season my man may look more tough, the sensitive Sjaak is still there.”

Sjaak Hullekes will present his new menswear collection for fall/winter 2013 on Friday 25 January on 03.00 P.M.

 

Lanvin Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver looked for contrast in their latest fall winter collections. Their guys wore ultra thin ties tucked in their pants as well as oversize woolen coats. Their turtlenecks in many shades, shiny shirts and footwear were just as strong statement pieces. A few quilted leather pieces were quite the opposite of the pair of sheer colored blouses towards the end of the collection. And an oversize T-shirt and a pair of slim pants formed an odd, yet good looking combination. Shades of red and blue were strangely mixed in with the typical winter color palette of blacks, whites and greys. The designer duo tried lots of new things. Some more powerful than others, but lots to think about nevertheless.

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