Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Known for her sweet, soft and girly designs Anna Molinari did not disappoint on Friday. Pastel shades sweaters, coats and (unflattering) pleated pants opened the Blumarine show. Knitted hot pants were mixed with fur-like coats in the same shade as the nude colored footwear seemed to almost be one with the models’ feet. A menswear inspired section in the middle of the show (with a tweed cape, hounds tooth printed fur and a checked suit with statement shoulders) woke everyone in the audience up, before continuing with baby blues and vale pinks. Classic Voluminous shirts with bow details and ruffled skirts were right up on Molinari’s alley. As a few sheer T-shirt dresses and pleated short skirts added a welcome young touch to the collection.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Film Noir

Where fashion is more and more about garments and less about obvious trends that break with previous seasons, here we DO have a trend. It is back to the 40’s with a Film Noir twist. Not that we haven’t been there before. But here it is invigorated with a refreshing raw edge. Refined and elegant, sexy as well as romantic, revealing bits of darkness and gloom.

Miuccia Prada launched her exercise in fashion as cinema. She stages stories of woman and life. ‘Who cares about the dress?’ was her genius quote on Style.com. That is such a meaningful sentence. It is the emotion surrounding the garments that counts and nothing can light up the fire as powerful music and a filmic set.

Nevertheless this was all about lovely lean tailoring, extremely luxurious in desirable fabrics. Beautiful garments as cabans, peplum jackets and hourglass dresses with exaggerated hips. Tailleurs, fishnets and gloves to match with long curvaceous skirts.

Prada referenced Film Noir. She staged the obsessions and passions she shares with both David Lynch and Alfred Hitchcock.

Gucci was darker; adding austerity, vigor and fetish. An ode to craft, embellishing power women and femmes fatales. Dsquared² dived deep into the 40’s with curvy skirt suits and shapely double-breasted jackets. All very costumy and posed.

Let’s make movies!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Dsquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Dan and Dean Caten took us back to the 1940s with a muscular Karmen Pedaru opening their menswear inspired show. Her hairy evening gown (which caused for a nipple slip to happen) was followed by line up of double breasted suits and high hats. Tight skirts, accentuated waists, fur details, chunky jewelry and rich colors really brought the forties back to life. Beautiful tailored coats and wide legged pants were some of the best pieces. Touches of metallic added that modern touch. Leave out the crazy hats and the rest of the excessively used accessories and you’ve got yourself a perfectly wearable jazz-inspired fall collection.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Wet hair, bare shoulders, a subtle cleavage and cool sunnies; Prada’s girls, who appeared from a mysterious shadowy backdrop (with birds and a cat), looked quite sensual today. Yet at the same time their looks breathed old school glamour and raw elegance. The girls sported tweed dresses thrown over long sleeve tops, oversize bags, bold shoes and ladylike coats with accentuated waists and statement making dimpled fur cuffs. There were checks and stripes; continuing the current graphic trend.
Though given a modern twist the looks has a cinematic forties vibe. Deep winter shades were put in the mix with light pastels. No combination we would soon leave the house in, but after tonight it might just become our most favourite colour match.
And that is in fact Miuccia’s power; she can present new, unexpected, slightly off styles you would never come up with or even hate at first sight and turn them into the most desirable looks for the upcoming season within a few months. Right on time, before we start shopping for our new wardrobe.

Just Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Today’s Just Cavalli show was filled with the most beautiful ethnic prints. Inspired by Roberto and Eva Cavalli’s trip to Bhutan they covered plants and special buildings. They appeared on completely printed looks; blouses, pants, ultra short dresses and even evening gowns.
Now don’t think they forgot about the animal prints; there was still a large enough dose of tiger stripes, leopard spots and snake patterns. On the lining of a coat, pants, dresses and as a detail part of one of the lively prints.
Yet apart from all those prints and all that color the most interesting part about Just Cavalli today was that is was not just sexy. Yes there were some figure hugging dresses, but the thick sweaters (even with turtle neck and a high white collar), wide tees and structured coats felt the most surprising and refreshing. They still were very Cavalli, but the designers definitely took a risk here.
We encourage them to be risky more often, ‘cause we really liked what we saw today.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Alexa Chung was the muse for Anna Molinari’s Blugirl collection, the younger line of Blumarine. The British ‘It’ girl sees fashion in a cool and youthful way, and the first few schoolgirl looks made that point. Leopard-patterned furry coats added a rebel touch.

 

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Roomy, bathrobelike toppers in thick fabrics were the key-items of Max Mara’s collection, along with loose pants that fell over brown-and-mustard sneakers. The Max Mara design team took a little inspiration from Bauhaus and stuck to a basic palette of camel, gray, black and dark blue, keeping the focus on shapes, and outerwear. Rounded shoulders were sometimes accentuated with leather patches.

 

No 21 Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s fall collection for No. 21 was inspired by Nineties grunge. The designer fused British influences with a dose of Italian glamor, making for a study in contrasts. There was also Dell’Acqua’s signature masculine-feminine aesthetic including rockabilly drainpipe pants — cropped to show off Michael Jackson-style crystal-studded socks — and cocoon coats.

 

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