Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons keeps on pushing the color-theme at Jil Sander. After two strong, minimalistic springcollections for him and her where he surprised the in all black dressed fashioncrowd with vivid colors and white T-shirts, his winter 2011 collection seems more in balance. He started with a dark suit, which actually was a mix of purple and black, combined with a shirt and sweater. But soon the colors changed into yellow, white, pink, orange and electric blue for total outfits and subtler mixes.

Simons replaced the mens shirt by T-shirts in shiny, bubbly fabrics and presented them in layers which added more volume and a fresh, modern touch to the minimal style.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

After a few strong menswear-seasons with the focus at Italian sartorial craftmanschip, Dolce & Gabbana moved on. They looked at Britain and 80’s style-icon Bryan Ferry, who’s slick style of shiny suits inspired a whole generation of young men back then. I guess Bryan Ferry was happy he grew out of that 80’s style of short, slightly squared jackets, wide lapels and tapered pants while watching the show in a slim suit and accompanied by two of his sons (who looked very smart too). It’s a big step from the handsome and streamlined Italian style we’re used to see at Dolce & Gabbana.

But maybe it’s just a matter of time. The look must seem bright new to a younger generation fed up with skinny pants and jackets. The new silhouette is more square and non fitted, jackets are much shorter and pants got low crotches. For the streetwise styling the designduo looked at British ska’s, with their hats, black and white, suspenders, short pants and shoes. The formal suit was mixed, a jacket with jeans, the pants with striped sweater, velvet with denim, faux fur with wool, pinstripes with pied de poule. There was even a hint of color next to the black and grey, red and bordeaux played a major role. The collection deserved the name Eccentric Tailoring –  only for those who dare.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Costume National’s designer Ennio Capasa tried to mix traditional tailoring and fabric/construction research with a rebellious core. The result was less surprising as it sounds, because this is what he does every season. Experimenting with clean cuts, jackets without seams assembled by laser technique and a synthesis between formal and sportswear. Of course in signature black, with hints of res, royal blue, dark green and salmon for sweaters in soft mohair.

What I liked the most were the coats and jackets made of wool with leather sleeves, or made of fabric with knitted sleeves. But in the end it was a reset of ideas. Daring was a knitted tuxedo. And this season Capasa finally got rid of all the wite shirts and ties. In the name of a creative rebellion.

Ermenegildo Zegna Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

In a watery cold Milan the menswear fashionweek(end) took off with two classics: Corneliani and Ermenegildo Zegna. The design-team at Zegna seemed captured by China and mixed oriental themes with a more classic tailoring. Business suits had a sporty attitude thanks to the use of tweed-effects and utility touches. The silhouette was defined by straight shouldered three-button suits and jackets, as well as streamlined high-cuff trousers. The touch of China was visible in high collared Mao-jackets, bamboo-green, reds and shiny silk fabrics with a vintage patina. There was a slightly military touch to it thanks to army-belts, little leather pockets, combat-type boots and big shearling coats.

Item of the season will be the iPad-cases, as a sleeve or a shoulderbag. Almost every label is presenting one or more models in their collection.

It was a Live D fashion show, created in collaboration with director James Lima – who was a visual consultant on the film Avatar. Backstage models were filmed in the ‘Green Room’ using cutting edge filmtechnology. Front of house the images were projected on a giant screen in real time against a filmed backround, coinciding with the models arriving on the runway. The show unfolded both live and on screen  – as if the models were walking off the screen into the real dimension.

ELLE Style Awards 2011 – Arrivals

The dresscode of this year’s ELLE Style Awards was Rock ‘n Royalty. And since the best dressed person of the evening could win an award everyone really put an effort into looking exquisite. As you would expect we saw many leather pants and leggings, a lot of tiara’s and crowns, many sequined looks and of course some lace.

If you were there Thursday night, check out our gallery and see if your picture is in it! If you didn’t attend the party, just check out how great everyone else looked!

Chanel ‘s spring/summer 2011 collection

Bonne Reijn wins ELLE H&M Stylist Award 2011

Ellis & Thijs Faas win the Queen and King of the Ball Award

On Thursday night (13 January) Dutch magazine ELLE held it’s yearly award show the ELLE Style Awards. In the amazing building of the municipal theater of Amsterdam the Dutch fashion scene gathered to look at the work of three young stylists.

One of them, Bonne Reijn, received the ELLE H&M Stylist award. Yet there was also an award for the best dressed person of the evening, the so called Belle of the Ball. This year that price went to a couple: Ellis Faas and her brother Thijs Faas made an incredible impression with their Rock ‘n Royalty outfits.

Halina Reijn wins ELLE Personal Style Award 2011

Ilja Visser Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW2012

This week Dutch designer Ilja Visser presented her new collection in a very special way. She invited everyone to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, a museum which is currently under construction. There a guide gave all the guests (who head to wear protection helmets and bright colored jackets for safety) a small tour through the museum explaining how Pierre Cuypers built the Rijksmuseum in 1885.

After that tour the show started in one of the big area’s in the Rijksmuseum. A violist filled the room with beautiful music and the first models appeared. They wore structural clothes in many different natural shades, all inspired by the work of Pierre Cuypers.

The official catwalk images will be posted on our blog soon. For now check the picture gallery above.

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