Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

It seemed a never ending collection that Dolce & Gabbana sent out this afternoon. A collection that captured Italy’s love for drama and opera. Pavarotti was on the soundtrack singing O sole mio and out came the models dressed in baroque black velvet and gold brocade, covered with dramatic capes, dresses embroidered with images of painted old theater-ceilings. Even the earrings looked like little cherubs and shoes reminded of theater furniture and decorations.

The press release said the starting-point was the tradition of Sicilian Baroque, which evolved in volumes and processes, experimenting in new cuts and decorations: golden embroideries that recall Baroque mirrors and frames or embroideries made of small points inspired by dining room tapestries; prints of cherubs and angels that appear to have come out of a painting.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

Long, lean silhouettes determined the Missoni fall/winter collection we saw today. And while the looks were very feminine, Angela Missoni added a fresh touch of grunge to her outfits. It was visible through the hair (divided into three parts), the eye catching jewellery (large earrings – in one ear – brooches and matching waist belts) and the odd styling (wrongly buttoned vests).

The new look for fall was also dictated by patchwork details (we saw earlier this week) which combined knits with fur. Presented in shades ranging from faded pastels tot seventies shades to different grey and turquoise tones it made up for a graceful collection.

Skirts and dresses below the knee were combined with body wrap tops and long leather gloves. The label’s signature zigzag print had made way for lines, stain-like prints and graphical patterns.

Angela showed a fresh, young collection and clearly tried to do something different this time. And well.., we think she succeeded.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2012: Sharp & Graphic

Pleasure and having a good time was the lead team for some of the designers in Milan this week. It translated itself in a series of glorious graphics and optimistic vibrancy. All had their reasons to come up with the full dose of color, black and white contrast and sharp metallics. The mood ranged from Rock Chick rebellion to retro reminiscence and faint memories of Robocop and Blade runner. Clearly this was not just about having fun. It was serious couture craftsmanship and a minute interest in shape and detail. We saw geometric print, graphic straight-line cutting and embellishment. Next to positively shining metallics, iridescence, shining foils, plasticised embroideries and holographic surfaces.

At Prada the pants made the story, but it was the embroidery in all its glassy glamor that brought an extra dimension to this powerful show, Versace showed some robotic retro futurism, where Moschino threw a parade with cheerleader skirts and uniform jackets, Prada again played with daring color harmonies in optical patterns and Blumarine staged (as well as Fendi) funkiest and artistic furs painted in more than bright colors.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Peter Dundas, the British designer working for Emilio Pucci, surprised the audience with a complete different collection – far from Pucci heritage of paisley swirls and moving prints. He took his own wardrobe as a starting point. So masculine tailoring and fabrics dominated, as did black, and a minimalist hugging silhouette. The focus was at tight dresses with sexy splits and slits revealing slices of sheer, he also used velvet prints at sheer fabrics. Later the same idea got more bejeweled. For evening Dundas suggested beside the sexy dresses classic tuxedos, or tuxedo-elements.

Milan streetfashion video fall winter 2012 season

Take a sneak peak on the streets of Milan and watch the fashionable people around the shows of fashion week.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2012: Dark Vision

Beauty and confidence are what designers wish for their models to spread in Milan.  ‘Importance’ being a more significant message for women then mere ‘power’ as Miuccia Prada stated. And that is what we recognize. Dark glamor in various signatures ranging from soft ‘Goth’ to dark romance and reminiscent opulence. The future is taking refuge in the past and historical icons are wonderfully mutated in futuristic executions. The mood is stern yet the detailing rich and affluent. The spirit dark but generating pleasure rather then gloom. Love for materials is translated into embroidered and bejeweled aspects, laser cut lace effects and lots leather and lush velvets.

Prada shows virtual princes, avatars of fashions digital age – where Etro frames its iconic patterns in androgynous sculptural tailoring, Versace taps into a more sacral and medieval inspiration adding armors, chain-mail and crucifixes. Gucci mutates menswear into fluid classical drama with a smooth pre-Raphaelite twist.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

Control and precision; grace that is dry, assertive, with a hint of tension. An idea of graphic composition permeates the Marni collection for fall 2012: pure lines, decisive volumes. As if obeying to a precise layering plan, outfits have a constructivist feel with a sleek outlook and a tactile intensity.
The silhouette is neat and precise, to-the-knee, with a dropped waist. There’s an idea of clothing as a soft, architectural element. Exact capes create a firm halo around the body. Decoration turns into construction, playing with the weight of surfaces.  An air of grace and rigor runs through: the neck is always covered. Prints are used as an accent: a single outsized flower, papiro jacquards and brocades.
The palette has notes of butter, crimson red, clear blue with touches of pink, blush, tan and broken with notes of black, tobacco and saffron. Fabrics have a compact hand: silk wool double-face, lurex jacquard, wool crepe. Exaggerated, oversized patent leather and snakeskin add weight and presence.

Antonio Marras Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Inspired by singer Milly, a singer who was a living metaphor for Milan in the 20th century (and the lover of the king of Italy), Antonio Marras presented a stunning series of fall/winter clothing.

His pieces were detailed and romantic. Worn on the runway they were like little pieces of art translated into contemporary womenswear.

Marras’ designs represented Milly’s souvenirs from all the places she had been and all the men she had loved. And without knowing what those might have been, you could see the clothes were telling a story.

Gorgeous tweeds (perhaps from a coat of one of Milly’s lovers?), English walpaper florals (from one of the rooms she may have slept in), embroidered fall leaves (which might once have decorated a skirt or dress) and richcolored slightly graphic  patterns (origanited from an old tapestry?) together formed a rich and classy mix.

Used on structured coats, pencils skirts and blouses with pointed collars they made the young models look like graceful, elegant ladies. Ladies with an exquisite, original taste of fashion that is. And though the designs might have had a classic forties touch to them; every single one of the looks will easily create a wow-moment seventy years later, in winter 2012/2013.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Sportmax Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

An old skool hip hop mix of Busta Rhymes tunes and Missy Eliot raps awaited us at Sportmax this afternoon. An up beat vibe to emphasis the youthfulness of this sporty collection.

Structured looks made out of technical materials breathed an urban style. 3D materials created a beautiful graphic silhouette, while zipper details and athletic lines accentuated the sporty touch.

Quiltd Nylon, padded embroideries and techno-matelasse might not be the most feminine materials for a womenswear collection. Yet thanks to the use of micro sequins, metallic snaps and decorative jacquards the looks were still graceful and classy.

With sport details being a huge trend this collection will be a definite hit. Especially the deep purple designs, introduced at the end of the show, are bound to be the best selling pieces for upcoming fall.

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