Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The die-hard fashionpack already knew where Thom Browne was capable of. They’ve seen his shows from New York, for the Italian Moncler-label in Milan and his presentation at Firenze a few years ago. Browne’s shows are set up like a military operation, a huge set, models acting as a group on stage and all dressed alike.

So the set of of his first menswearshow in Paris was not surprising, but still overwhelming. The location was a large conference room at the official headquarters of the French Communist Party in Paris, designed by Oscar Niemeyer. The audience had to sit behinds the desks where party-members used to sit an debate about the cold war. As an American in Paris, the choice for the venue was – well – daring. Also because Browne kept pointing at historical ‘fights’ between the USA and USSR. For example the army of astronauts which opened the show by marching into the room. The models were hidden in the space-suits, and they all stepped out  at the same time dressed identically.

Their dress-code was boyish, and typical Thom Browne: a tight jacket with shorts, socks and brogues. They came in checks, blue, black, khaki, stripes or decorated with little bows, some had a flash of sequins. Eye-catching were the knee-high socks, the gold-frosted lips and the gold-colored mirroring sunglasses. Browne made himself clear.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2011 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Paris.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

No matter what the Lanvin man is doing – working, hiking, travelling, dating – you name it – he looks stylish and chic. But very low profile. “It’s active clothing in a sartorial environment, but not sportswear,” said Ossendrijver in an interview. “Everything is in movement – almost aerodynamic.”

The show started with slim fitted, tailored jackets with visible seams. The fabrics looked light and modern in one way but also used and almost antique the other way. Like the jackets in a reworked and remixed tapestry-print. There were lots of knitted stuff, very thin, sometimes sheer – like biker shorts, tank tops and leggings. New were the sneaker/sandal hybrids.

It was the mix of rich fabrics and sport-references that made this collection very contemporary and wearable The accessories just added the right dose of artsy stuff as did some colors like blue, yellow and red.

Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Even for fashionista’s it’s a hot day today. So at Paul Smith the fashion crowd waiting for the show got handed out free magnums! A nice gesture and a perfect way to set the mood right for the show.

A graphic planetarium print formed the background of the catwalk show. Long haired models came on stage as the show started. Their clothing style resembled that of a rock star. Their wardrobe existed of pants with small legs and shirts with busy cosmos prints. Their shirts were loose and were combined with suit jackets or leather jackets. Some of the endings of the shirt’s collars could be tied into a bow.

Unlike we’re used to at Paul Smith the prints didn’t have bright colors. In stead they were a mix of pastels and other faded shades. The tight pants had tiny stars on them. The items without prints were all beige, denim blue, red, black or deep blue.

The styling of the show looked great and was a perfect way for Paul Smith to show off some stuff from his other lines: accessories and shoes. He did a great job, cause the round hats, necklaces, sunglasses, leather bags, backpacks and ankle-boots worked very well together.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The Hermès show was as quiet and luxurious as the label can be. It just simply doesn’t need to scream fashion. It whispers. But when you listen carefully it tells you all everything you should know about next season’s way of dressing: the white suits, the lightweight fabrics, the shorts, the honey-colors,  the sandals, the summer-leather and suede and an accent in an intense color. The modern touch was added by ‘hybrid’ clothing: a shirt with a blouson back or diagonal zip-closure.

Jackets were unlined, scarves were knotted around the neck and the pleated trousers looks casual but dressed. Tobacco brown and emerald-green spiced up the mineral-base palette.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2011 Day 3

Which sunglasses are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Summer has finally arrived in Paris. So get out your vintage  Ray Ban, your latest Prada or even  your goggles!? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. We met Karl Lagerfeld at the streets of Paris outside Dior yesterday. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Paris.

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Get ready! Flared pants are back in fashion!

At least that’s what Raf Simons told us today at his show, with which he celebrated fifteenyears of fashion. Yet unlike the hippie flared models we’ve seen in fashion before, today’s flared pants were rather sophisticated. Combined with sleeveless blouses, waistcoats and ties they didn’t look so bad after all.  Simons shorts on the contrary were too tight and almost looked like leggings.

A clean white trenchcoat looked very stylish, as did the white blouses that followed. The many white looks were there for a reason; the collection was all about gender, sex, and sterility. So we saw many white, clinical looks and only a few collars.

‘Symbolic, emotional, extreme’, was how Simons described his collection. He emphasized the zippers of the outfits; they were highlighted through their colors: green, pink and orange and had bit zip pulls. A lot of them were placed on the back of the tops.

Apart from the wide legged trousers Raf Simons is your to-go-to man when it comes to perfectly tailored suits as well. A bunch of waisted black and navy suits formed a great ending of the show.

Now let’s wait and see how long it will take before the flared pants trend is picked up by the people.

 

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

At Kenzo, which celebrated fourty years of fashion, the models first appeared on a balcony, then came down the stairs and entered the runway. Their outfits were all about stains, stripes and checks.

The stains seemed like ink or coffee stains dispersed all over the guy’s suits. The blue and white Breton stripes were used in some double breasted jackets and sweaters.

We also saw the blue and white in several other looks, every now and then alternated by red items. Most suits seemed comfortable and in some way resembled overalls. Between all the suits some cute knitwear came by. And between all the male models there were some feminine models too.

The colors of the show were mainly white, dark blue, beige and grey. The touch of summer was added by bright green, pink, red and blue.

Kenzo’s jackets (with lots of pockets, zips and other details) stood out the most. And we definitely saw some good accessories (berets, glasses and bags) as well. Let’s just hope Antonio Marras will be a little bit more careful with his pencils and his drinks when he’s producing his next collection. Cause the stains didn’t really work for us.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Kris van Assche seems capable of letting his severe, sartorial look go en soften it with lightweight and youthful tailoring. ‘Simplicity is the true luxury’, according to the designer. And so he presented sleeveless trenchcoats, lightweight linen parkas and paper-light jackets. Black, gray and sandywhite were his main colors. Low-slung trousers were tucked into sandals.

To add a different touch to his simplicity Van Assche used samurai references, like Mao-collars or V-shaped necklines similar to kimonos. Some tops reminded of Hedi Slimane’s first collection for Dior, with the sleeveless faux-wrap shirts. Those were wonderful and new and they still seem appropriate in their renewed version.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS201 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Paris.

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