Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

On a bright yellow catwalk Sonia Rykiel’s models appeared in looks more subtle than in the past few collection. It started with creamcolored skirts, knitted tops and dresses, which all had a black strip attached to them. They were followed by some lace items (a suit, a pair of pants). Then some pops of yellow, nude, orange and ochre came on. All pretty and perfect for spring.

The collection was mostly the work of her daughther Nathalie and the new creative director April Chrichton, but Sonia made damn sure her signature look was portrayed. The Sonia style was visible in the knitwear, the stripes and the choice of color. So nothing to unexpected, but just the right amount of change to make women hit the stores again.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Leave it up to Viktor and Rolf to set up an incredible stage act. This Saturday their show in Paris was opened by French duo ‘Brigitte’, who performed throughout the whole collection. But instead of them standing on the catwalk, they were high above it in long, colorful pleated dresses, from under which the models appeared.

It was a sweet sight and the models in their candy colored (peach, pink, coral, blue) outfits made it even more sweet. They looked like real life dolls/Barbies (incl. fake pink eyelashes) in their ultra-feminine pieces.

Summer dresses, long shorts, halter tops, trench coats and evening gowns all appeared with larger than life details on them. Like the enormous stitching details, which were used on every look, the enormous sequins, the enlarged buttons and the wave-shaped appliqués.

Feminine fabrics like duchesse satin, silk gazar and tulle plus the use of colored Swarosvki crystals added up to the glamorous looks of the girls.

For a sweet, fun & flirty summer 2012, or an extravagant performance-look (we’re talking to you Gaga, Rihanna and Katy) Viktor and Rolf are you’re guys!

Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

With their hair blown fully in their face Margiela models strutted the catwalk in some unconventional long and lean looks. One dresses was made without straps, so the model herself hat to hold it up. Others were held together by Velcro and countless zippers. There were girls walking around with the plastic clothing bag over their outfit. And nude colored tops made it look as if the models were really naked underneath their black jackets.

Yet as bizarre as it all looked on the runway, there were some good ideas their. Those maxi leather skirts might just become a hit and short sleeved tuxedo dress could be kinda cool as well. If only things were brought to a more normal proportion this collection would be an instant hit.

Viktor & Rolf catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The opening of the Viktor & Rolf show, today at the Jardin de Tuileries in Paris. The two French singers The Brigittes performed during the show in a gigantic tulle skirt.

 

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Haider Ackermann proved once again he’s a true master in choosing strong, bold colors, picking luxurious fabrics and mix this  into a graceful, powerful an dazzling collection. His ss2012-collection is about ‘rockabilly barons’ and – so it seemed – his own personal style in an exaggerated way, looking at the and the wide drop-crotch pants that tapered.

The cut was that of traditional menswear, but the fabrics were not. Thick silk and brocades came in beautiful colors, like deep purple, crystal blue and magenta. The lacing in gold and silver gave it an iridescent glow. Sheer silk, used for draped veils and skirts added drama while paisleys and madras added a touch of ethnic.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Our review will follow shortly

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

You need a genius designer like Alber Elbaz to transform the cut of a jogging suit into a powerful chic womenswear-collection. And so he did for Lanvin ss2012. On the runway appeared T-shirts, pencil skirts and loose shirtdresses,  stripped-down but powerful chic. Elbaz adopted the idea of comfy separates and sportiness for this collection. And how! Track pants ( with side stripes), were anything but casual with sexy slits. A white T-shirt had special, structured sleeves. And the stretch scuba material typical of athletic wear was transformed into tight skirts.

There was a definite Eighties vibe to this glamorous streetwear, not in the least because of the mega jewels — crystal crosses and gold chokers.  Some suits were done in green and black snake prints, which, in combination with the soft pleated dresses held with safety pins, reminded of  vintage Versace.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear ss2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during this fashionweek? Your Gucci-shoes, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Givenchy? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

 

First View Paris ss2012: Poetic Vision

Viewing the first Paris collections immediately made clear that 50’s Retro, Tropicana and Crafts are definitely on trend, worldwide.

But here we want to highlight a different mood. A lovely tale of heroines travelling the world, picking up inspirations, connecting and merging the east and the west and marrying these influences in lovely, narrative and poetic stories.

The spirit is romantic, exquisitely elegant and fuelled with craftsmanship in tailoring, embellishment, pattern as well as cut. Some glowful decadence in androgynous looks with a daring sensual twist. Shades of China show in dangling tassels, kimono-like wraps, north-African caftans and western suiting. Manipulated city- and landscapes in photo print as well as historical engravings of gardens of Eden.

Ann Demeulemeester goes sensual and combines fluid flared skirts and dresses with elongated suit coats. Severe black suiting with barely-there veils and free flowing fringes. Dries van Noten adds ruffles and ruches to pure, stern silhouettes and narrative prints to bold black and white. Rick Owens adds roundness and softness to column-like contours. Each of them envisioning a positive future. To speak with Owens: a gateway to heaven.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetwear Paris SS12 Part 1

An impression of streetwear outside the fashion shows in Paris.

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