Streetfashion Milan Menswear FW 2011 day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Dolce & Gabbana-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

For fall/winter Roberto Cavalli presented his new collection, called Groovy Mood. It sure was groovy and had the seventies (a popular inspiration in womenswear at the moment too) written all over it. Male models wore tight jackets combined with slightly flared pants in shades like rust, red, camel and brown. They had small scarves tied around their neck and their boots were kinda pointy.

Besides the suits Cavalli also introduced some shearling, suede, fur (which looked a little too pimpy) and oversized knitted ponchos, which not every men will be able to pull of. Therefore we doubt if the collection is going to be a huge success. Yet is sure was fun to watch!

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The Missoni-collection was a small, capsule like collection of slim fitted  layered knits. Knitted jackets, pants, sweaters and cardigans in the signature Missoni colors and patterns.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

At Salvatore Ferragamo the seventies played a part in styling, from the big coats and bohemian layers ’till the turtlenecks and suede shirts with laced up closures. The Doors’ Riders on the Storm and Lou Reed were on the soundtrack and added that extra atmosphere to the presentation.

Color also played a major part in this collection and ran from off white and beige to red, bordeaux, blue and petrol. Different textures were mixed, and hats (the accessory of this season) and big scarves were added. The overall silhouette was fitted, with slim jackets, straight pants, simple knits and suede shirts.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The collection Emporio Armani sent out this morning had an industrial theme, with lots of long coats, black and greys and a mix of fabrics and textures.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The Bottega Veneta collection was a relaxed mix of formal and informal wear, with cozy knits, wrinkled and washed fabrics, layers and color. Besides black and grey, Tomas Maier spoiled his customers with red, mustard-yellow, green and blue. Just what a man needs during the day.

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Why does a Burberry-show always make me cry? Most of the time it’s because of the sensitive soundtrack, the melancholy that drips from songs like Bang Bang sung by Cliff Richard or You don’t have to say I love you by Dusty Springfield. I know, It sounds silly but when I hear those songs and I see a good collection I cannot stop myself from swallowing those tears.  And this was a great collection totally focused at coats. Christopher Bialey went away from the militairy stuff he did send out a few seasons now and went for a more colorful and normal, daily theme like the British weather.

“We British, we are obsessed by the weather, and I wanted to explore that, and to celebrate the coat,” Burberry’s chief creative  said after the show. This outerwear, inspired by Burberry ads from the early Sixties, ranged from the sculptural to the streamlined. Tweeds, herringbones, laquered leather, camel and fur were used for car coats, partly in dark brown and black, but the sun breaked through with the reds, yellow, orange, blue and tangerine. The bold blanket checks looked daring and fresh as did the more sculptural coats from stiffened wools. After such a refreshing collection, the audience didn’t bother the showering rain at the end of the show.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear FW2011 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Dolce & Gabbana-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons keeps on pushing the color-theme at Jil Sander. After two strong, minimalistic springcollections for him and her where he surprised the in all black dressed fashioncrowd with vivid colors and white T-shirts, his winter 2011 collection seems more in balance. He started with a dark suit, which actually was a mix of purple and black, combined with a shirt and sweater. But soon the colors changed into yellow, white, pink, orange and electric blue for total outfits and subtler mixes.

Simons replaced the mens shirt by T-shirts in shiny, bubbly fabrics and presented them in layers which added more volume and a fresh, modern touch to the minimal style.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

After a few strong menswear-seasons with the focus at Italian sartorial craftmanschip, Dolce & Gabbana moved on. They looked at Britain and 80’s style-icon Bryan Ferry, who’s slick style of shiny suits inspired a whole generation of young men back then. I guess Bryan Ferry was happy he grew out of that 80’s style of short, slightly squared jackets, wide lapels and tapered pants while watching the show in a slim suit and accompanied by two of his sons (who looked very smart too). It’s a big step from the handsome and streamlined Italian style we’re used to see at Dolce & Gabbana.

But maybe it’s just a matter of time. The look must seem bright new to a younger generation fed up with skinny pants and jackets. The new silhouette is more square and non fitted, jackets are much shorter and pants got low crotches. For the streetwise styling the designduo looked at British ska’s, with their hats, black and white, suspenders, short pants and shoes. The formal suit was mixed, a jacket with jeans, the pants with striped sweater, velvet with denim, faux fur with wool, pinstripes with pied de poule. There was even a hint of color next to the black and grey, red and bordeaux played a major role. The collection deserved the name Eccentric Tailoring –  only for those who dare.

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