Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

It is the second season April Chrichton is designing the collection for the house of Sonia Rykiel. This spring it’s about bold colors and style, but for next fall it’s less loud, more simple and pared down.  Like the skirtsuits with a kick flare to the skirt, shrunken jackets, jumpers and little black skirts. Shades were mainly black, white and biscuit. For eveningwear the Rykiel-girl shows her flirty side, with floaty dresses, sometimes in sheer black or with puffy little sleeves.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 3, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear

Yes there was plenty of Yamamoto’s signature black, but there was also quite a bit of color. Red and blue accents popped up throughout the whole show, on the clothes but also as a detail in the models’ hair. It made up for a vivid show, which felt refreshing for a Yamamoto winter collection.

The show was about covering up and revealing as warm winter coats and capes were matched with cut out, asymmetrical draped dresses. Besides a punky touch (seen through the hair, the boots and the use of color) the collection had a sporty vibe as well (visible through the jersey fabrics, the duo colored leggings and the fingerless tassled ?! gloves).

Whether heading to the gym or on your way to a nice dinner; these Yamamoto designs will definitely make you stand out. And if not, you can always tie and twist some colorful scarfs around your body for that extra showstopping effect.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 2, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

With all the rumors about Dior he must be under a lot of pressure, but boy did Bill Gaytten show an amazing collection. It might just be his last one, and if so, he’s definitely leaving with his head held high.

Gracefully dressed women walked his runway in soft modern dresses and skirts. Again materials were combined in one look. Like for instance a pink dress with a diagonal leather band on it. Or a woolen embroidered version with a metallic part on the models’ breast. And not to mention those gorgeous evening gowns which had transparent sleeves or fronts and lottts of tule.

Every single design was feminine to the max; accentuated waists, flowing (New Look) skirts and ultra soft shades (nude, rose, burgundy). Also the large necklaces gave the looks extra reason to stand out.

A total of 56 looks may have been a little too much. Yet there wasn’t one look that didn’t belong in this jaw dropping collection. Props for Gayten and fingers crossed he might get to stay at Dior.

 

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Sci Fi Today

The fantastic futurist, Nicolas Ghesquière, revived and reinforced his ever-innovative message. This did not confirm yet the Parisian position as stage for the pioneering and the extreme. Designers seem to stick to their personal profiles rather then wanting to push fashion forward. Balenciaga’s surreal source of inspiration, corporate life, brought him on track of power dressing reminiscent of 70s and 80s. Futurist dressing where challenging proportions team up with not less challenging materials. Bonded fabrics that build exaggerated silhouettes.

Where Milan went for beauty Paris went for power, staging super-heroines, priestesses of techno cult and battle girls.

Balenciaga showed satin sweatshirts with spacey slogans and sci-fi prints as well as flimsy featherweight dresses combining constructing textures creating star war princess looks. At Mugler the historical oeuvre was studied carefully. Super-heroine shoulders in contouring body gloves as well as peplum silhouettes. Gareth Pugh showed rather mutant force then Girl Power in funnel necks jackets with spiked shoulders,

We feel the longing for revolution, the need for groundbreaking novelty. But still the nearest road towards that seems to lead via the past.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 1, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

Although the eruption of flames at the beginning of Rick Owens’ show suggested a sense of black magic, it turned out to be a much lighter and softer show. Dove-grey instead of pitch black, flowing dresses, layers and some great coats. Owens suggested a looser silhouette for dresses and tops that had more flow in their fit. Some of these looks were layered over drop-crotch shorts, which in Owens’ hands, were quite alluring and cool.

He also showed outerwear, including a few formfitting coats and cropped, draped leather jackets.

Rue du Mail Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 1, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear

It was a sporty chic collection, Martine Sitbon presented yesterday, designed for a somewhat ‘androgynous woman with a strong attitude,’ as she told the press.

The sportive part of the show was visible through the use of color (lots of different colored sleeves), the silhouettes (baseball jacket shapes), the materials (jerseys and knits) and the details (lots of zippers). Chic were the black & white knits, the macramé lace, the laser-cut bouclé and the silk bright colored dresses that closed the show.

There were some tricky parts of the collection though. The cutouts can easily become very tacky and the same goes for the red watercolor print. Just as long as the Rue du Mail women keep their looks on the sporty side, they have nothing to worry about. Even better, next fall they’ll be all the rage.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 1, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

The models at Ann Demeulemeester’s show wore a wild crown of hair, blades and black feathers. They had long leather gloves on their arms and black leather pants that melted into long boots. There was lots of black leather and velvet, but more inbteresting was the inky, midnight blue color. The collection had powerful outerwear and dark elegant dresses — worked in variations and fabrics rich with dimension. Tailored jackets and trenches came cut up into asymmetrical folds with sculpted collars. Long, lean dresses were simple aside from a single drape at the neckline or back. This was surely a tough, graceful women.

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 1, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

At Mugler, the creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sébastien Peigné,  linked directly to Thierry Mugler. Their point of reference was the designer’s 1997 “insects” couture collection, with supermodels in patent leather and bug-eyed masks. It resulted in a subtle translation  like in the pattern of a black and white dress with super-sized shoulders and glossy black croc appliqués on a sheer form-fitting dress.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 1, 2012 by  
Filed under Events, Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, womenswear

The black confetti surely gave the show of Gareth Pugh a moody edge. Not that he needed this, since his collections always reflect a dark, mysterious mood. Somehow Pugh let go of his fetish looks and toned things down. There was lots of leather, fur and a contrast of volume. Appealing were the  fuzzy black fur coat that opened the show plus the sharp-shouldered dresses with a leather bodice and a full fur skirt. Luckily Gareth Pugh didn’t forget to put some drama ans exaggeration in his presentation, that’s what a show also is about.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

March 1, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear

Busy seventies prints and warm winter shades were in the mix at Rochas. Inspired by the pottery of the Swedish ceramicist Wilhelm Kage designer Marco Zanini created outstanding winter looks, which, some say, balanced on the verge of becoming ugly yet stayed graceful and gorgeous.

A printed – green and off white – dress was matched with a sixties geometric printed coat in the same green and purple. A beautiful knit skirt and matching, belted sweater formed a great winter duo. A shiny pair of metallic pants and skirt looked like the finest PJ’s. And a mustard ribbed sweater matched with pants in another yellow shade looked odd, but cool.

It was the combination of cosy knits and metallic kaleidoscopic prints that made this collection unique. The warm shades (purple, bronze, ink blue, mustard yellow) that make us long for winter, even though we’re very looking forward to summertime.

Zanini maybe presented his looks in a scruffy way; in real life these midlength skirts, silk tops, jacquard pants and heeled sandals can be some serious showstoppers.

 

 

 

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