Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

February 16, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion

There was some Soviet influence in the fall-collection Calvin Klein presented. It was visible in the distinct military details, especially with the first few suits and dresses. Mostly in black and navy, they came in a faint plaid with vinyl inserts. Designer Costa made a powerful statement with lots of leather, accentuated shoulders on tailored pieces and several oversize silhouettes in stiffer fabrics. He countered this almost workmanlike sensibility with sexy bandeau tops that were wrapped in the back.

Calvin Klein Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

January 13, 2013 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Milan

For fall Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli brought a piece back to life that has been a fashion no-go for quite a few years. He reinvented the utility vest and reintroduced it quilted and with multiple pockets (which men should NOT use to actually put anything in). Models sported the vest combined with sweaters and even worn over suit jackets and woolen coats. Sweaters were given a sporty structured, slightly futuristic touch and were matched with pants in the same shade, from burgundy and grey to black and blue. Sober, sporty and success guaranteed.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

September 14, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

Francisco Costa closed New York fashion week with a collection that had a strong sexual vibe. He opened with a black satin conical bustier dress, the model’s belle poitrine outlined in silver. All signs pointed to the bust as this collection’s erogenous zone. But Costa didn’t ignore the waist or the legs, either. Peplums played a starring role, and narrow belts accented most of the looks.
Costa also played with fabric, adding a white lining to the black mesh he used for a skirtsuit which produced a vibrating moiré effect.

Calvin Klein Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

June 25, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Milan

The most important parts of American sportswear gave designer Italo Zucchelli inspiration for his Calvin Klein collection. The T-shirts, jeans jackets, chinos and shorts, they all came with a technical or luxury spin. Expect a come back of stone washed jeans, boxy jackets, carrot-shaped pants and T-shirts in nylon mesh. The surfer florals were the only variation, on shorts, shirts and suits.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW 2012

February 17, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear

The idea of real strength was the central theme for Francisco Costa and his  fall collection for Calvin Klein. The designer was inspired by Bauhaus and the Bauhaus woman of the 1920s.  The result was  subtle with clothes in ultra-feminine silhouettes starting with a black wool mohair A-line coat cinched at the waist with a wide silver belt. Another example came with the cropped burnt-orange cashmere sweater worn over a matching shift dress.

Costa used thick wools for coats, but also for some dresses, which looked a bit heavy. Better were the black dresses mixed with leather, sometimes it was just an insert, another time is was the back, or a skirt.  The overall effect was powerful, but the clothes also had a softer side: ladylike and charming, even with a Fifties couture touch.

Calvin Klein Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012

January 16, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Milan

Inspired by New York Italo Zucchelli came up with a strong collection which felt quite sportive. He designed nylon sweaters and hoodies/jackets with croc leather detailing. He created loose fitting pants, thick leather jackets, water resistant parkas, sporty body warmers and structured Tees worn over long-sleeves.

The clothes looked comfy and his XL-coats and enormous capes looked like they could bare any kind of winter weather condition. No, the Calvin Klein man won’t get cold very easily in those layered looks.

And though some of the designs (and the palette ranging from camel to black) seemed a bit too classic, those cashmeres, alpacas, mohairs, leathers, and alligator will suit the modern CK man just fine.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

June 19, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Milan

Calvin Klein was quite what we expected. Clean wearable looks in plain colors, this time with a very sporty vibe. Sporty pants were mixed with tank tops, polo’s and T-shirts. All perfectly color-coordinated in shades of white, grey, yellow and black (incl. the socks and the shoes).

Fabrics were sheer and shiny, with sporty details like lines and zippers. Everything looked perfectly constructed and none of the looks seemed to be trying to hard. Like a white suit jacket mixed with shorts (worn just over the knee) and a simple pair of jeans with a casual black T-shirt. A shiny short black jacket with a straight pair of black pants and a long jacket combined with a waist belt.

We will have to get used to the (look-a-like) safety glasses and the sequined tops, but the rest of the collection will definitely be an instant hit.

 

 

 

 

Trend Report SS2011: minimal effort, major success

April 19, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, womenswear

This season too, you can look terrific without looking like you’ve spend hours in front of the mirror. Yes, we’re talking about the minimalistic look which is still a big trend in fashion. This season besides Chloe, Celine and Calvin Klein other brands have joined in on the fun as well. Derek Lam, Isabel Marant and Jil Sander all opted for the less is more look in their spring/summer collections.

And the great twist of this season is color. So after the minimalistic white, nude and black, there’s the minimal red, yellow, pink and even turquoise. The rest of the minimalistic rules remain the same though; clean cuts, no prints, straight lines and no extra fuzz (cutouts, frills, ruffles, bows etc).

Looking chic was never this easy…

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

February 18, 2011 by  
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear

The Calvin Klein fall-collection was loosely based on Mod styles — shift-dresses, trapeze shapes, A-line skirts— but not exactly. Everything shown was done in quiet colors:  wheat, gray, white, a little black. It looked fresh and young, but luckily didn’t have that cute factor to which a swinging Sixties-inspiration can often lead. This was a grown up Mod-style, minimalistic with longer lengths and luxurious fabrics sometimes with a little texture. The silhouette looked looser and softer, there was a focus on volume and proportion play.

A lot of energy went in developing high-tech fabrics, like the thick silk twill that looked like liquid cardboard on cigarette pants, and the silk ribbon jacquard that had a fuzzy, matted finish on a two-piece sheath.

Gareth Pugh Video Fashion Paris SS2011

September 30, 2010 by  
Filed under Fashion, Paris, womenswear

For now the British designer Gareth Pugh sticks with video to present his collection. Not that it’s cheaper or saves time, but it makes him show and express his collection in the way he wants it.

Every now and then a designer is experimenting with video. Those clips are great to watch, but it somehow leaves you unsatisfied. It’s the tension in the room, the music, the smell of clothes and  everything that gets together during a show that creates that special vibe. But anyway, Pugh made a wonderful 11 minutes videoclip starring Kirsten McMenamy. Filmmaker Ruth Hogben was responsible for the short movie and in an interview with the International Herald Tribune she said: “I was completely led by Gareth’s designs. I try to make a representation of every piece of fabric, every shape and sculpture. I am trying to convey Gareth’s world. I play with scale, physically some parts are quite claustrophobic. There is a lot of freedom, depth and space — a vast, endless infinity of the world.”

Nick Knight, who will present the video at www.SHOWstudio.com, is a great instignator of fashion on film. In the IHT he explained why: “Firstly, it is a true artistic expression that the designers can control,” he said. “Secondly they can get so many more people, from 300 to three million. And because — although it hasn’t happened yet — designers will want to sell their clothes.”

The collection is built around modular jackets, rubberized neoprene, stretch silk jersey and high-tech effects of geometric silicone pattern and digitally printed clothes. It is possible to order the garments directly while watching the video online.

(Pictures: Gareth Pugh Lookbook)

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