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Iris van Herpen Couture Collection Paris FW2012

With the presentation of her fall-winter 2012 collection during Paris couture-week Iris van Herpen proved that couture is really a platform for creativity. She keeps testing the limits with her creations, and no one on day one of the three-day-long couture calendar came anywhere near to pushing the envelope as far as Iris van Herpen.

What to think of a halter-dress made from what appeared to be a distended skeleton? Or the shiny black tubes that enveloped another mini-dress? Van Herpen presented old and new work, but it all morphs easily into one collection, the difference lies into the techniques, use of fabrics and themes. But what stays is her impressive dark techno style that’s original, exciting and fresh.

Jan Taminiau Couture Collection Paris FW2012

Dutch designer Jan Taminiau seemed to be the first designer to kick off Haute Couture week in Paris, unofficially that is. While everybody was awaiting the Dior couture-show (is there already a new designer?), Jan prepared his collection quietly. Nature Extends is the name of the collection, that was an unusual mix of cork and rich, flowing materials like chiffon. The fabrics and materials were sculpted into long, dramatic high collared dresses and tight suits. Colors changed from silver sequins into gray, taupe, brown/yellow.

Menswear Trend Report SS2011: Checks Please!

Checks are always present in the new menswear collections and this season was no exception. From D&G to Hermes, Dries van Noten, Kenzo, Viktor & Rolf and Versace; all used checks in their spring/summer 2011 collections.

D&G placed them on their summer blouses, Dsquared, Hermes and John Richmond opted for a checked shirt and Versace, Zegna and Dries van Noten presented checked tailored suit jackets.

Though the completely checked look can be too much for anyone who doesn’t work in fashion, you certainly can’t go wrong with just one checked item. Go for some large checks (this seems to be the trend this season) and complete your look by adding clean one-colored items.

Check out our gallery above for some inspiration.

Round Up Paris/Milan Menswear SS2012

Responding to the shout out for creative design, as cited by Suzy Menkes in International Herald Tribune, we proceed like cherry pickers this season. Heading for fun and unexpected novelty we picked out the more juicy and snappy influences. Starting with the ETHNIC, here as a proven of artisanal excellence by Burberry Prorsum. Stating the omnipresence of THE DEEP BLUE, the most-favoured shade of the season (Dries van Noten). Happily shaken up by mashed up CHECKS as masterly executed by Raf Simons. Soothed by relaxed SANDBLASTED Sahara tailoring (Salvatore Ferragamo) appealing to our sense for well being. To conclude with the big bouncer, a fun feel for ECCENTRIC, with which Prada, amongst others, keeps up the spirit.

ETHNIC

Tribal pattern meets sporty elegance. Military tailoring adds detail to most minimal silhouettes. The story is mainly about pattern and finishing. Maasai warriors line up with modern day happy hippies. In warm earth and spice tones mingled with happy brights. The Burberry Prorsum collection is exemplary and celebrates its artisan roots.

 

THE DEEP BLUE

The international catwalks were flooded with deep, dense blue. Some items gleaming in wet look surfaces where others more natural and relaxed. Tension in graduated toning and shading as well as in texture where structure meets softness and natural meets high-tech. Roomy parkas and trench coats come in silks as well as nylon and sporty shorts layer long pants.

 

CHECKS

Checks serve the feel for pattern and print. From classic tartans and plaids at Gaultier, intricate kinetic patchwork at Raf Simons to slim silhouettes in black and white 60s mod checks at Gucci. Moncler Gamme Blue speeds up towards a more racy and sporty flow.

 

SANDBLASTED

Travelling south to Côte d’Azur while heading for Sahara desert. Safari and utilitarian jackets and pants with khaki as a key color. Jackets are belted and pants are wide at Salvatore Ferragamo. YSL presents some surprising placed lace-up details. Fabrics are plain and natural in pure cotton and linen looks.

 

ECCENTRIC

Think American tourists playing golf in the 50s. A touch of Hawaii and American retro with a fun dose of bad taste. Tailored, double-breasted suits mismatch with loud clashing floral printed shirts or pants. Western shirts embellished with rhinestones, recall memories of young Elvis. Prada and Kenzo spice up there ranges with funky, colourful accessories

 

 

SPORTSWEAR

The Olympics next year seem to have energised the runway shows and positioned sport at the heart of fashion. Outdoor inspiration leads to functional garments with a utilitarian foundation. Hiking, fishing, sailing and hunting as well as golf, all fuelled with a healthy dose of irony. Mesh serves as a key fabric look at both Dolce & Gabbana and Moncler Gamme Bleu.

 

FOULARD

This will become big! Celine was the one to set off with foulard prints last season, with Prada in her footsteps starring panel printed monkeys and bananas. Now time is ripe for a true 80’s Versace revival of loud head to toe decorative foulard patterns as staged by D&G. Brave, bold and baroque. It concludes in a look reminiscent of muscle boys as photographed by Bruce Weber and Herb Ritts in the 80’s.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

The Lanvin men’s collection for ss2012 continues the search for the perfect suit, jacket and shirt. With references to armywear, sportswear, formal wear and oriental dressing Lucas Ossendrijver presented a his famous casual, sensual yet dressed style. With less and less details, sometimes stripped to the fabric only. There were minimalistic raincoats, wider pants, strict jackets in shiny leather and featherlight sheer pants. The use of layers gave it all a relaxed character.

Colors were kept natural, except for a series of suits which came in red, yellow, purple and blue.

Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Raf Simons’ own ss2012 collection was well balanced. A tailored black suit was the canvas on which the Belgian designer build his minimalistic vision, with roomy coats (and some tunics)  in mismatched checks or pastel-colors, sleeveless leather T-shirts, sleeveless knits with a small flower-print or shirts in contrasting black & white.

Especially the colorful checks added an upbeat character to this strict and minimal collection.

Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Kris van Assche continued to celebrate the art of tailoring at the Dior Homme-collection. The ss2012 collection looked plain & minimal but oh so luxurious.

Shirts and tapered trousers came in natural linen and were trimmed in lambskin. Trenches appeared in powdery silk taffeta. Jackets were the stars of this precise and youthful collection, from handsome double-breasted numbers to roomy shirt-like and tunic styles, often closed at the throat and flaring open. The black hats. shoes and leather wristbands were the only contrasting details.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

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