Summertrend 2012: the wet look

Alexander Wang, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Thierry Mugler, Giambattista Valli, Chanel,  Prabal Gurung, Yves Saint Laurent. All these designers had the same thing in mind when it came to the hair trend for this season: soaking-wet hair.  It’s one of the biggest hair trends  on the radar for this summer.

For a few seasons it was all about natural hair en easy looks, but for this summer the designers changed course and seemed to be inspired by this grungy-look. The wetter the hair, the better. Make it as shiny and greasy as you can and comb your hair in the front all backwards. You can wear it loose and a bit messy and casual (Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs) or really tight and in a chic sidepart (Chanel).

You have to have some guts to wear your hair like this. But if you do, you might do some shopping now, because this looks requires loads of hair gel.

(Eva Dusch)

Streetstyle Icon: Caroline Issa

A few years ago nobody really knew who she was, except for the fact that this modest woman always looked stunning. Nowadays, Caroline Issa, publisher and fashion director at Tank magazine and Becauselondon, is everywhere. You spot her a thousand times on many blogs and websites, fashion lovers adore her style and all the designers want her front row. In a short amount of time this British lady (but her mother is half Chinese, her father half Lebanese- half Iranian) developed herself as a true streetstyle favorite, just like she is to us. Come to think that Caroline once studied entrepreneurship and strategy, far far away from anything fashion.

So what about her style? She’s no Anna Dello Russo or Lady Gaga. Caroline’s style is way more sophisticated and humble, but still always strong and elegant. She easily manages it to look feminine and sexy without overdressing and she perfectly knows how to translate trends into her own style. She often pairs here outfits with some edgy shades and her famous red lips.  But what she does share with the first named ladies is that she can wear anything, and without losing her own characteristic style. Just take a look…

(Eva Dusch)

Summertrend 2012: embrace your femininity

Blossomed, pencil, pleated, patterned, maxi, mini… For this summer female elegance is all about the skirt. But there’s only one that’s the star of the show this season: the over-the-knee skirt.

The classic skirt with the below-knee hemline, who had his highest point in the fifties, is making a huge comeback this season and has a key-role in many collections. Donna Karan, Burberry, Erdem, Jonathan Saunders, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Celine, Dolce&Gabanna, Chloé, Hermès, they all showed their own version of this evergreen. And the message seems clear: embrace your femininity, which results in body- con, pencil skirts on one hand or wide swing skirts on the other hand. This last one is probably the most popular one: high waisted and blossoming, preferably pleated, pastel colored and made out of silk or cotton.

How to wear it? Combine it with a classic blouse, or some chunky knitwear to give it some more edge. Even a baseball jacket could work, to give it an unusual twist and make it less girly.

Just take a look at these catwalk pictures or at all these women we’ve spotted on the street wearing this classic piece. Enough inspiration, we would say.

(Eva Dusch)

Summertrend 2012: no fuss

Still going strong: minimalism. Although less than previous seasons, minimalistic designs are still doing well on the catwalk these days. While romanticism, femininity and retro glamor is gaining ground in the world of fashion -even designers known for their minimal approach are experimenting with romantic elements-, clean, simple and sculptural shapes are still one of our favorites. Why?  Because we love the strong lines and shapes, the less is more attitude, the daring and uncommon forms, the humbleness and timeless character of the clothing.  Because we adore the strong, boxy jackets at Balenciaga, the clean-cut silhouette at Celine, the pointy shoulders and perfectly fitting, body-hugging dresses at Lanvin and the ultra simple but feminine Jil Sander dresses.

This trend works for almost every woman, no matter size or shape. And all these designers proved once more that minimalistic can be sexy and feminine too. And honestly, they make a great exception between all the girly flowers, pastels and fifties dresses that are already hanging in our closet, don’t you think?

(Eva Dusch)

Streetstyle-icon: Taylor Tomasi Hill

Taylor Tomasi Hill, no doubt you’ve seen her many times around during fashion month. Or on countless street style blogs, because this American lady, known because of her fierce red hair as for her work as the style and accessories director for US Marie Claire (not anymore though!), has become an absolute favorite of many streetstyle photographers and a real style- icon for many fashion lovers. And rightly so, because although she has a really distinctive style (feminine but always with an edgy and playful touch to it), you never really know what to expect from her. But one thing’s for sure: she has some fine taste.

Taylor describes herself as a ‘clothing chameleon’ (there’s truly no better word for it), because her style is evolving all the time, which keeps her interesting for all the photographers. Effortlessly, she mixes very feminine pieces with more mannish elements.

Last year she has left her post at Marie Claire and became the brand new artistic director for the retail site Moda Operandi in New York, so luckily we keep seeing her around during the fashion weeks, because she’s a true pleasure to watch and get inspired by.  Just take a look at some of her most stunning outfits…

(Eva Dusch)

Summertrend 2012: Crisp White

Between the cloud burst of pastels and heavy prints, there’s another huge trend we cannot ignore this season: white.  It’s the color of innocence, softness and purity, but it ain’t all that for this summer.  This season we see the classic non- color in many different variations and shades. A whole bunch of designers try to give it a modern twist, by using it in a minimalistic way, presenting all-white looks in strong lines and shapes. Like the sculpted skirts, dresses and coats at Jil Sander and Celine.

Or what about crisp white mixed with sporty elements? They always make a great combination. Alexander Wang, Vera Wang and Stella McCartney showed us once more how and why these two work very well together, using airy, casual fabrics and loose-fitting forms. Or like Sportmax, showing a drawstring waist.

Others used this particular essence of white just so to emphasize the feminine en softness of their collection, like Louis Vuitton, John Galliano, Chloé and Emilio Pucci, showing dresses with gentle lines in white lace, tulle and brocade.

Which style do you prefer?

(Eva Dusch)

Round Up Milan Womenswear FW2012

Milan was all about beauty and redefining feminine presence. The importance of womanhood translated into powerful design. Reports noted clear, modern sensibility and elegance rooted in the classic past, but applied to today’s woman. From linear, architectural statements to rock and roll romance, from virtual princess looks, to pre-Raphaelite twists and martial arts references. Inspiration was well documented and there seems a clear wish to find the context behind these hybrid collections. Where New York mixed identities Milan reinforced them. We spotted impeccable tailoring, love for crafts and embellishment, sublime couture and a daring choice of materials inspired by the wish to tap into the duality of the 21^st century woman.

Prada was much more then just ORIENTALIST, with a vibrant collection with strong contrast and  sharp & graphic silhouettes. In these outfits we see a glint of the well spread oriental inspiration shining though with opulent, high tech embellishment. Marni also joined this direction.

 

Many designers explored a dark color palette, but the DARK VISION of Dolce & Gabbana was at the same time an Italianate vision of palazzo life. They showed, as Bottega Veneta and Aquilano.Rimondi did, a more costume message.

 

Sportmax explored details in martial arts dress forms and applied these to a TECHNO FORWARD collection, combining natural and tech materials with retro futurist flavor. As did Fendi and Max Mara.

 

Raf Simons at Jil Sander was one of the designers for whom it was ALL ABOUT BEAUTY, both impeccably tailored and meltingly soft. Bottega Veneta presented a more powerful woman, but also beautiful in every detail.

 

Missoni, Roberto Cavalli and Fendi showed their NATURALIST character by applying their masterful crafts to nature’s textures, weaving an urban wardrobe out of wood, stone, fur, tree bark, and mica-sparkled minerals.

Milan’s collections where strong, spirited and powerful.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2012 Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

There were several really great aspects of the Gianfranco Ferre show today, inspired by Helmut Newton’s photography.

1. Designers Frederico Piaggi and Stefano Citron chose the most stunning shades, from deep emerald green to beautiful burgundy.

2. They opted for strong, architectural looks, which made the models look elegant and confident.

3. They, as did many other Italian designers, played with texture in a modern way.

With a focus on cut the designers created the most original, asymmetric looks. They emphasized the models’ waists by lines or belts and gave the girls more appearance by adding multiple collars.

Unexpected shapes and thick unflattering materials gave the collection a daring allure, which very well fits with today’s trends. Piaggi and Citron may be new at the Italian fashion house; with this collection they surely are on the right track.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

The fall-collection of Roberto Cavalli is, well, a classic Cavalli: glamorous and strong, with lots of leather and fur. It started with maxi fur ballgown skirts with sequin luxe T-shirts and feathered baseball caps all in one look. Then came elbow-length gloves and little puffy skirts on little halter dresses strewn with sequins and beads and more baseball caps to go with it all. It had a more grunge feeling then last season. The biggest surprise however, was Naomi Campbell who closed the show.

 

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