Bill Cunningham, streetfashion-photographer

Bill Cunningham, the New York (street)fashion-photographer died yesterday at the age of 87. He turned fashion photography into his own branch of cultural anthropology on the streets of New York. For years he chronicled the ever-changing social scene for The New York Times on what people wore — stylishly, flamboyantly or just plain sensibly. Cunningham had been hospitalized recently after having a stroke.

You could not miss Bill Cunningham easily on the streets of the fashion-cities. He was easy to spot, riding his bicycle, his body draped in his utilitarian blue French worker’s jacket, khaki pants and black sneakers and with his 35-millimeter camera slung around his neck.
Nothing escaped him: not the fanny packs, not the Birkin bags, not the gingham shirts, not the fluorescent biker shorts. Cunningham worked nearly 40 years for The New York Times.

At the Pierre hotel on the East Side of Manhattan, he pointed his camera at tweed-wearing blue-blood New Yorkers with names like Rockefeller and Vanderbilt. Downtown, by the piers, he clicked away at crop-top-wearing Voguers. Up in Harlem, he jumped off his bicycle for B-boys in low-slung jeans. In the process, he turned into something of a celebrity himself.

In 2008, Mr. Cunningham went to Paris, where the French government honored him with the Legion of Honor.
In 2010, a documentary, “Bill Cunningham New York,” premiered at the Museum of Modern Art to glowing reviews.
Yet Mr. Cunningham told nearly anyone who asked about it that the attendant publicity was a total hassle, a reason for strangers to approach and bother him. He wanted to find subjects, not be the subject. He wanted to observe, rather than be observed.

He didn’t go to the movies. He didn’t own a television. He ate breakfast nearly every day at the Stage Star Deli on West 55th Street, where a cup of coffee and a sausage, egg and cheese could be had, until very recently, for under $3. He lived until 2010 in a studio above Carnegie Hall amid rows and rows of file cabinets, where he kept all of his negatives. He slept on a single-size cot, showered in a shared bathroom and, when he was asked why he spent years ripping up checks from magazines like Details (which he helped Annie Flanders launch in 1982), he said: “Money’s the cheapest thing. Liberty and freedom is the most expensive.”
We all will miss him. He was an example for us streetfashion-photographers: patient, friendly, with a good and loving eye for the subject.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2017, Day 3

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2017, Day 2

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2017, Day 1

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Streetfashion at Gerrit Rietveld Graduationshow 2016

What are they wearing during international fashion events? That vintage Levi’s or their latest Diesel jeans? During the year we refresh our streetwear posts irregularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Gerrit Rietveld Academie Graduationshow 2016.

Gerrit Rietveld Academie: The Fashion Show 2016

The section Fashion of the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam presented their graduation-collections in The Fashion Show 2016 in the big commercial venue RAI. Personal. Experimental. Crossing borders.

MENSWEAR TREND ss2016: Legs on Display

Attention fit guys, it’s time to put those legs to work. Short shorts are all the rage according to hot labels Dries van Noten, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. So let’s raise those hemlines (and raise a glass to it)! Now there are loads of options. You can go super short (hot pants-y) in tie die denim (as seen at Gucci). Sophisticated in a silky smooth Marilyn Monroe printed version (by Dries van Noten) or banana printed co-ord (by Louis Vuitton). Cheerful in multi colored checks (Missoni-style) or tough in a leather on leather ensemble (by Prada). Business chic in a pleated, woolen number (without that checked handkerchief on your head) like Raf Simons suggested. Or patchwork chic as shows by Junya Watanabe. Leave little to the imagination in a loincloth designed by Vivienne Westwood or opt for shorts that appear like skirts covered with Jesus portrait hyped by Givenchy. Whether rolled up, tucked in, hand cut or gracefully draped; your shorts are bound to make the style statement this season. Kanye’s ‘all chest no legs’ doesn’t apply here. Reveal at the bottom, cover up at the top. Time to hit the gym and work on those (sexy) legs!

P.S. for those who prefer a little more cover up we’ve prepared a trend report on longer shorts including the likes of Balmain, Etro and Dolce & Gabbana. Read it here Just Drop It. (You’re welcome).

AMFI Transit Graduationshow 2016

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

HKU Graduation show 2016

The Fashion Graduation Show of Hogeschool vd Kunsten Utrecht is one of the annual highlights during the Graduation period of presentations at HKU. The edition of 2016 took place in an industrial setting under the building of Hoog Catharijne. The collections were varied and very outspoken. Most collections had one thing in common: the layered silhouettes.And they were also very wearable. Laure Meyers and Suzanne Barten presented a refined and feminine image. The outspoken and striped coats of Yasmina Ajbilou covered neat, long shirts and told the story of where rebellion and limitations meet.
Malu Versteeg and Marleen van Egmond developed their own knitwear. In the womenswear collection of Malu big, finely knit turtlenecks with transparent parts were the centerpieces. The men in Marleens ‘Modification of Time’ were wearing cable knit sweaters and pants.
Wendy Cornelis transferred her research in material and sustainability into a womenswear-collection with big silhouettes. Laura Meijering made her sustainable collection in quiet colors and simple, long silhouettes, the excitement though came by fraying all materials to the thread as a comment to holding on to your stuff.

Backstage at INDIVIDUALS SS2017

Take a look backstage at the show of Individuals yesterday. Models are getting ready for the runway. Make up: check. Hair: check. Shoes: check. Accessories: check. Outfit: check. Ready. Set. Go!

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